Monday, 23 December 2024

Machu Picchu, Peru

Today is the big day for Machu Picchu. As soon as we decided on this trip I signed up for an all-day tour. I am very glad I did because all the transportation, transfers, and guides are taken care of. At every stage I only have to look for a sign with my name to move on to the next stage.

I am ready for my 5:40am pickup from the Hilton as I join other travelers to journey even farther up in elevation to reach the PeruRail station at Poroy, a mountain suburb of Cusco. There are several different kinds of trains available, from the very expensive Hiram Bingham Express to the much cheaper Expedition Class. I am booked on the Vistadome, with better service and amenities, set to leave at 6:30am.

The train travels at a very slow speed (max 25kph), and takes almost four hours to reach the town of Aguas Calientes (aka Machu Picchu Pueblo), the end of the line. The train fills up completely as it makes two brief stops along the way

Aguas Calientes is bright and colorful, full of hotels, restaurants, and gift shops. The Urubama River runs through the center, and there is literally only one street on each side. I will return here for a late lunch after touring the ruins. From here, buses take visitors--see the waiting line in the photo below--up a road of treacherous curves and setbacks to the ruins themselves.

The tour group consists of four of us and our excellent guide, Paul. We exit the bus at the bottom of the site, and as soon as I see the long flight of stairs, without any handrails, leading up just to the ticket office, I begin to think this whole adventure might be a big mistake. But I have my cane and I work my way up. What I then discover is that we are at the very bottom of the site and we must climb up a long series of irregular wooden and stone steps to reach the entrance at the top. Most of you are aware that I am totally blind in my left eye, which affects my depth perception, especially at near distances. I usually have no problem when the steps are evenly spaced and there are handrails. Here, the stone steps are completely random and the wooden steps have few handrails. The walk is not physically difficult, but I have trouble telling where to put my feet and I am terribly at risk of falling.

Fortunately, Paul is there to help every step of the way up, and then all the steps down, as we explore the site. My travel bag hangs around my right shoulder, my cane is in my right hand, my camera is carried by Paul, and my left hand is on Paul's shoulder for almost the entire two-hour tour. I am able to walk unassisted on flat surfaces, but most of the time we are going up or down. Be assured, he fully deserved the very generous tip I give him at the end (most people in Peru do not expect tips, even from tourists).

Approaching the First View of the Site

Three things to note as you view the photos below: the functions of many of the buildings are still not known; there are no signs or maps to identify or guide you through the site; the site is not very crowded at all compared to pictures of typical days. Machu Picchu's greatest significance is that it is the only indigenous site that remains exactly as it was left by its inhabitants. The village was probably abandoned after a long war for power between two half-brothers, each of whom wanted to rule as the sole Inka. 

Our Guide, Paul

Temple of the Sun--Sunlight Enters the Central Window on the Summer Solstice

Started at the Top and Walked All the Way Down--and More

After the return by bus, I have about two hours to have lunch and explore Aguas Calientes before the departure of the train back to Poroy/Cusco. I select a busy restaurant with an excellent view for my first and only foray into local Peruvian food.

The dish pictured above is Andean Trout a la Huancainca, served with fried potatoes and a small salad. The trout is absolutely delicious and the yellow salsa huancainca is only mildly spicy. However, for the next two days I pee deeply red liquid. Very scary--but since I do not have any pain or other symptoms, Will (remember, he's a retired RN) assures me that it would soon pass. And, indeed, it does pass. We check the internet and find that this is a fairly common effect of the salsa.

I walk along both sides of the river to admire the views and look at all the trinkets for sale. If you visit Machu Picchu you will see the same trinkets since I don't make any purchases.

The 4pm train departure is delayed almost an hour and our coaches are combined with those of another train. About 20 minutes after departure the train stops abruptly and we start moving backwards to Aguas Calientes. It turns out that the engine has broken down and has to be replaced! After another 20-minute delay we are finally on track again. Even though the new engine will clearly exceed the speed limit on the way up to Poroy,  the train will still arrive over an hour late. I am supposed to be delivered back to the Hilton at 10pm, but I don't arrive until 11:30. And we have a 4am wake-up for our trip back to Lima!