Monday 11 April 2016

Mumbai, India

Welcome to Mumbia, City of a Thousand Cities (I just created its new slogan).  Although I have seen barely the surface of this incredible metropolis, I must say that it is mind-boggling and bewildering in its sheer magnitude and its gamut of environments, from my hotel (which is like a quiet, formal version of the most upper-class Las Vegas hotel—especially its lobby and luxurious shops); to the congested streets of the surrounding neighborhood, Colaba, with its door-to-door shops and restaurants; to the quiet, leafy street just around the corner that is lined with well-kept Victorian apartment buildings (as well as the “Merry Weather” Water Pumping Station). And I have hardly begun to explore the city

But first. my day begins with another early wake up, well before the alram.  I have been sleeping fitfully the past several nights; it is certainly not the fault of the ship (sailing has been very smooth) so it must be that I am getting too much rest.  And then comes the needlessly frustrating process of disembarkation.

This is one area in which Oceania needs improvement.  I know the Indian authorities are notoriously slow and arbitrary (one customs inspector for the line of passengers getting off the ship with their luggage). But the real problems begin on the ship:  entry and exit lines are mixed up and confusing and the staff can't steem to keep any order.  This occurred last December in Miami as well, so I think it is more than just because we are in India.  Oceania needs to work on this.  No excuse for this kind of unpleasant chaos on a ship with under 700 passengers. (And isn't it convenient that we turn in our reviews of the cruise before disembarkation!)

I make it through all the repetitive exiting procedures with the help of a bagman for my luggage, who leads me the short distance outside to where an Audley Travel rep is waiting with a sign with my name. A very solicitous and helpful young man takes my luggage through all the necessary scanning checks and loads me in his AC-ed van for the short ride to the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, one of the most familiar symbols of Mumbai (on the news with a very deadly terrorist attack several years ago). Another Audley employee joins us as we exit the security area of the pier; he will help with my check in at the hotel and arrange for my pickup on Wedenesday morning to fly to Varanasi.

The hotel is quite spectacular and I have a view of the northern parts of the city from my eleventh floor window.  I am in the modern "new" wing of the hotel, but I am able to wander through the lobby and public areas of the "original" wing, with all their Victorian splendor. I had e-mailed the concierge at the hotel several times before and during the trip, so I was lucky enough to have my room ready for check-in when we reach the hotel shortly before 10am.  The registration process is quick and a lovely young lady in traditional costume escorts my to my room; my luggage arrives very quickly afterward, along with a fruity drink concotion that is much too sweet. But it's the thought that counts.

 

My body decides a nap is in order and I somehow sleep for a good five hours.  Refreshed and awake, I stop for a snack in one of the hotels shops and then make my first foray into the wild urban jungle of Mumbai.  The India Gate, one of the final native glorifications of the British, stands at the water's edge across the street from the hotel.

India Gate

Exterior of Original Part of Taj Mahal Palace Hotel

My Idea of a Selfie (with old watch)

My First Portrait in Over 1400 Photos!

The weather is much more pleasant than I feared; cool breezes from the sea help mitigate the humidity.  It is certainly more comfortantle than Singapore or Yangon.  And my first introduction to the city makes it seem much less intimidating than the guidebooks claim.  Streets are crowded, but no worse than NYC, and locals are helpful and polite.  There is some begging, but touts keep their distance and generally leave me alone.   

Colaba Street Scenes

 

One Way Up and One Way Down

 

"Merry Weather" Water Pumping Station

Victorian Apartments

 

I treat myself to a spectacular dinner at the Golden Dragon, the Chinese retaurant in the hotel.  The food is as good as anywhere I have eaten and the service is quietly elegant.  Of course, I order and eat much too much.  The table is set with a soft cold stuffed lichi that is so good I am glad the waiter brings me another.  There is also on the table an appetizer tray filled with spiced cabbage, candied pineapple, soy sauce, and hot chile sauce.  First come crispy fried prawns served in pastry shells (three of them); slightly spicy but crunchy and good. I almost finish all three.  This is followed by the hottest (temperature as well as spice level) vegetable hot and sour soup I have ever struggled to eat, so blackly inky it looked as if dredged up from the bottom of the sea.  I didn't quite make it to the bottom of the bowl--I should have brushed my teeth with lidocaine on purpose tonight (sorry, private joke).  The main course (and the last) is diced chicken and celery in a fresh lemon broth.  The bottle of bear and the glass of sparkling water helps it all go down smoothly.

It's time for sleep on land again, but I will be back after I explore more of Mumbai tomorrow.