I guess you are all thinking I am lost at sea. Actually I have been home in Tucson for just over a week now and finally finding some time to continue with the blog since my last major posting about Foynes and Limerick, Ireland. So I hope you will continue to keep up with my adventures as my trip rounds out in Plymouth, UK; St Peter Port, Channel Islands; Zeebrugge, Belgium; and the trip home from Amsterdam via Dusseldorf and New York City. I did keep notes and I will be consulting them to aid my memory.



 

Last night (Wednesday, leaving Cobh) on the Prinsendam for dinner I enjoyed beef carpaccio, roasted rack of veal, and a chocolate and whisky gateau for dessert. I also started the last bottle of my five-bottle package deal: a very nice Pinot Noir from 2011 (Leboure-Roi).

 

Thursday 15 August 2013

Plymouth, UK

 

This morning's arrival in Plymouth requires tendering because the only pier large enough for cruise ships is occupied by ferries running to the Channel Islands and to France. And, as the Captain says in his daily address, the ferries bring in steady income while the occasional cruise ship provides only small change.

There is much of historical interest in Plymouth, especially related to Britain’s (and America’s) relationship with the sea.  Although the tender lands at some distance from the center of the city, free shuttle buses take Holland America passengers into town, stopping in the heart of the shopping district.  This area is also the site of St Andrew’s Church, heavily bombed during WWII, but now fully restored with interesting modern stained glass.  Quite nearby, The Hoe, the largest urban green space in southern England, overlooks the harbor and coast on one side and the city center on the other.  A cultivated garden walkway on the seaside is home, on the western end, to a large public bathing area and a series of monuments connected to maritime history, honoring the defeat of the Spanish Armada and the explorers of the New World.  On the eastern end, the large stone Citadel is part of the original defenses of the city.  From here, the Barbican Wall (now a busy street) extends around the historic port, with shops, inns, and restaurants.  Of primary interest to Americans is The Mayflower Steps, the original embarkation point for many ships sailing across the Atlantic.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The large crowd of tourists and shoppers are happily eating take-away platters of fish and chips, so I stop at a small restaurant with outside tables and watch the crowds as I attempt to finish a huge portion of fish, chips, and peas. Fully fortified I visit a large souvenir and gift shop, not really expecting to find much of interest. It turns out to be, however, an outlet for Pringle Sweaters of Scotland, and there is a truly remarkable sale on men’s cashmere sweaters. At last I have found a gift for Will—and naturally I pick up one for myself as well.

 

 

After a short walk back to the city center (guided by the landmark tower of the Plymouth Gin Distillery), I ride the shuttle back to the tender port and then motor over the water to the Prinsendam. 

  

Although I have been enjoying my private table in the La Fontaine Dining Room each night, I have also been made quite welcome by the folks at the large table (for ten) next to mine.  One couple happens to be from Richmond and has connections with VCU.  The others are from California, Iowa, and Wisconsin.  None of these folks, with the exception of their spouses and travel mates, knew each other before the cruise; but they are enjoying each other’s company immensely.  They have made me welcome to join them for drinks before going into the dining room and invite me to their table at dinner every night.  I generally decline, but tonight two couples are eating in the Pinnacle Grill Specialty Restaurant, so I don’t feel badly about squeezing in when I accept the invitation for a delightful dinner and interesting conversation.

 

It turns out that the passenger who had a fainting spell during the lifeboat drill on the day we left Amsterdam is a former school principal, Carol, who. now lives in California and has done a great deal of travelling around the world.  In fact, she and her fellow traveler, Karen, are continuing on the Prinsendam for two more works as it sails through the Baltic to St Petersburg.

 

Before bedtime I send out my last load of laundry.  I have taken full advantage of the “Unlimited Laundry and Dry Cleaning Service” for $98.00 for the 14-day cruise.  Had I sent the laundry out on a per piece basis, it would have cost me over $300.00.

 

Tomorrow we sail to Port St Peter on the Isle of Guernsey in the semi-independent Channel Islands.  The Captain has predicted rain and if he is right it will be the first day of bad weather I’ve had since leaving New York on 27 July.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello from Bijou restaurant at LaGuardia airport where you order food on the iPad at your table and then surf the web for free while waiting for food to arrive.  I am on way home to Tucson and will be glad to see loved ones--Will, Luke and Jake.  I am sorry I left off in Ireland, but have been very busy.  I will continue the daily reports from home--so don't give up.  Part of why I was so busy is that I was actually socializing with a very nice group of people from the table next to mine in the dining room.  They were extremely cordial and welcoming to me, but I'll save the details for a later entry.

Now it's time to eat.

I'm in Dusseldorf tonight; flying to New York city tomorrow, and then home to Tucson on Wednesday.  I will continue where I left off when I get home.

Wednesday 14 August 2013

Cobh/Cork, Ireland

Not only does the Prinsendam dock alongside the port in Cobh (pronounced “cove”), but the Irish Rail station at which the commuter trains to Cork stop, is literally ten steps away.  It’s not surprising that the station is so close to the port; Cobh (or “Queenstown” as it was called in the 19^th century) was the final embarkation port for all shipping to America by the White Star Line.  The most well-known ship to have made a final stop in Queenstown was, of course, the Titanic.  Much of this small port city thrives on memories of and memorials to that famous ship.

Although the train station is close, it still takes about 20 minutes to purchase a cheap-day-return to Cork.  There are no self-service ticket machines and everyone has to wait in line for the single agent to issue the tickets and make the change.  A bus from the train station goes directly to the center of the city and a couple of hours are enough time to absorb what the city has to offer (like the local Irish sausage on sale at the English Market).  Back in Cobh in the afternoon, I have to admit that this small city is a much more pleasant place than its bigger sister.  The waterfront walk, the shops and restaurants bestrewn with fresh flowers, and the local children still on holiday from school, offer a much lovelier view than the streets of Limerick or Cork.

Today is my final day in Ireland and I am glad that I finally made it to the west coast, with all its literary and historical associations.  But I still haven’t really seen the idyllic beauty of the Irish countryside; for that a car and a lot of slow driving is really necessary.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Prinsendam is steaming toward Amsterdam tonight and disembarkation in the morning.  These 14 days have gone by really quickly.  The sailing has been smooth and the weather, except for one day of misty rain, has been spectacular.  Although gratuities are automatically charged to each passenger’s account, I gave some additional cast to my wine steward (who is heading back home to the Philippines tomorrow) and the two table stewards in the dining room.  After greeting me on the first day of the cruise, I have not seen my room steward at all.  He goes about his work with remarkable efficiency and invisibility.

Tuesday 13 August 2013
Foynes, Ireland

Before arriving in Foynes this morning, the Captain announces that we will not be visiting our next scheduled port, East Dunsmore for Waterford, Ireland, but will, instead, call at Cobh (pronounced “cove”) for Cork, Ireland.  Personally I am happy to be visiting Cobh/Cork, although I imagine a good many passengers will miss the shopping for crystal at Waterford.  The reason for the change is that we will be able to dock in Cobh rather than tendering in Waterford, since there will be significant wave action at East Dunsmore (although I suspect it may also have something to do with all the trouble the tenders were having yesterday).

As I mentioned in the last blog posting, the Prinsendam is the largest cruise ship to visit Foynes—and the Prinsendam is quite small compared to most of today’s ships.  But we are able to tie up at the dock which is the farthest point in the River Shannon estuary that large ships can navigate.  Foynes’ two claims to fame are related:  the landing of the first transatlantic Pan Am flights from America (there is a museum dedicated to these flying clippers) and the invention of Irish Coffee (by some very tired pilots).  For cruise passengers, Foynes is mostly useful as a jumping off point for seeing this part of western Ireland.  My schedule for the day is an excursion to the city of Limerick, higher up the River Shannon.

Limerick itself doesn’t have much to lure the tourist.  It is, however, a big draw for immigrants and has a large Polish and Muslim population.  Although our local guide is quite knowledgeable, he spends most of his describing buildings that have disappeared over the ages or are hidden behind the facades of more modern buildings.  King John’s Castle (from the 10^th century) is quite formidable and there is an excellent art museum.  The highlight of the tour is the complementary genuine Irish Coffee and the free wifi at a fine local pub, The Locke.

 

So it’s back to the ship for a light lunch and then a walk from one end of the town of Foynes to the other—which takes a whole 10 minutes.  Tonight’s dinner is tomato caprese salad, sauerbraten with red cabbage and ship-made spaeztle.  Appropriately, dessert is Sacher Torte.  Instead of starting a new bottle of wine I opt for a beer—good choice!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tonight we are sailing the short distance from Plymouth to Port St Peter on Guernsey, the Channel Islands.

Sunday 11 August 2013
Day at Sea

When I left off yesterday’s blog (departure from Dublin), the plan was to sail north then westward around the top of Northern Island.  But this morning Captain Tim tells us that the weather report for that route was not good, so instead we are sailing south around the bottom of Ireland and then up the west coast and into Galway Bay early tomorrow morning.  Since today is a sea day the change of route does not affect passengers in any way except to insure smoother sailing (which has been pretty smooth the whole trip so far). 

It’s a good day to relax and catch up on the blog and, of course, eat:  formal tea at 3pm, cocktails and hors d’ouerves with a group of other passengers at 7pm, and the second formal dinner at 8pm.  The sliced duck breast with sweetened figs (yummy) is so much better than on that other ship that shall go unnamed.  The cream cheese gateau for dessert is not bad either.  The folks at the large table next to mine (the group I had drinks with earlier), continues to invite me to join them at dinner, but I continue to beg off.  I am sure I will join them one night, but their table is a bit too crowded right now.
 

Monday, 12 August 2013

Galway, Ireland

Since the tenders are delayed this morning I have time for a leisurely breakfast in the dining room before heading ashore at 9:15.  I don’t have to wait long for the tender to depart, but it is a 20-minute ride across Galway Bay to the shore—and the boat (also used as a lifeboat during emergencies!) stalls out.  It takes a while for the pilot to get it started again, but we eventually make it to shore.  Galway is a pleasant small city suitable for walking, although the weather is typically Irish, shifting from clouds to sun to blustery winds.  There isn’t much to see in the city itself, except for the aptly-named “Shop Street” that cuts through the center.  There is, however, a lovely walk along the river to the RC Cathedral.  A large inland fisheries installation provides excellent salmon fishing right in the urban environment.

 

 

Back at the pier, I’m at the head of the line for the tenders.  The first tender unloads but won’t take any passengers back to the ship because of mechanical problems.  It starts to be a long wait as one or two tour buses arrive back at the pier.  There is now a pretty long line of pretty unhappy folks standing (no seats anywhere) in the rather warm afternoon sun.  A second tender arrives, but—you guessed it—this one has mechanical problems as well (it’s the one that stalled out earlier this morning).  Finally one of the wounded tenders is ready for service and we make it back to the Prinsendam safely.  Everyone is very happy when Captain Tim announces that tomorrow’s call at Foynes will use the dock rather than tenders as originally planned.

On the ship I have a late lunch of cheeseburger and fries, and the tuna tartare with jumbo prawn, the appetizer at dinner, is very good.  Tomorrow morning we sail up the Shannon River Estuary.  The last time the Prinsendam visited here it was the largest ship ever to dock.  Captain Tim believes we will keep that record tomorrow.

 

 

 

Sorry about the typos in this morning's blog from Limerick--but I was drinking Irish Coffee and it was dark in the pub.

Friday and Saturday 9-10 August 2013

Dublin, Ireland

I couldn’t ask for a more perfect day to arrive in Dublin.  The port is very close to the center of the city; you can see the ship from the O’Connell Street Bridge downtown.  The ship offers a free double-decker shuttle that runs every half hour, and it is only a short walk to the last stop on the new tram line that stretches across the north side of the city from east to west.  Taxis are also available.  I will make use of all these methods of transportation over the two days the Prinsendam spends here.

Friday

It’s 10am and the shuttle coach fills just as the line almost gets to me.  Rather than wait a half hour, I hop a taxi into the city, driven by a young native Dubliner, whose language is clear and understandable.  He says it is the result of watching too much American television, the bane of those who would like to preserve the local dialects.  The Michelin Guide outlines several good walking tours that allow me to see the major sights in doable sections.  I’ve been to Dublin twice before (1969 and 1994), but the city has been spruced up quite a bit and local transportation is quite good.  My route today starts at the Bank of Ireland Building (used as parliament in the early days of the Republic) and the campus of Trinity College in the heart of the city (although the line to see The Book of Kells, the famous medieval manuscript, is much too long to waste my time on; I have seen it before and you can check it out on the web).

 

 

 

I pay a short visit to the Kilkenny Shops, a collection of Irish-made goods from around the country, ranging from cheap postcards to thousand-dollar Waterford crystal decanters. It’s a good place to shop if you are not going anywhere but Dublin.  I continue on to Merrion Square, the heart of Georgian Dublin (famous in all those “Doorways of Dublin” posters).  The National Gallery, nearby, offers a small but excellent selection of European painting, perfect for those who wish to see major works by the masters, but don’t want to spend a lot of time or walking-energy doing it.  The Millennium Wing, opened recently squeezes a light-filled atrium into the center of the building.  The outside is not particularly attractive, but the interior is quite successful.  Of course, there is a first-rate gift shop as well.  From the Gallery it’s a short walk to Stephen’s Green Shopping Mall at the top of Grafton Street, the main pedestrian shopping area of the city.  (To the south lies St. Stephen’s Green, a fine park with memorial statues of Yeats and Joyce, but that’s too far to walk today—especially since I am looking for an American Express office to charge some Euros on my credit card and a camera shop to deal with a problem with my Canon camera.  I don’t find either; I learn later that American Express has closed all its store-front operations in Ireland and the loose part on my camera is inconvenient but fortunately does not interfere with taking pictures).

 

 

 

 

Stephen’s Green Shopping Mall is a convenient place for a quick lunch and coffee and afterwards I head north on Grafton Street (mostly shops familiar from American malls) to the River Liffey, Ha’penny Bridge, and Temple Bar, a section of town designed for tourists, eating, and drinking—no matter what the time of day.  Dublin Castle stands right by Temple Bar, but I’ve been there on my previous visits, so I head for St Patrick’s Cathedral, but I refuse to pay the €2.00 admission fee.  Interesting:  all the museums in Ireland are free, but you have to pay to go to church.  I cross over the river and take the aforementioned tram eastward to the last stop, a short walk from the Port and the Prinsendam.

Tonight’s dinner is highlighted by Frogs Legs Provencale and Coleman’s Roast Beef (sliced thin and very tender) with Yorkshire pudding.  Dessert is sherry trifle.  It’s remarkable that Holland America does a much better job with typical British food than Cunard does.  After dinner a local band plays Irish music in the Showroom at Sea, but they are so bad I can stand the clatter for only a few minutes.  It’s hard to get used to sleeping without moving, but we are spending the night in Dublin, so I must try.

Saturday

Before leaving the ship this morning, I use the web to arrange a ticket for this afternoon’s 2pm matinee of Shaw’s Major Barbara at the world-famous Abbey Theatre.  There is definitely an advantage to tonight’s 11pm departure time.  After breakfast I catch the 10:30am shuttle to Kildare Street, close to everything.  Since the Abbey Theatre is on the north side of the Liffey, I spend time exploring this part of town (another Michelin walking tour route).  O’Connell Street, with its wide promenade and major statuary, used to be the center of fashionable life in Dublin.  Now that has all moved to Grafton Street (see above) on the south side of the river.  O’Connell Street is somewhat rundown, but very busy with Saturday shoppers and folks on their way to the football match, wearing red or green, the colors of the team they will be rooting for.  It’s all very festive, with none of the menace that used to be attached to Irish and English rivalries. 

This side of the river is also home to the General Post Office Building (site of the Battle of the Rising), Parnall Square, the Garden of Remembrance, the Dublin Writers’ Museum, and the Hugh Lane Art Gallery.  The Gallery has a lovely small café with an excellent choice of sandwiches and salads for lunch.  The Gate, another of Dublin’s major theatres, is nearby, and the Abbey is only a few blocks away.  I have time for an excellent latte in the theatre bar before the performance begins.  As with much of Shaw, the first act is talky and slow-moving, but the production picks up steam in the second and third acts, providing the appropriate ironic touch to the ending.  The theatre is newly-built (1960s), the original having been destroyed by fire.  The theatre company itself was founded by W. B. Yeats and Lady Gregory to cultivate traditional Irish language and culture.  The founders did not foresee that their cultured Irish audience would literally riot—throwing everything, including the chairs, at the stage—during the first performance of Sean O’Casey’s The Plough and the Stars in 1917.  When the chairs were later nailed to the floor, the protesting patrons ripped them up to throw at the stage.  What was the protest about?  The good citizens of Dublin simply refused to believe that there were any prostitutes in Ireland or to accept the realistic view of Dublin life that O’Casey puts on the stage.  They all wanted to see the idealized Ireland that never existed and were unwilling to accept the truth of life put before them.  Well, in spite of its raucous beginnings and lack of local support, modern and post-modern Irish drama is some of the best in the world.

 

 

I catch the last shuttle back to the ship and settle in for a good dinner and quiet night before our 11pm sailing.  Tomorrow is a welcome restful day at sea.  The Captain tells us that we will be taking the route northward around the top of Ireland and then down the west coast to Galway.  Between 7 and 10am we will pass through the narrow North Passage between Northern Ireland and the east coast of Scotland; both coasts should be visible from the ship, so I ask for an early wake-up call to watch the views from my veranda.  But things don’t always go as planned at sea . . . wait for the next blog entry for the sequel.

 

 

 

Special edition

This is a special edition blog posting coming to you live from Thr Locke Pub in Limerick, Ireland, where I am enjoying an Irish Coffee and free wifi at the end of a walking tour of the city.  I don't have my notes so I can't continue on with recounting my two-day visit to Dublin.  But I will get to that when I am back on the Prinsendam.

But today we sailed as far up the Shannon as the small town of Foynes, where we are able to dock and don't have to use the tenders that caused so much trouble yesterday in Galway.  The Prinsendam is the largest cruise ship to ever dock in Foynes ( this is its second visit) and I nderstand I missed quite a complicated docking maneuver earlier this morning.  After breakfast the coach takes about 30 minutes to reach Limerick, a town with quite a bit of history going back to the Normans and the Middle Ages.  Unfortunately, most that history has been destroyed or hidden behind ugly modern facades.  Although the guide, a local Limerick man, tries hard to give some interesting history lessons, there really isn't much to see on this walking tour.

The countryside is quite lush, however, the Irish Coffee is excellent and strong, and I ppeciate the chance to blog without the meter running.  But now the guide is calling.  Tonight I will continue with my chronological report on Dublin.

Cheers

I’m trying to catch up so I will talk about Milford Haven and Liverpool in this blog entry.

Wednesday 7 August 2013
Milford Haven, Wales

We drop anchor on the south side of Milford Haven harbor around 7:30am.  After an excellent room-service breakfast, I go through UK immigration and hand in my passport, which will be returned next week after we depart from Plymouth.  I am on a shore excursion today; tender-loading goes quickly and the coach is off to the ruins of Carew Castle and the seaside town of Tenby, both in South Pembrokeshire, Wales.

The ruins of Carew Castle are pretty much what you might expect from a place that has seen constant warfare—with the Normans, the British and the French—over a period of 1500 years.  The place is very evocative of another time and it contrasts with the castles that have been fully restored.  There are constant disagreements about whether to restore or leave these places as they are, and the argument will probably never be resolved. 

 

The weather is lovely and it is a short drive from here to Tenby, a seaside resort that began as a religious settlement in the Middle Ages, but became fashionable in the 18^th and 19^th centuries. Today is a market and a fair day so the town is crowded with locals and tourists, creative a festive atmosphere. One section of town sits behind the remaining parts of the town walls: narrow streets, cobblestones, shops, pubs, and restaurants. Another part of the town looks out over the water. There is a good swimmer’s beach and, since it is currently low tide, lots of fishing boats sitting on damp soil until the next tide comes in.

 

 

The coach brings us back to the ship in time for Welsh Cookies on the pier, a light lunch, and high tea in the dining room (becoming a habit)—today I do have scones with jam and clotted cream, along with the sandwiches and pastry.  I have my hair cut in the ship’s salon ($15. after my loyalty discount) and come back to my clean laundry returned to my stateroom (I have an unlimited laundry package for 14 days for $98.—pretty good deal; I wish I had something like that at home).

 

 

 

 

You are probably getting bored with my discussions of food so I will leave off for a while, with just a brief report that the Wiener Schnitzel tonight is excellent.

Thursday 8 August 2013

Liverpool, UK

Today is the highlight of the trip so far.  Dirty, industrial Liverpool has been transformed into a vibrant city with a magnificently restored Mersey Riverfront (remember “Ferry Cross the Mersey,” Jerry and the Pacemakers, circa1965?).  I stopped here briefly in 1969 on my way to catch the overnight ferry to Dublin and remember spending a rainy afternoon at the movies (don’t ask what the movie was, even I can’t remember that).

Docking has been delayed one hour because of the tides.  The Mersey has one of the largest tide differentials in the world (the difference between low and high tides), and ships are at the mercy of nature when sailing these waters.  But everything on today’s schedule—tours and evening departure from Liverpool—are put off an hour as well.  I have a 3½-hour morning tour of the city, so it’s breakfast in my stateroom again, before heading off the gangway onto the floating pier.  The pier allows large cruise ships, including the QM2, to dock in the city center, and Liverpool is starting to rival Southampton as a destination for transatlantic passages.  The coach tour gives a good introduction to the various parts of the city, stopping at St George’s Hall in the center of town; the recently completed very modern RC Metropolitan Cathedral; the suburbs associated with the Beatles (“Penny Lane”); and the huge Anglican Cathedral, also recently completed but begun 150 years ago.

 

 

 

 












The bus drops us at Albert Dock, the huge riverfront restoration project, actually only a short walk from the ship.  In addition to apartments and condos, there are a large number of shops and restaurants, as well as several fine museums—all free to the public:  the Tate Liverpool, the Maritime Museum, the Museum of Slavery, and the new Liverpool City Museum.  I have energy only for the first two on that list, because I also want to explore the Victorian architectural gems lined up across the street, and get back to the shopping areas in the center of the city.

The Three Graces—the Liverpool Ports Building, the Cunard Building, and the Liverpool Assurance Society Building—are lined up across the street from the docks.  Bastions of the cultural and economic standards of the 19^th century, they have been elegantly cleaned and restored.  The Liver Bird (pronounced as in “alive”), one of the symbols of the city, stands perched atop the Assurance Society.  From a later date, the still-elegant art deco ventilation tower for the Mersey River Vehicular Tunnel completes the picture.  Just a few blocks away the pedestrianized shopping streets and a three-level inner-city mall, Liverpool One, await the intrepid.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It has been another beautiful day and it ends perfectly as we sail for Dublin at 8:30pm.  The sun doesn’t go down until 10pm so there is beautiful fading light as I stand on the Promenade Deck after a dinner highlighted by Chicken Kiev.

We are scheduled to reach Dublin early tomorrow and have two full days to enjoy.