Friday 8 May 2026

Tangier, Morocco

This is my third visit to Tangier. The first time I joined a shore excursion that took me along the Rif Mountains to the city of Tetouan, a center of French-Moroccon architecture and the site of a School for the Arts that trains young men and women in traditional crafts and design. The last time, I was on a tour that went to all the scenic highlights of the city, as well as to the nearby town of Azilah. Unfortunately, it rained the whole day and I didn't get to see much of the scenery, although the weather improved when we reached Azilah.

Today the weather is spectularly fine, at last. I had signed up for a bus tour that covers all of the places I missed because of the rain. It turns out, however, that I am the only person on the tour, so I end up in a private van with a personal driver/guide who gives me the deluxe version.

We begin with a long drive through the modern sections of Tangier, beginning with the business and shopping district, where all the streets are lined with the same shops and boutiques one sees in any prosperous modern city. But soon the road climbs rapidly as we approach the neighborhood where wealthy Moroccans and ex-pats have their walled and gated estates. The King has his summer palace here to escape the higher temperatures in Rabat, the national capital.

Farther up, the road comes to a dead end high above the point where the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean Sea meet

--the site of the mythic Pillars of Hercules. There are no pillars here today, but there is a cave associated with the god that one can explore. There is also a lovely lighthouse (designed like a mosque), several restaurants, and spectacular views. When I return to Tucson I will post many photos of the area.

The last part of the tour is the best:  a late lunch in a local restaurant that the guide has chosen. I invite him to join me for the meal, but he excuses himself and leaves me to a humungous amount of Moroccan food, beautifully prepared and elegantly presented. The table is set with several small plates of vegetable appetizers, including a variety of the ubiquitous olives that one finds everywhere in Arabic countries. I start with a Moroccan salad--chopped tomatoes, cucumbers, and tomatoes--to which one adds from the various appetizer plates. The main course is chicken tagine, with a large serving of roasted chicken in a hearty sauce. To accompany this I eat lots of delicious fresh-baked bread and drink my new favorite beverage, mint tea (I learned I liked this when Will and I were in Casablanca two years ago). The total cost with generous tip:  $22.

The guide drops me off at the port at 5pm. We arrived in Tangier on schedule at noon and we don't depart until 10pm. The sky is still light, but I'm too full and too tired for more touring, so I head back on board, planning to have a light dinner.

Indeed, after a long welcome nap, I order an excellent cheeseburger and fries from room service, and think about all the things I have to do tomorrow (Saturday) to prepare for disembarkation at 8:45am on Sunday. I have ordered a car to take me to my hotel, located on one of the main squares of central Lisbon. And, of course, I have already made arrangements for a car to the airport early on Monday morning.