Monday, April 26, 2010

Monday, 26 April 2010

I am sitting on my verandah, watching the clouds pass over in a clear blue sky, enjoying the fresh lively breezes.

Fortunately and unfortunately, I am not on the Queen Mary 2, but back in the garden at home in Tucson!

Over the next few days I will start daily postings going back to last Monday when the Eurodam docked in Rome.  Although the Icelandic volcanic caused a lot of upheaval and complications, including my not being able to get from Rome to London and thus having to cancel my return transatlatic voyage, things were not as bad as they could have been.  After all, money can solve a lot of problems (I guess that's good and bad too).
Although Rome has never been one of my favorite cities, I did enjoy three wonderful days of spectacular weather, great food, and just enough wine to keep me from too much anxiety. 

But I will gave all the details in later postings.  For now I just want everyone to know that I am safely home again.

Friday, April 23, 2010


Cunard's hms Queen Mary 2

  • Length:     1,132 feet
  • Beam:      135 feet
  • Height (Keel to Funnel):     236.2 feet
  • Gross Tonnage:     151,400 gross tonnes
  • Guest Capacity:     2,592 lower berths
  • Crew:     1,253
  • Cruise Speed:     28.5 Knots
  • Strength:     Extra thick steel hull for strength and stability 
  • Cost:     $800 million

Premium Balcony Staterooms offer 269 sq. ft. including a panoramic hull balcony with loungers and tables. King-size bed may be converted to twins and a dual height coffee table may be used for en suite dining.

Monday, April 19, 2010

Monday, 19 April 2010

I am at a hotel at the Rome airport and tomorrow morning I transfer to a hotel in Rome (might as well enjoy it while I'm here).  There is the slightest chance I will be able to fly from Rome to London via Brussels on Wednesday (in time to make the Queen Mary), but most probably I will just fly home to the US on Friday.

So my next blog entry will be in a few days, either direct from the Queen Mary or from back home.  What an ordeal--but at least I have a bed here and don't have to camp out at the airport.

Keep your fingers crossed for me.  You can contact Will (willfeathers@comcast.net) if you want the latest information.

Larry

Saturday, April 17, 2010

Saturday, 17 April 2010


Let’s see; where was I? Oh yes, another sail-away, this time from Barcelona. Of course, the big question is will I make it to London in time to sail on the Queen Mary 2 on Thursday. The Rome airport has re-opened (that is good), and planes will be taking off for North America. But the airports in northern Europe, including Britain, are still closed, (so that’s bad). I will try to post another blog on Sunday, but after that I may be silent for a few days since I don’t know what kind of power options will be available for my laptop. I may have to conserve battery life in case I need to contact airlines, travel agents, Cunard, etc. So keep all your fingers crossed for me. I’m having dinner in the Pinnacle Grill again tonight, and at 10:30 the Grand Dessert Extravaganza begins outdoors by the Lido Deck pool. Perhaps if I stuff myself enough and keep drinking enough wine I won’t worry too much about the transportation issues.

Friday Morning:  Ibiza at last

One of the delights of travelling by ship is entering beautiful harbors in various parts of the world. The sea entry to Ibiza is particularly stunning, as we first pass the island of Formentera, the smallest of the Balearics, and then approach the hillside of the old city of Ibiza itself. It’s Ibiza “at last,” because I had made plans to spend some time here way back in 1995. But one meal in Portugal—I think it was the fish in Cascais—didn’t agree with me and I cut that trip short and returned home without getting to Ibiza. In all my years of travelling it was the only time that has ever happened.

The irony is that once we are docked Ibiza itself is somewhat disappointing. The Alt Ville, built up the sides of the hill leading to the old fortress, is charming, but the rest of the island seems to consist entirely of poorly designed and crassly built tourist high-rises. The world’s largest disco is still here and during the high season in July and August hosts eight to ten thousand sweaty bodies every night. Right now the beaches and clubs are deserted, so at least it is easy to get around. I visit two smaller villages on the south side of the island, Sant Josep and Sant Antoni de Portmany, where the lemon trees give fruit four times a year. The same tree will contain four different stages of maturity at the same time. Back at home, our lemon tree produces fruit only once every other year.

Friday Dinner:

• Selected charcuteri
• Escarole, mushroom, and romaine salad with Italian dressing
• Grilled shrimp over radicchio and mixed greens
• Chocolate ice cream



Friday, April 16, 2010

Friday, 16 April 2010


It’s 6 pm and we are just pulling away from the pier in Ibiza. Although there are still a couple of hours until sunset, the sky ahead of us is starting to turn pink behind the fluffy clouds stretched across the blue sky. We are sailing northward, running parallel to the east coast of the island, getting wonderful close-up views of the rugged cliffs that line the shore, interrupted by small coves and beaches, and the one or two small towns that harbor most of the island’s infamous nightlife.

Ports and Tenders

The original itinerary for the cruise called for tender use in three ports. But, in fact, we are only tendering in one (Portimão), and I described that in an earlier entry. The plus of docking rather than tendering is avoiding uncomfortable, crowded, choppy rides across the harbors. The negative is that the new, larger docks are usually farther away from the center of each city. So it’s either a shuttle bus (for which they charge $5.00 each way), a taxi, or a very long walk.

But no matter how I get ashore and back on the ship, I am still 24 hours behind on the blog.

Thursday Morning: Almería and Andalusia

There’s a light drizzle this morning as the tour bus leaves for Cabo de Gata National Park and Lighthouse and another “white” village, Nijar. The drive through the countryside to Cabo de Gata shows off a stark landscape of hills and seashore (a favorite location for filming westerns), and the rain tapers off as we drive up the curving road that hugs to the shore and leads to the lighthouse.

A visit to the first white village, Obidos (in Portugal) was breathtaking; a visit to the second, Vejer de la Frontera, was beautiful; but by the time I get to villages numbers three, four, and five, they are beginning to look the same. I can probably mix up my photographs and no one, including me, would ever know the difference. But Nijar is a lovely place to wander and browse the small craft shops and bakeries. When we return to Almería, I spend a couple of hors walking through the older parts of the city. There isn’t very much of interest, however. Almería serves mainly as a gateway to Granada, but since I’ve been there twice, I forgo the nine-hour excursion.

Thursday Afternoon: Sailing from Almería

The highlight of the day, actually, is the fantastic 180º turn the ship makes in order to leave this very narrow port. As we pivot to the starboard side, a tanker docked at the pier opposite us seems to be barely feet away from the bow of the Eurodam, and I am sure we are going to have to back up, turn, and try again—just like getting out of a tight parallel parking spot. But the captain knows his stuff and although we come within spitting distance of the other ship, we glide by, make the turn on one try, and head out into the Mediterranean.

Thursday Dinner:

• Gravalax with sweet honey mustard
• Chilled melon bisque (not to be confused with the chilled berry soup from last night)
• Sliced pork loin with potatoes and vegetables
Sachertorte and decaf

I try a new wine—a Malbec (Diseño Winery, Argentina 2008)—and Anthony decants it into a crystal swan decanter (not really necessary for a wine of recent vintage, but the shape of the decanter allows air to circulate through the wine very quickly, and I think Anthony enjoys the procedure).

The big news at dinner is that the lady with the sequined hat is back—although tonight the sequins are gold instead of emerald green.
Thursday, 15 April 2010


It looks like that Icelandic eruption has stalled all air flights across northern Europe. I hope things get settled by Monday, when I fly from Rome to London. In the meantime I shall just relish the pleasures of travelling by ship.

Wednesday in Cádiz

Today’s excursion goes to two Andalusian villages: Cornil de la Frontera, an upscale seaside resort, and Vejer de la Frontera, a typical hilltop “white” village. Before returning to the ship, we also visit the National Park that contains the Trafalgar Monument, a memorial to the great naval battle that Spain and France lost to Britain. After we return to Cádiz, I spend the afternoon wandering in the Old City.  Although there are no "must-see" monuments or museums in Cádiz (which explains why Michelin gives it only one star), there are wonderful curving lanes, housefronts adorned with potted flowers, and caged birds singing from all directions.

Passing Gibraltar


The Eurodam passes through the Straits of Gibraltar tonight, staying close to the shore of Africa. I can see lights in the distance, but otherwise it is too dark and the winds too rough to see much beyond the other ships travelling through the Straits. It’s a somewhat rough passage, but it is usual for the winds and currents to be turbulent as the Atlantic and Mediterranean meet. By 8:30 pm as we emerge from the Straits, the ship already feels more steady and smooth.

Wednesday Dinner: Third Formal Night

• Jumbo shrimp cocktail
• Chilled mixed berry soup, with crème fraiche
• Lobster tail in drawn butter sauce, with potatoes and vegetables
• Strawberry ice cream

Thursday: Almería and Andalusia

Thursday morning we dock in Almeria to explore the southwestern portion of Andalusia, but now it’s time for me to explore dreamland.



 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Vejer
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Vejer
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Cornil
 

Wednesday, April 14, 2010

Wednesday, 14 April 2010


The past two days have been really busy—touring from Portimão and Cádiz—so I have a lot of catching up to do. Like Tristram Shandy the more I write the farther behind I get.

Monday Dinner

• Citrus fruit cocktail—diced apple, orange slices, and one small piece of grapefruit
• Bell pepper and tomato bisque—spiced with cumin and coriander
• Grilled chicken breast with vegetables and potatoes—the chicken was beautifully grilled but coated with a little too much rosemary
• Burgundy cherry ice cream—one of my favorites

Monday Evening: Weather Warning from the Captain

The captain’s announcement that we may not be able to go ashore tomorrow in Portimão has everyone in a tizzy. There seems to be two issues: the Eurodam is too large to enter the port, and water traffic in the port area itself is limited to 5 mph. So we drop anchor outside the harbor and will have to make a 45-minute tender ride and debark on a tricky pontoon docked at shore. Secondly, the weather forecast calls for light rain, heavy winds, and sea swells. So the question of the day is: will I get ashore for my excursion in the morning?

Tuesday in Portimão: the question is answered

Good news—the sun is shining, the sea is calm, and the captain was just crying wolf (shark?)! Portimão is the second largest city on Portugal’s Algarve coast. All I can see is high rise hotels filling the horizon from west to east. In the summer Portimão is overrun by tourists from northern Europe (kind of like snowbirds in Tucson in the winter). But we’re off through the countryside to visit two smaller cities, Carvoiero and Lagos. Carvoiero is a small fishing village, now pretty much dedicated to the tourist trade, with a lovely beach; Lagos has a large pedestrians-only city center with tiled streets and Moorish-influenced architecture. It’s a place just for wandering through the narrow, curving streets, originally built as part of the protection against pirates. There is a light drizzle as we sail away from Portimão in the late afternoon, but otherwise the weather gods are being kind.








 
 
 
 
 
 
 
It’s me in Carvoiero
 
Three photos of Lagos

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
A note about pronunciation: Cádiz is pronounced with a stress on the first syllable (Ká-dith) and Lagos is a city in Africa. La-goosh (with the stress on the second syllable) is the city in Portugal.


After returning to the ship, I have a room service snack on my verandah: shrimp cocktail and French onion soup.

Tuesday Dinner

• Peppercorn-seared duck breast cut into thin slices with apple-celeriac slaw
• Garden salad with balsamic vinaigrette
• Penne with fresh Roma tomatoes, Parmesan cheese, and shallots
• Strawberry ice cream

That’s it for now. I will continue with Cádiz, the white villages, and the Strait of Gibraltar tomorrow.

Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Monday, 12 April 2010

An absolutely perfect day: wonderful weather, spectacular port, scenic shore excursion, and total exhaustion.












Eurodam docked in Lisbon

Sunday Dinner

Just to keep the record complete I shall record the dinner menu:

• Chilled green asparagus with buffalo mozzarella and balsamic vinegar
• Caesar salad with anchovies—Michael must have requested extra anchovies, for I can hardly find the romaine under the little fishes
• Veal cordon bleu—excellent taste, but the veal was not as tender as it should have been; the chefs should have beaten the meat thinner
Tarte Tatin—a caramelized apple confection, with vanilla ice cream

Monday Morning: Arrival in Lisbon

I awake at 5 am to the changing gears of the engines as the Eurodam enters the Tagus River estuary and slowly sails into Lisbon’s waterfront. The sun is just beginning to emerge as we do a complete 180º pivot—like a graceful elephant en point—and then sidle to the pier almost directly under the 25th of April Bridge (designed by the same architects who built the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco). Although the Tagus forms a wide bay at Lisbon, it soon narrows and is not navigable much beyond the city limits. The Tagus actually begins in the hills of central Spain, flows through Toledo, and eventually reaches the sea at Lisbon.












Christ the Redeemer & 25th April
Bridge (from my verandah)

This morning’s excursion to Obidos begins with a 75-minute bus ride through the Lisbon suburbs and surrounding agricultural area, a landscape of steep green valleys and hills lined with windmills, both the new energy producing ones and the old sail windmills with which Cervantes would be familiar. On arrival, our tour guide leads us through the fortified gates of this old hilltop town, completely surrounded by its walls. In addition, there is time to wander on my own, take almost 135 photographs, and buy a souvenir notebook.



















































The tour bus returns us to the Eurodam about 1 pm, and I walk to the nearby station, at Alicantara Mar, to catch the train into the city center. But the automated ticket machines (which worked perfectly last year) simply refuse to take any paper money. Fortunately I’m picked up by three strangers who want to share a cab into the city center. We hail the most beautiful cab driver in Europe (sorry, no picture), and then we all go our separate ways when we reach Rossio Square.

My way is to wander through the Baxia, the central low-lying 18th-century center of the city. I ride the eleveador Santa Justa to the Chiado district for a good cup of coffee and more wandering, ending at the Cais do Sodre station for the quick train ride back to the ship.

A short afternoon cannot do justice to the charms of Lisbon, but this is my third visit to the city and I am sure I will be back again. Travel guide Ian provides narration as we sail back into the Atlantic and darkness. Tomorrow: Portimao on the Algarve.

Sunday, April 11, 2010

Sunday, 11 April 2010


The last day at sea—hard to believe it has been 8 days (actually 196 hours, but who’s counting?).  Now we continue on to 8 ports.  The weather is warming and the skies clearing as we get closer to Portugal and I sit out on the Observation Deck for a while to enjoy the sunshine and warmth.



Promenade Deck












Saturday Dinner in the Pinnacle Grill

I carry my gift bottle of HAL 135th Anniversary CMS Wine (combination of cabernet, merlot, and shiraz) to the Pinnacle Grille. There is usually a $20 service charge for dining here, but two dinners are covered by the wine package I purchased before sailing. The Grill has specialty breads (Italian flatbreads and olive breads) and a choice of menu items not served in the other dining venues. The portions are larger too—excessively large, in fact:

Amusé bouche of eggplant fritter in sweet and sour sauce
• Arugula salad with warm bacon dressing, garnished with hard cooked egg, red onion, mushrooms, and cherry tomatoes
• New York strip steak with béarnaise sauce, marinated mushrooms, and creamy scalloped potatoes
• Lemon sorbet and decaf

I am sorely tempted by the chocolate soufflé and the volcano cake, but I just can’t manage another bite (I couldn’t even finish my steak).

Sunday Afternoon

The afternoon begins with the special Mariner’s Brunch for those folk who are return cruisers on Holland America (which has the highest rate of return passengers in the cruise industry). I share a table with guests from Florida (who formerly ran a cattle ranch near Madison, VA), and Nashville, TN (music producers). Ian Page, the travel director, also joins the table. He has been providing a series of lectures about the ports, and when the timing is right (not too early in the morning or late at night) scenic commentary as we sail in and out. He will give his first commentary tomorrow evening as we leave Lisbon. He will also be on the tour to Obidos that I am taking from Lisbon. And so the question of the day is: will he remember the negative comments about his snide sense of humor that I wrote up in the evaluation at the end of last year’s cruise?

After brunch I attend another cooking demonstration presented by the head chefs of the three specialty restaurants (Thai, Italian, American) and a backstage tour of the Mainstage Theatre, during which we meet the cast and see the cramped working space they must endure.

My first load of laundry is returned carefully folded and presented in tissue paper and a wicker box (T shirts, underwear, and socks), and I send off a second load (shirts and slacks).

I’m really excited about landing tomorrow—Lisbon is one of my favorite places. And the blogs should certainly get more interesting when I have the sights and sounds of travel to describe and not just the food and laundry.

Saturday, April 10, 2010

Saturday, 10 April 2010


Saturday afternoon and I’m back enjoying sunshine and beautiful clear skies. The Eurodam is about 600 nautical miles west of Lisbon and eight hours ahead of Tucson time (MST). We are beginning to see other ships, mostly freighters and tankers, as we get closer to Western Europe. The final daylight time change occurs this afternoon and then the next (and final) time change comes overnight on Tuesday-Wednesday as we sail from Portugal to Spain. Everyone on board seems to remain healthy and there have been no stark announcements about health issues since we left port, although there are hand-cleaning stations everywhere.

University of Arizona Poetry Center

Most of you know that for the past year I have been volunteering at the University of Arizona Poetry Center. Just before leaving Tucson I did a short electronic interview with Pulitzer Prize-winning poet Franz Wright for the April edition of the monthly Poetry Center Newsletter. If you’d like to read the interview I have provided a direct link above (http://poetrycenter.arizona.edu/enewsletter/april2010/enews0410wright.shtml). You can also navigate around the Poetry Center website to see some pictures of the really neat building.

Question of the Day


How do crew members who see you briefly for breakfast maybe once every two or three days always remember your name? Holland America must give a course in memory tricks. When I was teaching I could barely remember students’ names by the end of the semester.

Friday Afternoon: Passing the Azores

At three in the afternoon we pass close to the north shore of the northernmost of the Azores Islands, Korvo—a sparsely populated, mostly volcanic rock. Even though it is overcast it is quite pleasant to sit on the Promenade Deck as we pass the island (and get a brief presentation from Travel Director Ian on its history and culture).






 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Friday Formal Dinner:


Tonight is the “Black and White” Dinner and Officers’ Ball, so I don my best again for

• A glass of Domine Ste Michelle Brut Champagne
• Duck pâté brioche: pâté in croute with pistachios and a side of creamy slaw
• Caesar salad
• Filet mignon and a very large lobster tail: Michael, my dining steward, asks if I want a second lobster tail, but I refrain. The best part is that he removes the tail from the meat.
• Tiramisú for dessert




















Saturday: More Engineering Highlights


The highlight of the day is the tour of the ship’s stores—the food storage and waste control areas. This is the first time I’ve been on a ship that offers a tour of the underbelly of its operation. We are guided through packaged food storage, refrigeration, frozen foods, liquor and water operations; we see (and smell) the bakery and meat cutting areas; and even tour the facilities for storing and printing all the materials distributed to passengers over the 16 days of the cruise. We see where glass is ground to bits and metal cans are crushed. At the end of the tour we are taken through the engine control room—certainly a place for clean freaks. I hope the pictures speak for themselves.












































































Saturday Dinner in the Pinnacle Grill   

I’ll save the details for tomorrow’s blog.

Friday, April 9, 2010

Friday, 9 April 2010


It’s Friday afternoon. This is my first blog since Wednesday so that I have some catching up to do. I will post some photos, so if you read only the blog emails sent directly to you, you should also click on the link to the actual website so that you can view the pictures. It’s a somewhat dreary, typical North Atlantic day, but the captain will be taking a slight detour this afternoon so that we will sail close by the northern shores of the Azores, and at least see some land after so much expanse of water.

Wednesday Evening: Indonesian Crew Show

The crew show is quite a hoot; it’s nice that some people don’t take themselves too seriously. It is well worth staying up after midnight! The costumes are quite colorful and the choreography can only be described as comically complex.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 




Thursday: Philip Roth’s American Pastoral (1997)


The weather has turned overcast and the seas are a little higher, but there is still no need for any kind of motion medication. After another room service breakfast I spend a quiet day, mostly reading Philip Roth’s American Pastoral.

As most of you know, I tend to read more British and Anglophone than American fiction, and I have previously read only one or two novels by Roth. But American Pastoral really defied all my expectations of what late Roth is like, and I was both impressed by the structure of the novel and deeply moved by its central characters. I have read a number of works in the past few years that focus on the political and cultural dimensions of the ‘60s, mostly from the point of view of the young rebel growing into maturity. Jay Cantor’s Great Neck (2003) gives an epic and cogent analysis of a group of privileged Long Island youth (hence the title), led into the extremes of the SDS and Weathermen ironically by the Holocaust survivors of their parents’ generation. Susan Choi’s American Woman (2003) and Diana Spiotta’s Eat the Document (2006) look at former dissidents trying to return to a place in society and raise their own children. Roth, however, views the violence of the age and its effects on American culture through the lens of the father of a 16-year old girl who blows up a suburban post office and inadvertently kills a passerby. Roth succeeds in making Swede Levov’s parental situation both intensely personal and nationally emblematic in a way that much American first-person narrative fails to do.

Thursday Dinner:


After that heavy reading I am happy to finish off my bottle of Sauvignon Blanc from last night along with:

• Escargot between layers of puff pastry in a creamy garlic sauce

• Greenhouse salad with balsamic vinaigrette

• Grilled tuna over haricots vert and mesclun greens

• Chocolate chip ice cream and decaf

I skip the evening’s entertainment and opt for a good night’s sleep.

Friday: Kitchen and Engineering Highlights

Today I get a further education into the workings of the Eurodam with a morning tour of the kitchen and food preparation areas. Something new is added to the tour this year—tasting samples—as  as we move through each part of the kitchen, including the staging area for the Pinnacle Restaurant (where I will dine on Saturday). Some weighty statistics: on a seven-day cruise, passengers will consume 11,830 lbs of meat and meat products; 3,814 lbs of poultry and 1,875 pounds of fish; 1,675 lbs of butter and margarine; and 137,500 lbs of fresh vegetables. And, of course, that’s not to mention 23,040 eggs.  And that's just seven days.











































After the kitchen tour there is a sit-down question and answer session with the Chief Engineer, who actually oversaw the building of the Eurodam outside of Venice in 2007 and 2008. He begins with a slide show of the construction process and then answers a lot of technical questions (it is amazing what some people want to know). It’s interesting that on an Atlantic crossing the ship sails at high speed for the first two days (about 22 knots) and then slows down to a normal cruising range of 18-19 knots. This is done to build in extra time in case of emergencies—sometimes passenger medical conditions or changes in weather will demand re-routing. Last year we made a slight detour to Bermuda to disembark a sick passenger (you can check out the details on the blog entry from then); today we are making a slight detour to get a closer look at the Azores. The extra speed on the first two days allows us to do this and still reach Lisbon on schedule.






Chief Engineer Jan Koller and
Cruise Director Jason Venner









The ss United States still holds the speed record for crossing the Atlantic in five days—but to accomplish that she had to sail at 40-42 knots. It’s shaky enough at 18 knots; I would hate to be on board going over 40.

Final Fact of the Day: There are 18 children on board this cruise (there weren’t any last year) and I had lunch with two of them (and their parents) today. They did, in fact, ask if it was okay to share my table—a good-looking young couple returning to their home in Germany after having spent three years in Wichita Falls, TX, with their two beautiful blond sons, Max (4) and Ben (2½), who are very popular with the crew, high-fiving everyone they meet.


Time now to don my formal wear for dinner; I’ll report on that in tomorrow’s blog.

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Wednesday, 7 April 2010


It’s 10:30 pm and we are just passing the halfway point on the 8-day crossing from Ft Lauderdale to Lisbon. Once we start hitting ports I hope the blog will become a little more interesting and a little less repetitious. They days are wonderfully uneventful, with calm seas and clear skies. It’s a good thing I have a pair of shorts, since they are pretty much what I wear during the day.

After room service breakfast this morning, I attend a talk on Italian culture from the Romans to the 20th century, by the second lecturer, Professor Joe Barghoti, a native of Jerusalem. He is refreshingly secular in his approach to Christianity. I use my cell phone to talk to Will at home and am amazed at the speed and clarity of the call—much superior even to land service. Of course, I won’t tell you what the per minute charge is!

Wednesday Evening: Dinner and Entertainment


I begin a new bottle of wine with dinner, a Blackstone California Sauvignon Blanc that is refreshingly dry and crisp. Tonight’s menu choices:

• Skewered shrimp brochette with soy-peanut dipping sauce

• Caesar salad with anchovies

• Coho salmon with rice and steamed vegetables—the salmon cooked perfectly, although the maître d stopped by to make sure that it wasn’t underdone

• Raspberry sorbet and decaf

The evening’s main entertainment is a comedian and juggler (yes, they still exist), Benji Hill. And I write this blog entry while waiting for the Indonesian Crew Show to begin at 11:15 pm. My assistant table steward, Jaya, made a special point of telling me he plays the lead in the “Ramayana Dance,” so I will have to put in an appearance. I will give a report in the next blog.

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Tuesday, 6 April 2010


It’s another beautiful sailing day as we make our way across the North Atlantic. We travel a great circle route because it is shorter than going straight across (remember high school physics?) and we should reach the northernmost point of the arc on Thursday, before slipping back down toward Lisbon.

 
Monday Evening: Dinner and Entertainment

It’s nice that the dinner menus are different than last year’s cruise, although there is always enough variety and choice that it wouldn’t matter if they were the same. Tonight I start with slices of fresh tomato and mozzarella cheese with balsamic vinegar and fresh basil. The tomatoes are good, although not spectacular this early in the season, but the cheese and vinegar are excellent (notice I write in the present tense, just like Henry Fielding’s Shamela). This is followed by what they call “Scottish Delight”—a friseé salad with smoked salmon, capers, and orange segments. Since I’m drinking a hearty red wine—3 Blind Moose Cabernet, California, 2008—I go with the prime rib and baked potato. The beef is prepared perfectly and served with a deep thick sauce. Light strawberry sorbet and decaf provide a light ending.

I learn at dinner that Anthony, the wine steward (who is about 38 years old and has a wife and two children, 18 and 20, in Manila), plans to sail with Holland America for another two or three years and then return home and open a small restaurant in Manila. But the big unanswered question at dinner is why the lady of a certain age two tables away is wearing an emerald green sequined knit cap.

I take in the late show in the Mainstage Theatre, but it’s only a second-rate comedian, so I don’t stay very long.

Tuesday at Sea


The sky is a bit overcast this morning but the winds have abated and it is quite pleasant to be on deck even though the air temperature is only in the high 60s. This morning’s highlight is the culinary demonstration by Pinnacle Grill Chef Paul, who is quite a hoot, and party planner Danielle (who has replaced Melissa from earlier cruises). The presentation is Dungeness Crab Cakes and Chocolate Volcano Cake (more formally known as Chocolate Velvet). In the afternoon the sky clears and the sea is calm as the temperature warms to the low 70s. I attend another wine tasting in the afternoon and then move the clock forward another hour. I especially enjoy the 2007 La Roche Premier Crú Chablis.

Tuesday Evening: Dinner and Entertainment
• Trio of salmon preparations with caviar and shrimp in sweet mustard sauce
• Strawberry bisque
Sauerbraten with cinnamon apple red cabbage, speatzle, sweet raisins, and crispy fried onions—the most tender Sauerbraten I have ever enjoyed
• Pear flan with chunks of fresh pear inside and Burgundy cherries on the side

I almost finish the bottle of Cabernet from last night, but tell Anthony to share what’s left with the fishes.

Tonight’s entertainment is Teatro—a male quartet (two baritones, two tenors)—all very good-looking, in slick black suits, singing Broadway songs. They keep the songs low key and don’t pander to the audience so it’s a pleasant way to end the evening.


Monday, April 5, 2010

Monday, 5 April 2010


It’s Monday afternoon as we sail north of Bermuda under sunny skies and light winds. The Eurodam made full headway on Saturday and Sunday as we cruised near top speed at 23 knots to take advantage of the fine weather. Currently we are going a little slower, but still moving at a brisk 19.8 knots.  Since the sea is calm they are using only one of the stabilizers.

Sunday Evening: Captain’s Formal Dinner

The dining issue has been resolved so I will skip the details. The good news is that I am at the same table (just for me) in the dining room, this time facing in the opposite direction from last year, looking out toward the windows at the very back of the ship (no more nautical terms). At 8 pm the sky is still bright and I can watch the light dim and change to darkness by the time dinner is finished just before 9:30. The better news is that the table steward and his assistant are NOT the same ones as last year (if you’ve read my earlier blog you will remember that the waiter was a bit surly) and both promise to provide pleasant and efficient service. The best news is that Anthony, the wine steward from last year, IS back. In fact, he came to find and greet me when I was in a different area of the dining room for the first night’s dinner (of course, it pays to have left a nice extra gratuity last year).






 


Anthony on last year's cruise





Dinner was fresh shrimp cocktail; arugula and frisee salad with mandarin oranges, pine nuts and balsamic vinaigrette; rack of lamb—four large chops—with a creamy potato cake and ratatouille. I was tempted by the chocolate soufflé for dessert but took the smarter option of strawberry sorbet and decaf coffee.

Monday at Sea

I spent a quiet day today, relaxing and getting into the rhythm of being at sea. In the afternoon I attended a lecture, by a scholar from the University of California, tracing the historical background and current political/economic issues in Portugal. Starting tomorrow there will be two lectures per day.

Another pleasant new arrangement on this cruise is that all five time changes until we reach Portugal will occur at two in the afternoon rather than in the middle of the night—thus we won’t lose an hour’s sleep each night. So for the next week the hours from 2-3 pm simply do not exist.

It’s time for my pre-dinner nap, so I will sign off for now.

Sunday, April 4, 2010

Sunday, 3 April 2010


Yesterday—embarkation and sailing day—was very busy so I didn’t have time to post. But I shall make up for it today. I’ll try arranging things by topic so that you may skip around the page as you wish. I write the blog in my stateroom, where I can plug the computer into an electrical outlet and not use up the battery; then I can go on the web directly from my stateroom or verandah. As you might expect, the web out here in the middle of the ocean is rather slow and pictures take especially long to upload, so I will use them sparingly. But I will share all my photos on Kodak.com when I return home.

So first it’s back to Saturday: Ft Lauderdale and Embarkation


I spent the morning rearranging my suitcases while waiting for my cousin David and his partner Jeffrey to pick me up for lunch and then drive me to the cruiseport. It was especially generous of David to pick me up since he is a professional cruise travel agent and I didn’t use his services for this cruise (only because I like to attend to all the details myself). But I heartily recommend his service (I have used it on a previous cruise); if you are planning to cruise from/to anywhere you can book through him at the International Cruise Center 1-800-921-0458 (be sure to ask for David and tell him you’re my friend).

We took a leisurely drive through the scenic highlights of Ft Lauderdale Beach; I am always impressed by its cleanliness and sparkling waters. But, of course, my Arizona nose and lungs have become really sensitive to Florida air and humidity (did I tell you I woke up with a blazing sinus headache?). We stopped for lunch at a pub/restaurant in the center of Ft Lauderdale’s gay neighborhood—although ALL of Ft Lauderdale seems to be the center of the gay world. After lunch we fought beach traffic for about 30 minutes (another reason I prefer Tucson) and then arrived at the port (security means waving your driver’s license in the air; I feel safer already) and shipside where there were no lines and no waiting time and I was on the ship and in my stateroom before 2 pm.

On Board in Ft Lauderdale

The verandah is a wonderful lagniappe! We’ve had verandahs on our Mexico and Alaska cruises, but I would have been perfectly happy with the forward-looking oceanview stateroom I had booked (just as on the last cruise). All the verandahs on this part of deck 4—forward, port side—are larger than most of the other verandahs on the ship, extending out the side of the ship a good two feet farther than the verandah above. That allows me more deck space and more access to the sky and air.































There are seven ships at port here, including the new 6,000 passenger Royal Caribbean Oasis of the Seas (for comparison: the Eurodam carries 2100 passengers, but this cruise has about 100 fewer than capacity). Two pieces of good news already: you no longer have to bring or wear your life jacket to the mandatory drill before leaving port, and the Eurodam is one of only two completely disease-free ships currently sailing out of Ft Lauderdale—let’s hope it stays that way for the duration. The captain has called for three days of beautiful sailing weather and will give us updates on the later weather as we progress on our great circle route across the Sargasso Sea and the North Atlantic.

First Night’s Dinner


There was a bit of a kerfuffle regarding my dinner assignment, but I believe that it has been worked out. Just to be sure that everything has been resolved, I won’t give the details until after Sunday’s dinner. Dinner itself was excellent, with well-prepared food and leisurely service. I was seated a little after 8 pm and didn’t finish until just before 9:30. I began with a bottle of 2008 Danzante Pinot Grigio; I drank about half the bottle and will have the rest with dinner on Sunday. First course was an antipasto plate of European cured meats and paté; followed by Tomato Soup Florentine, served piping hot with a nice spicy kick, as well as fresh basil and pine nuts; roasted salmon with artichokes, fingerling potatoes, and broccoli; then tiramisu and decaf.

The two ladies seated at the table behind me were from Phoenix—I wonder if Holland America is segregating the Arizonans.

After dinner it was a quick flop into bed and a good night’s sleep.

Sunday Morning


I never knew there were seven different kinds of Eggs Benedict! Don’t ask me to list them now, but I will probably try them all before we get to Rome. Today I had just the traditional kind.

Beautiful sunshine all day, but the breeze is a little cool. I found the perfect place to lounge on Deck 10 aft (Observation Deck), where the chaises are backed against the heat exhaust from the smokestacks which provide a warm glow to mitigate the cool air.

Activities for the Day

Morning presentation about shore excursions by the travel staff and an afternoon presentation about the ports of call by Ian, the travel director—a familiar voice from last year’s cruise. Then an afternoon wine tasting by the Head Wine Steward. We sampled five wines (three whites, two reds), including several from the list of selections in my “sommelier package,” along with a plate of appropriate edibles. The steward was especially good about explaining the signs of a bad wine and why most red wines don’t need to breathe before pouring. Later in the day a GBLT mixer met in the Tamarind Bar at the top of the ship. I was glad to see that for the first time Holland America is using the term “GBLT” rather than the old-fashioned, secretive, and often-misleading “Friends of Dorothy.”

During a light lunch in the Terrace Café in the sunshine by the pool, there arose from the bowels of the ship a loud, long piercing whistle followed by a grinding that sounded like the engines were splitting into the ocean. But no one seemed to panic and I soon discovered that it was only the sound of the retractable roof over the swimming pool being fully opened. Funny, with all of my previous cruising, I had never heard that sound.

Saturday, April 3, 2010

Holland America ms Eurodam

Just received news that I've been upgraded to a stateroom with a verandah.  It's almost directly under the forward-looking ocean-view stateroom that I had booked, but several decks lower, which should mean more stability in case the ocean gets rocky.

Here's the official description of the Eurodam and of my new stateroom:

Ship’s Registry: the Netherlands
Passenger Capacity: 2,104
Crew: 929
Gross Tonnage: 86,700
Length: 936 feet
Beam: 105.8
Maximum Speed: 23.9 Knots
Maiden Voyage: July 2008
Passenger Decks: 11

Deluxe Verandah Ocean-View Stateroom


  • 1 queen-size bed, shower, sitting area, private verandah, floor-to-ceiling windows



  • Approximately 254 sq. ft.



  • Signature Mariner's Dream™ bed featuring plush Sealy Posturepedic® Euro-Top mattress and                 finely woven cotton linens



  • Luxurious bathrobes for use during your voyage



  • 100% Egyptian cotton towels



  • Premium massage showerhead



  • 5x magnifying lighted make-up mirror and salon-quality hair dryer



  • Fragrant soaps, lotions, shampoo and other bath amenities from Elemis Aromapure



  • Complimentary fresh fruit on request



  • Elegant ice bucket and serving tray for in-stateroom beverages



  • Flat-panel TV and DVD player



  • Ice service, shoeshine service and nightly turndown service



  • Complimentary 24-hour room service



    • The Oceanview Stateroom I occuped on last year's Eurodam cruise has 185 square feet, with a window looking out the front of the ship and, of course, no verandah.

      Friday, April 2, 2010

      Friday, 2 April 2010

      Hello Everyone and Welcome to the first new blog entry.  Remember you can link back to "Home" at any time to return the itinerary.

      I received a big surprise from Holland America on Thursday—an upgrade to a Verandah Stateroom on the Upper Promenade Deck. I expect it will be too cool to spend much time out there while crossing the Atlantic, but it will be wonderful to have room service breakfasts on the verandah as the Eurodam sails into each of the European ports.

      Will drove me to the airport at 4:30 am and I left Tucson at 6:10. Arrived in Ft Lauderdale at 4:40pm (with a change in Atlanta and a three hour time difference). Both flights were on time and full. My suitcase was one of the last to come off the carousel in Ft Lauderdale; Delta had put a big “heavy” tag on it. I wonder why!

      The Renaissance Ft Lauderdale at Port Everglades is close to the intracoastal waterway and only five minutes from the cruise line piers. I took a short walk and found a local Italian restaurant in a nearby strip mall: Trattorria Pizzeria Pancetta. The restaurant was full of happy, noisy people, many of them speaking Italian, so I had high hopes for dinner. But, alas, the food was ordinary: a very large green salad with a bland Italian dressing and penne with Italian sausage and peppers, neither of which had much flavor. The glass of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and the amuse bouche (what is the Italian for that?) of sliced large white mushrooms with Parmesan cheese and olive oil were quite good. I stopped for chocolate ice cream at Stone Cold Creamery but the ice cream pales in comparison to the gelato we get at Frost in Tucson.

      I'm reading Philip Roth's American Pastoral--the only book I've brought along.  But I do have eight more recent novels waiting on my Kindle to read on the crossing.

      Now for a good night’s rest.