Friday Evening 6 February 2015
Siem Reap, Cambodia

I've just returned from my second wonderful dinner here at the hotel. The service is elegant; each course is presented on interesting wooden platters and pottery plates, with each element in perfect harmony of design and taste.  The menu is large and varied, with many Cambodian specialities.  Last night I had fried spring rolls appetizer, with five (count them again) served in an elegant wooden box, followed by a dish with shrimp, rice, and local vegetables. Tonight I enjoy cold cucumbers stuffed with a slightly spicy mix of vegetables and pork and peppers.  The cucumbers were small, but there were four of them!  Followed by chicken with rice, basil, and lemon grass. All of this capped off with three scoops of sorbet: chocolate, vanilla, and pistachio.  I was certainly hungry after surviving, barely, eight hours of guided sightseeing at the ruins of Angkor Wat, the surrounding city of Angkor Thom, and several additional temples ("wat" is the word for temple in most southeast Asian languages).  But you will have to wait for the next posting to get all the details; for now I turn back the clock to yesterday to continue on with my arrival at this fabulous place and my afternoon wanderings around the town.

Thursday 5 February 2015
Singapore to Siem Reap

Everything goes smoothly from my early morning taxi drive to the Singapore Airport to breakfast at McDonald's to a non-stop flight on SilkAir (a subsidiary of Singapore Airlines), including an empty seat next to me, until the rather bumpy landing.  The Siem Reap airport is currently undergoing a vast construction project that will probably destroy the pleasant quaintness of the present one.  There are no jetways, but a canopied staircase and a short walk to the terminal building.  The weather is delightful--and suprisingly cool this morning.  I have no problem using my e-visa that I purchased on line just before leaving home (it takes only 3 days to process and costs only $30.); every country should make it so easy for travellers.  Outside the airport a rep from the Angkor Village Hotel is waiting with a sign with my name, ready to drive the five miles to the hotel.  

Located in the center of the city, with shops and restaurants everywhere--even two temples close enough to walk to--the Angkor Village Hotel is a calm tropical oasis in this tourist-crazy city.  All the guestrooms are suites, interconnected by garden walkways resembling a traditional Cambodian stilt village.  The place is quite luxurious, the mattress the hardest I've slept on in a long time (that's good) and very friendly service from young Cambodians who speak excellent English.  

I did change a small amount of currency at the airport, but that was really unnecessary since prices for everything are posted in US dollars. After settling in I have lunch--don't snigger--at the Angkor Hard Rock Cafe, just a few blocks away.  I am then ready to explore the lovely walk along the river, two local but very large temple complexes, and the very busy commercial and tourist heart of the city; the name of one of the busy streets will give you an idea of the tenor of the area:  "Pub Street."  In addition to all the local cafes and shops there are many US franchises, including KFC and McDonald's.  

Like everywhere else I have been on this trip, the streets are very safe from any kind of petty crime, although the traffic will probably kill the unwary tourist.  The only bother, really, are all the young men offering tuk-tuk rides to wherever you wish to go.  These are small, open two-seat carriages attached to mostly motorcycles, and sometimes even bicycles.  The rates are really cheap and no one is bothered when you refuse an offered ride.

Today is a very busy day here because it is the final day of the Interntional Tourism and Travel Conference, the first time ever it has been held in Cambodia.  Even the King will be here today for the closing ceremonies.  My closing ceremonies include a lovely dinner (with two beers) and a good night's sleep in preparation for the arduous tasks awaiting tomorrow (just to give a hint, they mostly involve going up and down very scary sets of staircases).