Tuesday, 20 December

Tucson, Arizona

Yes, it's been over a week since my last blog, but getting things back together after 37 days of travel isn't quick or easy.

My welcome home at Mountain View Retirement Village was very special. Never have I been greeted by so many people happy to see me again--usually, it's just Will and Luke (our cat) at home when I return from my travels. Just one perk of living in a larger community.

I shall finish up this trip with details of my return travel, some final facts about New Zealand and Australia; comments about HAL's Covid protocols; and for those who have been waiting, some food pictures at last.

Wednesday, 7 December

Sydney to Tucson

It's a long day of travel from Australia to the US. My United Airlines flight leaves Sydney just before noon on Wednesday, although I arrive at the airport quite early, at around 8am.

There is a paid shuttle from the hotel to the airport that drops passengers at the very far end of the International Terminal. Somehow, none of the luggage cart vending machines are working and I have to drag my bags almost to the other end of the building to find a cart at last. United Airlines check-in is relatively easy, and I eventually make my way through immigration and security.

A passport digression: Although my passport in hand prior to this trip is still valid until 2026, it has only two empty visa pages. In the past, cruise lines have been very rigid--if you don't have enough empty visa pages, they won't let you board the ship. Although it was very quick, easy, and inexpensive to obtain electronic visas for both Australia and New Zealand, I couldn't be sure that those two pages wouldn't be stamped when I arrived in Sydney and there wouldn't be enough space for the rest of the trip.

As a result, I went through the very expensive process of obtaining a new passport for this trip, with expedited service (given all the delays I read about). I fully expected to have at least two foreign visas and the return US immigration stamp put into the new passport. However, I returned home with the new passport as untouched as it had been before I left. Indeed, I could have travelled with the old passport after all.

United Airlines does not have its own Polaris Lounge in Sydney, but Business Class passengers are invited to use the Air New Zealand Lounge while awaiting their flight departure. Like the United lounges, New Zealand offers unlimited free food and alcohol, as well as a pleasant and quiet place to pass the time.

The return flight from Sydney to Los Angeles takes only 13 hours, as opposed to the 15-and a-half from LAX to Sydney. Additionally, we have strong tailwinds pushing us eastward at an especially fast speed. I arrive at LAX just after 6am and get through immigration and customs very quickly. Although I have flown from Asia and Australia to the US many times, I still find it hard to wrap my head around the fact that I arrive at LAX six hours before I left Sydney (thanks to the International Dateline).

My American Airlines flight to Tucson leaves in three hours; fortunately, the AA terminal is right next to International Arrivals. The flight leaves on time and I am back in Tucson shortly before noon. Will is at the airport to greet me and in quick time I am home again at Mountain View Retirement Village.

Interesting Fact from My Travels (in no particular order):

• There is no tipping for anything in either Australia or New Zealand--what a pleasant difference from home;
• I was pleasantly surprised that my expensive electric toothbrush kept its charge for the entire trip--that's 37 days. I had all the charger equipment with me, but never had to use it;
• Melbourne and Sydney, although quite far apart, are in the same time zone, Adelaide, west of Melbourne, sets its clocks 30 minutes ahead (I wonder who thought of that idea?);
• Public transportation in the central parts of all major cities in both countries is always free--and, thus, always crowded;
• Both countries are fast developing into cashless societies--much faster than the US. Most businesses will not accept cash, even for the smallest purchases, like a $1.00 bottle of water. And public transportation will accept only system-issued pay cards (like the Oyster card in London), or any chip-augmented credit card. You just tap the card when getting on and when getting off--everything is automatically charged to the card.
• I sent out nine loads of free laundry while on board the Westerdam; the service was fast and every item was returned carefully, treated just as I requested;
• HAL has seriously reduced the benefits of their Mariners' program. As a 4* Mariner I used to receive 50% discounts on haircuts and HAL merchandise in the shops. Now it's 15% in the shops and only 10% on a haircut. And you have to read the very, very small print to find these changes. The only benefits still of much use are the free laundry service and priority boarding of tenders (if not on a shore excursion). 
• Food on the Westerdam is still tasty and well-prepared, but the menus in the Dining Room, where I ate almost every night at 7:45, have been severely curtailed. There is much less choice and a great deal of repetition.
• My servers in the Dining Room were as friendly and helpful as ever--they are the best reason to sail on HAL these days. One reason I enjoy eating in the Dining Room is that I have the same servers every night and they can anticipate my desires.

Covid Precautions and Conditions:

Covid precautions were not as good as they should have been. Although I had to do a self-test prior to boarding, no one seemed interested at looking at the result. For the first two days on board, there was very little information about Covid. On the second day we were told that masks were required in all indoor settings (other than staterooms), because "there was an outbreak of new variants in the Sydney area." It wasn't until several days later that we were told that there were significant numbers of passengers and crew in isolation. I learned from passengers who had been on the Westerdam since it had left Seattle three weeks earlier that there were 40 cases when the ship reached Hawaii. On the final day of the cruise, 28 days later, the captain announced there were 60 cases. Although masks were supposedly required on tenders, tour buses and excursions, this rule was not very well enforced. I avoided Covid by having dinner at a solo table in the Dining Room and Pinnacle Grill (my usual preference anyway), avoiding large gatherings completely, and keeping to myself whenever possible.

Summary of Fitbit Steps:

In an earlier message I reported the daily steps and floors for the first half of the trip (from my Fitbit smart watch). Here is a summary of those numbers for the entire trip:

• During the 22 days I spent on land (in ports and in Sydney prior to and after sailing), I averaged 8.1 miles per day (and I walked quite bit onboard on sea days, too);
• On my highest land day, I walked 22,536 steps, which equals 10.27 miles 
• During my 34 days in Australia and New Zealand, I covered a total of 507 floors, for an average of 14.91 floors per day
• Highest day = 96 floors (on the ship on a sea day)

Westerdam Food Photos (a brief selection):

Desserts First

Opera Cake

Australian Lamington Cake
(above and below)

Sicilian Caserta Cake

Victorian Tea Service

Thanksgiving Pumpkin Pie and Assorted Pastries

 

Appetizers

 

                                        

Sushi-Grade Tuna Salad

Shrimp Cocktail


Fruit and Mesclun Salad

Breakfasts

Creme Brûlée French Toast

Greek Yogurt with Fresh Fruit

French Toast with Fresh Fruit

So I bid farewell to my readers. But I hope to return in the Spring of 2023 for another bon voyage on LFLatSea.

Friday, 9 December

Tucson, Arizona

I arrived safely home in Tucson on time right before noon on Wednesday, exactly six hours before I left Sydney. Such are the vagaries of time when you cross the International Dateline and spend 13.5 hours in a plane.

But I still have some more blogging to do before I am finished with this trip. So keep looking for announcements in your emails over the next week or so.

Tuesday, 6 December

Sydney, Australia

Hard to believe, but I am actually caught up with myself for my last day in Australia. The Westerdam left Melbourne on Sunday evening, sped eastward through the Tasman Sea on Monday, and docked right on time at the Overseas Passenger Terminal at Circular Quay at 7am today. I probably could have made my flight this morning, but I'm glad I didn't have to rush off the ship.

My final dinner in the Pinnacle Restaurant last night was one of the best meals I've had on this cruise. And Ali, who had served my table in the Main Dining Room for the first two weeks and then was transferred to the Pinnacle, was there to help me this final night. I had already bid farewell to Awan and Dhanni, both of whom are also leaving the Westerdam after many months to return home to their families. Ali still has seven months left on his contract before returning home.

I haven't talked much about the food, but the preparation and presentation seems to have improved during this second two weeks. Last night I enjoyed a glass of French champagne, my usual bottle of Perrier, jumbo (?) shrimp cocktail with horseradish sauce, beef tenderloin with lobster dumplings in Bernaise sauce and grilled mushrooms, and a chocolate soufflé for dessert, accompanied by chocolate petits fours and jellies.

This morning the captain announces his farewell to those passengers leaving the ship (while many are staying on for their two weeks in New Zealand), and his own farewell, too, as he is returning to Holland to be with his family for the holidays. He announces, also, that 60 passengers are in various stages of quarantine with Covid 19. I have been careful about wearing a mask and, I think, dining alone has protected me as well.

After a quick breakfast in the Lido Marketplace, my assigned time for debarkation is called. I pick up my luggage in the terminal and hop on a pre-paid bus to the airport. I'm not catching a plane this morning, but I am staying at the Stamford Sydney Airport Hotel, a very short taxi ride from where the bus drops me at the terminal.

The hotel is rather disappointing. While claiming to be the most luxurious and best hotel at the airport, the room has absolutely no ports for charging phones or other paraphernalia. It's a good thing I have my plug converter so that I can at least use the computer without running down the battery.

After a brief rest, I walk the short distance to the domestic flights terminal, where there is an underground transit station. With one transfer of lines, I quickly get to the Newtown area of Sydney. This is a funky older neighborhood with quaint shops, rundown architecture, and a wide cross-section of humanity. I have come to Newtown to follow a trail of large hand-painted murals spread across the commercial center.

After an hour or two in Newtown, I return to Circular Quay, where the Westerdam is still docked since I disembarked this morning. I enjoy the warm, sunny weather as I watch the crowds of locals and tourists. Then I take the train back to the airport for the short walk to my hotel

I opt for room service dinner (mediocre) and rearrange some of packing for tomorrow's flights home

Monday, 5 December

Still Sailing Back to Sydney

It's 4pm and I am just about fully packed. I have a dinner reservation in the Pinnacle Grill for 7pm. And I promised to stop by the Main Dining Room for a farewell to my two excellent servers, Awan and Dhanni. Dhanni has been with me for the entire 28 days; Awan started in Sydney 14 days ago. Ali, who was my server for the first 14 days, is now working in the Pinnacle Grill, so I will be able to say goodbye to him tonight as well.

So I thought I would use the little left-over time to continue with my visit to Melbourne.

Saturday, 3 December 2022

Melbourne, Australia (2)

At the conclusion of the previous Melbourne entry, I had just finished the "Arcades and Alleyways" shore excursion. But that wasn't the end of my day.

From the coffee/pastry shop where the tour ends it is only a short walk to Next Hotel Melbourne, one of the trendy new places where everything happens on your iPhone. The room is equipped with everything I could possibly need--if I could only figure out how it all works! The bathroom is really nice, and, fortunately, doesn't require an electronic connection. The staff is quite helpful and friendly. On the way to the hotel I find a one-person barber shop and get a really good haircut for much less than my "discounted" rate on the ship.

After a couple hours rest, I venture out to visit more of this city that seems to have changed more than Sydney has. Yes, Sydney has crowded in more tall buildings, but the harbor is the harbor and it still is the center of everything. Melbourne has not only built its own skyscraper city, but seems to have become more sophisticated in the process. Since we are getting close to Christmas, the CBD is packed with shoppers and it feels much like New York City at holiday time, except for the blistering temperature.

One of the major changes since I was here in 1993 is the construction of Federation Square, a venue for arts, culture and public events. Not every local is happy with the brutalist architecture, but it serves the admirable function of giving the city a central meeting point, which it previously lacked.

Federation Square sits across the street from Flinders Street Station to the West, and is built over formerly exposed railroad tracks and gas works. It sits across the street from the Moorish-designed Forum theatre to the north

But it has been a long day and after a quick Chinese dinner I head back to Next and next is a good night's sleep. But tomorrow is another day in Melbourne.

Sunday, 4 December 2022

Melbourne, Australia (3)

After a quick breakfast of a butter croissant and a slice of coconut bread at Starbucks I am astonished at the early line of people waiting to see the Disney-themed holiday windows at Myers Department Store.

Then I hop on a free tram to the eastern end of the CBD, where many of Melbourne's government buildings, theaters, and parks are located.

City Panorama from the Parliament Tram Stop

Monumental Buildings on Spring Street

The Princess Theatre Presenting Harry Potter
(When I Was Here in 1993, it was Phantom of the Opera)

State of Victoria Parliament House

Windsor Hotel

One of the Old Tram Cars Still Running on Spring Street

JFK Memorial in Botanic Garden

Conservatory Building in Botanic Garden

My final visit is to the "Queen Victoria Market," a series of 19th-century buildings and sheds offering locals and tourists every conceivable consumable possible, from endless varieties of fresh fish and produce, to stacks of discounted clothes and electronics. This is where Melborneans shop for bargains.

Entrance to One of the Sheds

American Hot Donuts Are Very Popular

Interior of Bargain-Hunters' Shed

I ride two trams back to the Next Hotel to pick up my shoulder bag that I left when I checked out earlier this morning, since I didn't want to be burdened carrying it around. From the hotel I take an air-conditioned taxi--it's still in the low 90s--back to the pier and the Westerdam. 

And I present two final views of the Melbourne skyline from the stern as we depart for our return to Sydney.

Monday, 5 December

Sailing Back to Sydney

Today is the final day of this 28-day cruise, and I will be very busy packing and cleaning out the junk from my stateroom. I am not as far behind in posting as usual, but I may still have to cover the final days and traveling home after I get back to Tucson.

After one sea day from Kangaroo Island, the Westerdam reached Melbourne on time during a late spring heat wave--temperatures in the low 90s F over the next two days. Because of the heat and the 45-minute tram ride from the pier to the CBD, I decide to spend the overnight in Melbourne at a hotel, using frequent flyer miles to pay for the night.

Saturday, 3 December 2022

Melbourne, Australia (1)

This morning I am booked on a shore excursion that will allow me to stay in the CBD at the end of the tour, rather than returning to the ship. Of course, that means toting a heavy shoulder bag with the stuff I will need for overnight; but I manage it along with my camera and other touring necessities.

The three-hour walking tour explores the arcades and alleyways of Melbourne, one of the most fascinating aspects of the city. Since the middle of the 19th century, shopping arcades have been developed (and are still being developed) in all parts of the city, and delivery alleyways have been transformed into trendy locations for shops, local artists' displays, restaurants, and more coffee shops per square foot than I have seen anywhere else in the world--and I have seen a lot of coffee shops in a lot of places.

Fortunately, it's a pretty small tour group and our local guide meets us at the pier. We begin with a short walk to the tram stop and hop on for the ride into the CBD. Melbourne has the most-extensive tram network in the world, with trams running in every direction on every major street, at five to ten minute intervals, and extending way out into the suburbs. What's especially great is that within the large CBD, all the trams are free (and, therefore, very crowded).

Exiting the tram at the busy center of the city, we explore a significant number of arcades and alleyways, ending at a coffee and pastry shop for included refreshment.

A Typical Modern Tram

The First Alleyway We Visit (above and three photos below)

View of Early Modern High-Rise from Alleyway

Not Exactly the Belgian Waffle I Had at Expo 2020 in
Dubai One Year Ago (Link Back at the Bottom of
the Page)

Flinders Street Railway Station

Melbourne Folk Like to Meet "Under the Clocks"

Our Tour Guide in Front of the Cathedral

The Cathedral Arcade Across the Street
(above and two photos below)

Local Kitschy Street Art (above and below)

Entrance to "The Block," Melbourne's Most Popular 19th-Century Arcade
(Interior Shown in Two Photos Below)

More Alleyway Local Art

Refreshments (with Cappuccino) at the End of the Tour

And finally, a fitting alleyway tribute:

The Sign (above)--the Reality (below)

This has been a very long entry with lots of photos. I think I am avoiding packing--but I don't have to put my bags outside my stateroom until midnight, and it's only just after noon right now. If you're lucky I'll do another Melbourne blog later today, or you will have to wait until tomorrow.