Wednesday 30 March 2016
A Full Day in Singapore

After a restful and smooth night on board the Nautica, we arrive early this morning at Singapore's very modern and very busy cruiseport. From my starboard-side veranda I have closeup views of Sentosa Island, home to a variety of theme parks and family fun places as well as several large resorts.  The visitor can reach Sentosa by walking across a low-lying bridge, riding a monorail across the same bridge, taking a ferry from the cruiseport, or riding in the cable car that stretches from the heights of Mount Faber on Singapore Island to the center of Sentosa--none of which I will do today.  From the port side of the ship, Harbourpoint--a huge office and shopping center (with the largest mall in Singapore)--is only a short jump away.

Although the skies are clear, the heat and humidity are very debilitating.  When I spent four days here in mid-February 2015 it didn't seem quite so awful.  So my original plan to walk the Mount Faber walkway (which gives a sense of the rural side of Singapore), gets saved for the next visit.  Instead, I take the MTR (Singapore Metro) to the city center, about a 15-minute ride from the cruiseport.

My first stop is at Clark's Quay, which runs several blocks along the north side of the Singapore River.  What used to be a series of rundown 19th-century "go-downs" (merchant warehouses and residences) has been restored and is now a trendy location for bars and restaurants.

From Clark's Quay it is a short walk to the National Museum of Singapore, which I missed on my last visit.  I pass several important monuments and government buildings along the way.

Marina Bay Sands Hotel (in the distance)

Elgin Bridge over Singapore River

New Supreme Court Building 

Central Fire Station

Parliament Building 

Fort Canning British Soldier Memorial Wall

Entrance Gate to Fort Canning Park

The museum consists of two buildings: one a traditional colonial structure with spacious exhibit rooms and a dome that filters light coming in; the other a post-modern addition constructed of metal and glass.  The two buildings are successfully joined together by glass walls and walkways and the four levels of the new wing are centered by huge escalators. The prize-winning architectural design of the building is very impressive, and the historical exhibits are arranged with much imagination and insight.  Halfway through my tour of the history of Singapore, I have a light lunch in one of the museum's several cafes.

 

The musuem is located in the arts and cultural center of the city, also home to several theatres and the University of Singapore's School of Arts (the School of Management is right next door).  By early afternoon I am ready for some cooler air, so I take the Metro (like an ice-box) back to Harbourpoint, where I browse the shops in the city's largest mall before rejoining the ship.

 School of the Arts Building

There is so much to do and see in Singapore that a one-day visit can only give a brief sample. And though I have been here twice before, I am anxious to return (when the humidity isn't quite so bad) for another longer visit.  Singapore is the last of the ports that I have previously visited.  From tonight onward, I am exporing new worlds: Phuket (Thailand), Yongan and Bagan (Myanamar), Cochin (India) and Mumbai (India).  From Mumbai, of course, I will be visiting several cities in the northern part of India:  Varanasi, Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur.

Tuesday 29 March 2016
At Sea from Saigon to Singapore

I have just returned from a second dinner in the Polo Grill:  escargot in pastry puff floating in a parsley-garlic broth, Caesar salad created table-side, two Florida lobster tails with haricots vert, Key Lime Pie.  I also finished off the bottle of Pinot Noir that I started three days ago.

Today was a relaxing day at sea and I am happy to report that the sailing is smooth as glass. Even though all the days ashore have been at least partly sunny, the sailing nights have not been fun--in fact, the worst I have experienced (but I think I have been pretty lucky in my 17 cruises; this is only the second time that I have used a medical patch to prevent queasyness).

And I am only one day behind in my postings, so I shall get right to yesterday's activites in Saigon.

Monday 28 March 2016
A Free Day in Saigon

Since the Nautica is docked farther from the city than originally scheduled, Oceania has arranged for free shuttle buses to make the one hour 15 minute drive to the city center.  I take the first bus, which leaves port at 8:15, spend most of the day in the city, and then shuttle back to the ship at 4:15, which gets us aboard just prior to the 6:00pm sailing.

I'll begin with a reminder that the Vietnamese use "Saigon" and "Ho Chi Minh City," almost interchangeably.  Southerners, who are typically better educated and more sophisticated (that's what the locals say), tend to identify the city as Saigon.  Those from the northern half of the country, call it HCMC.  Whatever you call it, Saigon is the largest city in the country and is booming with both private construction (huge post-modern skyscrapers) and public infrastructure projects (highways, bridges, and a new Metro system still under construction).  

Saigon Central Committee Building

Although there are few signs in English, with the help of a map it is very easy to get around the city on foot.  Almost everyone speaks English, and locals are always happy to give directions or just to have a chat.

I follow a walking tour from my guidebook that takes me to the most important sites in District I (downtown).  I don't mind revisiting places I saw last year, because I am free to spend as much time as I like, instead of being herded by a guide.  These places include the former RC Cathedral, the French-designed central post office, the Opera House, and the Saigon Central Committee building.  But today I also have time to visit the shops and hotels that line the main streets.  I have lunch in a bistro at the Sheraton Hotel--which also provides some welcome rest time.  

19-Century Central Post Office

 

The city is quite safe for tourists, except when trying to cross the street. Drivers pay no attention to traffic lights or signals (just like in Naples, Italy), so the secret is to step into the street, close one's eyes, and confidently walk at a steady pace.  Somehow, the drivers (mostly on motorbikes) are adept at weaving through the pedestrians without hitting anyone.  Although I understand that there are many pedestrian fatalities throughout the year ( not that different from Tucson).   

 Ordinary Noon-Time Traffic

 French Cathedral

Municipal Opera House

 Five-Story Shopping Mall

Bitexco Tower with Helipad at 2/3 of the Height

I enjoy the quiet bus trip--no silly commentary by the driver--back to the ship. 

Monday 28 March 2016
Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City)

Before starting off on today's adventure to Saigon, I will post photos from yesterdays "Mekong River" excursion.

Passing Rice Fields on the Route from the Port to My Tho

One of many Toll Booths on the Way

                             ***
                                                    Vhin Trang Pagoda

 ***             

Mekong River at My Tho

Lunch on Thoi Son Island
***
Sampan Ride Through Thoi Son Bamboo Swamp

The next posting will cover my day on my own in Saigon--so please come back for more.

Sunday, 27 March 2016
On the Road from Phu My to the Mekong River Delta

Today was totally filled by a very long shore excursion exploring various aspects of the Mekong Delta, the largest rice-producing area in the world. Travelling on a variety of transports--including a tourist boat on the Mekong River, a shallow canoe steered by locals through a dense bamboo swamp, and a modern bus for travelling from the ship to the river and back again--we covered a large swath of the countryside around Saigon as well as two islands in the Mekong itself.  Some of the older roads are little more than glorified trails (and quite bumpy) and some are brand new expressways (still bumpy).  But the bus itself is far advanced over the buses at home, offering free wifi for the whole trip.

Before describing the details of today's excursion, I am going to post a few more photos from the end of yesterday.  Uploading photos on ships is very slow (as I have mentioned several times in the past), but since Oceania offers free, unlimited wifi time, I don't mind the lack of speed.  I set up some photos for upload and then go about doing other things in my stateroom while the process goes on.

Saturday, 26 March 2016
Shore Excursion from Nha Trang

Fresh Fruit at Country Estate

Small Private Home with Kitchen

 

Sunday, 27 March
Shore Excursion from Phu My to the Mekong River Delta

Last night was another pleasant night at sea. Despite the captain's warning about rough conditions, there was little more than a gentle rolling that hardly affected me at all.  

The “Mekong River Cruise” begins this morning with a two-hour drive to the city of My Tho, in the heart of the Mekong Delta.  Because the Nautica is docked significantly farther from Saigon than originally scheduled, the bus trip is also proportionally longer than originally planned.  We pass through lovely tableaus of waving green rice fields and small villages with their ramshackle shops and homes before a brief pause at the Mekong Rest Stop, an elaborately landscaped rest area for travellers (just like on the NJ Turnpike!).

The main attraction in My Tho is the elaborate Vinh Trang Pagoda.  The terms "temple" and "pagoda" are used interchangeably in Southeast Asia; unlike in Japan where a pagoda is a specific type of architecture.  This pagoda is home to two giant Buddha statues:  a seated laughing male Buddha and a serenely elegant sleeping female Buddha.

From the pagoda it is just a short bus ride to the riverfront, where we board a local "tourist" boat (capable of seating about 50, the load is much smaller today), that takes us downriver and under a new suspension bridge to Thoi Son Island, one of 11 inhabited islands in this part of the delta.  We are regaled with a lunch of local specialties, which a server prepares individually for each diner at the table:  crunchy spring rolls, Elephant Ear Fish meat wrapped in rice paper (the fish is so named becaus of its appearance),  a broth with chicken and shrimp, large prawns (which the server delicately beheads and peels for us), and a sticky-rice ball.

After lunch we take a short trek across the island to the swamp where small boats (four passengers in each) take us on a 15-minute trip through the dark waters surrounded by immense bamboo trees.  I can't see any life in the water, but I do recognize the large termite hives hanging from the higher branches.  Each boat has two local rowers, whose only English is about money and tips--which gets a little annoying.  I have already handed out a few dollar bills to some young men (partially paralyzed by polio), who are trying to sell books and postcards to support themselves.  

After emerging into the sunshine from the cool darkness of the swamp we head for another small island to watch demonstrations of coconut paper-making, honey gathering, and the serving of local fruits.  Unfortunately it is somewhat marred by the aggressive sales techniques offering Royal Bee Jelly, which if eaten is supposed to prevent diabetes, and if rubbed in the skin provides a beautiful smooth complexion.  At ten dollars each for a very small jar, I decide that I am fine with my wrinkles and will use my diet to prevent diabetes.

After a return boat trip to My Tho, it is time for a peacful two-hour drive back to the ship that gets us her eshortly after 7pm.  I have dinner in the Terrace Cafe and skip the entertainment so that I can prepare for tomorrow's day on my own in Saigon.

It's already after bed-time, so I'll save today's pictures for the next posting.

Friday 25 March 2015

Sailing from Hong Kong to Nha Trang

The overnight sea passage was not as bad as the captain predicted and I enjoyed a really good night’s sleep.  This morning I have breakfast in the Grand Dining Room and then attend a presentation on shore excursions available in Vietnam.  Later this morning the guest lecturer, Professor Teofilo Ruiz, offers the first in a series of lectures on the development of human civilization in Southeast Asia, covering the development of pre-hominids into humans as the world changed from societies of hunter-gatherers to societies based on agriculture and language.

Even though I enjoy an excellent Italian lunch on the outdoor deck of the Terrace Café, I still indulge in high tea at 4:30pm.  The highlight of tea is the Australian Lemington layer cake (which I have enjoyed on other cruises--I must get the recipe); the scones, unfortunately, were not very good at all.  After a relaxing day I have a light dinner in the Terrace Café, deciding that four meals a day is really way too much.

Saturday 26 March 2015

Sailing from Nha Trang to Saigon, Vietnam

Happily I awake to bright skies and sunshine this morning as we sail into the beautiful harbor of Nha Trang.  This is my second visit to the city and since I did the city highlights tour last year--again, there are pictures on the blog--I opt for a different tour today.

Since the tour begins at 9:15, I indulge in room service breakfast.  The Nautica docks at exactly 9am as scheduled and soon I am off on a tour of "Rural Nha Trang."  The bus heads north from the cruiseport through the heart of the city, along the beautiful beachfront boulevard.  Nha Trang's beaches are known as the best in Vietnam and the bus ride allows for spectacular views.  We are heading for our first stop at a local Buddhist Temple and school where we can watch (and listen) as the youngsters learn their ABC's (I think they knew we were coming).  

NHa Trang Beaches and High-Rise Hotels

Sailing into Nha Trang Harbor

 Nha Trang Harbor

Nha Trang Beachfront

                       Nha Trang Beachfront Parl

***

Local Buddhist Temple and School

The temple is still within the crowded metropolis, but we are soon driving into the countryside for a visit to a local market that is the primary shopping stop for residents.  There is an enormous display of fruits and vegetables and smaller stalls where fish and meat are prepared for sale.  From the market we take a short walk to the Community Hall, where civic and religious events are celebrated.  In the courtyard we see a demonstration of mat weaving by three generations of one family:  79-year old grandfather, daughter, and grand-daughter all help weaving the mats from the abundant bamboo strips available all over Vietnam.

The next stops on the tour are the most interesting.  We first visit a private home--estate is more appropriate--along the banks of a small river.  We are serenaded by a three-piece band playing traditional instruments, while we enjoy platters of fresh, local fruit.  The estate has a large swimming pool and several guest houses.  The next visit takes us to a more typical house, with three rooms, including a small but utilitarian kitchen.

Further out in the countryside we ride along beautiful rice fields, with the grains swaying gently in the breeze.  We stop for a rather Disney-like demonstration of rice-harvesting, but are rewarded with more realistic views of the local animals used to help with the hard work.  The last stop of the tour is a small rice-paper workshop where we witness the transformation of the small grains into sheets of fine writing paper.

It's a relaxing 45 minute drive back to the pier where we arrive at 2pm.  Fortunately the dining venues have been kept open later than usual so folks out on tour can still enjoy a good lunch--I have a wonderful surf and turf sandwich (lobster and steak) from the Waves Grill on the deck near the pool.

After lunch is a good time for some rest to prepare for tonight's dinner in the Polo Grill, another one of the specialty restaurants on board the Nautica:  jumbo shrimp cocktail, lobster bisque, NY strip steak with battered onion rings, and vanilla ice cream.  I start a bottle of Robert Mondavi Pinot Noir Carneros (2013), which I will finish at another meal.  The captain has indicated that we will have a rough night at sea, but he promises to be another bright day when we get to Phu My, the port of Saigon tomorrow.