Monday, 4 November 2024

Avalon, Catalina Island, California

Last night I enjoyed an extra hour of sleep as California turned back its clocks from Daylight Savings Time. We don't do time changes in Arizona, so now California is one hour earlier than Tucson.

After that extra sleep, I awake to views of Catalina Island from my port-side veranda.

I have a light breakfast in the Lido Marketplace: orange juice, coffee, bagel with lox and cream cheese, fresh cut fruit, and strawberry yogurt.

I have never been to Catalina Island before. It is the only one of seven Channel Islands that is privately owned. The others are either part of the National Park System or used by the US military. Originally inhabited by Native Americans known as Pimugans, in 1542 the island was occupied by the Spanish, who later gave the land to Mexico, which owned most of California until the 19th-century Mexican-American War. There were several American owners after California achieved statehood, but it was the Wrigley family, of chewing gum and baseball fame, who purchased the island in 1919 and started its successful development as a resort. In 1975, the Wrigley family donated 88% of the island to the Catalina Island Conservancy, a nonprofit organization dedicated to preserving the island in its natural state.

Today is a lovely, bright morning, slightly on the cool side (upper 50's), and I am anxious to get ashore. The Koningsdam is anchored just off the city of Avalon; it takes barely ten minutes to get ashore. One of the privileges of being a 4-star Marina is I don't have to obtain a tender ticket; I can board as soon as I wish without waiting on line. This perk gets me into Avalon at 8:45am.

Because Holland America offers very slim pickings for shore excursions, I have pre-booked a two-hour Catalina Adventures "Inside Adventure Tour," which starts at 9:30. The tour vehicle is a small truck with an open-sided trailer that seats about 18 people. The trip begins with a brief tour of Avalon city (it doesn't take much time even to walk from one end to the other), with the guide pointing out the house where Marilyn Monroe spent several teenage years. 

The guide also emphasizes the extreme cost-of-living on the island, with houses and condos ranging from one million dollars upwards. And even with those astronomical prices, there is a major housing shortage. Local schoolteachers commute by high-speed ferries twice a day, five days a week. There are few full-size cars since there aren't many roads. Every resident has either a golf-cart or smart car for getting around. Remarkably, Catalina is part of Los Angeles County and the Long Beach Unified School District--thus the many red vehicles with Los Angeles logos on them.

Expensive Homes and Condos Above Avalon Town (above and below)

Then begins the ascent up steep hills and curves to the "inside" of the island, the very large private conservancy area, home to a wide variety of local animals, including cattle, bison, deer, bald eagles, very small red foxes, and very large squirrels (much larger than their continental counterparts). Unfortunately, all I get to see is one small fox sleeping in the sunshine at the side of the road. And the road is much too bumpy for photographs. I'm surprised these few came out ok.

The tour reaches its mid-point almost at the highest spot on the Island, at a small airport with a shop and cafe. The ride down the same narrow, curving, unpaved road is much quicker than the ride up--but the driver is very experienced.

After the tour, I walk through Avalon, enjoying the Bayfront views and trendy shops (of which there are many). Prices are very high and obviously geared to the tourist trade; no free wifi anywhere! It reminds me very much of what Key West has become after welcoming hordes of travelers on large cruise ships.

The Avalon Casino: A Place for Community Gatherings, Movies,
and Special Events--Not for Gambling

Tourist Shops Along the Water Front

I have a leisurely lunch on the patio of a waterfront restaurant: panko-breaded shrimp with fries and coleslaw. 

At around 2pm I am ready to line up for a return tender to the Koningsdam and an afternoon nap.

I return to the Dining Room for my second dinner, served by my two very accommodating and friendly waiters, both young men from Indonesia. Dinner begins with a warm beef empanada, followed by a classic Caesar salad. The main course is a tender New York strip steak, so large it flops over the edge of the plate. Tonight's dessert is a strawberry crumble with vanilla ice cream. I accompany the meal with a bottle of Perrier and a glass of California Pinot Noir. 

And all is well as I head off to bed, happy that tomorrow is a restful sea day.