Today we visit Tunis, the capital of Tunisia—the most westernized country in North Africa, with a government that is a democratic republic and a population that is 80% Christian. Native Tunisians are descended from the Berbers, but the populace today is mostly Arabic. We dock in La Goutlette, a port suburb of Tunis, and will join a tour that takes us to both the historical heart of the Tunis Medina and the seaside artist’s colony of Sidi Abou Said.
But first back to our last day in Barcelona and our sail away to Monte Carlo.
Wednesday, 20 October 2010
The Morning in Barcelona
The Queen Victoria remained docked overnight in Barcelona, and this morning we have the opportunity for some more exploration. We take the free shuttle bus from the pier to the World Trade Center at the foot of Las Ramblas, and then a short walk to the funicular that will take us up the hill to Parc Montjuic and the Joan Miro Foundation and Museum. Barcelona has a great integrated transportation system of metro, buses, funiculars, and cable cars—all of which accept our 3-day Barcelona card.
The Miro Foundation is a highlight of any visit to Barcelona—and beats the Picasso Museum by a hundred heartbeats. The museum contains major examples of every medium that Miro worked in, some monumental in size, and all vibrant in color and texture (no indoor photos allowed). The white walls and natural light bring out the feelings of joy and exuberance in all the works. The roof of the museum is literally littered with a series of Miro’s most amusing sculptures and also provides a fine view over all of Barcelona. Then it’s back down the funicular and a short walk to the shuttle bus that takes us back to the ship.
Sailing to Monte Carlo and the First Formal Night
We sail away at one in the afternoon while having lunch in the Britannia Restaurant: chilled sweet red pepper soup, really excellent boeuf Bourguignon (Larry), a club sandwich with the crusts trimmed (Will), Irish coffee mousse with pistachio cream (L), and walnut and chocolate chip ice cream (W). The only afternoon activities are the obligatory life vest drill (in the Royal Court Theatre), followed by a lecture about the first three ports: Monaco, Livorno, and Naples.
Ironic note: The Cunard Line is noted for its refined service and conservative atmosphere, but they have named the entertainment center, “The Royal Court Theatre,” in honor of the place that was a hotbed of revolutionary theatre in 1950’s London and saw the premiers of agitprop political theatre and the plays of the generation of England’s “Angry Young Men.”
Tonight is the first formal dinner and the “Black and White Ball.” We dress up in our finery and look mighty impressive (we decided after all the indecision to bring our tuxedoes). The highlight of my dinner is the Buffalo mozzarella, plum tomato, and basil pesto caprese—with wonderful tasty tomatoes that we just don’t see very much in Tucson. Will enjoys his fresh spinach ricotta ravioli with melted cherry tomatoes in a creamy cheese sauce. And, of course, there is authentic warm apple strudel with vanilla ice cream. We share a bottle of 2006 Wente Cabaret Sauvignon from coastal California, sent to us by our travel agent, Elaine (thanks, Elaine!).
Thursday, 22 October 2010
Arrival and Touring in Monte Carlo
We arrive at Monaco just before dawn and drop anchor about six tenths of a mile out. It’s only a brief ride on the tender right into the center of the port, docking among the largest and most ostentation yachts and sailboats on display anywhere in the Mediterranean. Since I was here just last April, we don’t need a tour today; Monaco is so compact that the highlights can be seen in several hours.
We start with a short walk along the rocky coast into the base of a large rock outcropping atop of which sits the Old City. Fortunately for tourists, the Monegasques have installed a series of elevators and escalators that take us from the shore to the top. It’s not far—a lovely walk through the St Martin Gardens with views in every direction over the sea—to reach the Romanesque Cathedral, where Princess Grace (among others) is buried, and the Palace Square.
We take a walking tour through the Royal Apartments, but somehow the audio on the earphones never seems to correspond to the rooms we are in. There are a few nice pieces of Italian and French furniture (if you like ornate rococo), but the art, including all the family portraits, is not very good.
A city bus takes us down the hill into the commercial center of town, closed to automobiles, and we have a light lunch and wonderful coffee at a very popular and busy café. After some window shopping there is another bus up another hillside to the more fashionable part of town, site of the Casino, the Opera House, the most serious selection of well-known designer shops, and an indoor, three-story shopping center with the most incredible crystal chandeliers. In mid-afternoon we head back to the tenders to the ship.
Sunset Sail Away and Second Formal Dinner
We watch a lovely sunset from our verandah as the Queen Victoria slowly slips away from the coast and we head for Livorno and Tuscany. We are amidships on Deck 5 and can’t believe how smooth and quiet she is, even as she makes the 90-degree turn out of the harbor. We don our fancy dress for another formal dinner followed by the “Masquerade Ball”—don’t ask what the balls are all about since we only take a quick look from the balcony of the Ballroom. We have champagne on the verandah before dinner.
I will report about the food and service later in more detail. Our servers, Jane and Wilmer, are friendly and efficient (all you can ask for), and the portions are very large. Food is well prepared and always at the right temperature—but this is a British ship and the chef’s staff could use a little more imagination.
We long forward to a long day in Tuscany tomorrow, so for now it’s good night—and good sailing.
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