Monday, 19 April 2010

Rome:  Arrival and Debarkation

It’s very early in the morning, the light barely breaking, but we are docked snugly at the pier in Civitavecchia, the port of Rome, which all the crew members call simply, “Chivi.” There is a lot of waiting around both in the ship’s lounge and on the bus before we start off for the airport—but I’m really not in a hurry since I don’t think I will actually be going anywhere today. Everyone is trading hardship stories, but my Queen Mary cancellation seems to win the most sympathy.

You may recall that several days ago I asked the Holland America people about extending my time on the Eurodam for another leg of the cruise (sailing to Greece and then returning to Rome). I was told then that everything was booked. But as we leave the ship today people are saying that not only is space available, but because of the number of cancellations by passengers unable to get to Rome, Holland America is offering 50% off the price of the ten-day cruise extension. I guess I just wasn’t aggressive enough in pestering the staff over the past several days and it’s too late now. But the extension would certainly have solved (or at least postponed) most of my transit problems.

It’s a pleasant 90-minute drive through the lush Italian countryside to the airport, with intermittent views of the sea and passenger trains in the distance. As we get closer, we see some planes flying, but certainly not the normal number that would be taking off and landing at 9 am on a Monday. Things are eerily quiet and it seems like the chaos won’t start until we actually arrive at the terminal.

Leonardo Da Vinci Airport

There are several long lines in the terminal, but on the whole things seem to be under control and most people are calmly waiting—at least until we compete to get our luggage on the one small, still-operating elevator. But at this juncture it’s everyone for himself, and waiting quietly for people to queue and take their turn just isn’t going to work (well it is Italy!). There is no line at the British Airways desk (no flights either); when I explain to the clerk that I have reservations on the QM2 leaving Southampton on Thursday, he says (with hardly a look of sympathy) that he can get me to London on Friday. There’s not much point to my going to London on Friday, I tell him, but he’s really not very interested.

There is a shuttle bus (€6,00/$8.00) to the Marriott in the nearby town of Fiumicino, but it’s all the way at the other end of the airport, so even the long line waiting for taxis seems more appealing. And the comfort and speed of the taxi, including a nice tip to the driver, comes to only €7,00 ($9.40).

Fiumicino

 

I’m glad I made these hotel reservations in advance, because I certainly will be using them. The Marriott Courtyard Rome Airport is actually quite nice, just like its American counterparts (rather comforting at the moment). I could take a shuttle bus into Rome for a day of sightseeing, but I’m just too worn out for that and need to give my feet a good rest, so I’ll just spend the day here in Fiumicino. All the anxiety and last minute changes have been more draining than I thought, because it’s only 10 am and I fall into bed for a deep and refreshing four-hour sleep.

In mid-afternoon I make the short walk into town and find an interesting bistro for a long Italian lunch with wine, Restaurant 3032. On the way back to the Marriott I stop at the local supermarket for supplies (bottled water, fruit, and some croissants for breakfast). I check the computer and there is still some chance that my flights on BrusselsAir from Rome to Brussels to London will go as scheduled on Wednesday, but I think it is a very, very small chance indeed. I'm not sure I want to risk getting stuck in Brussels, where the airport is still closed, and I may be better off staying in Rome where flights to the US are still leaving. Tomorrow I will move to a hotel in central Rome, so that  I will be able to enjoy some benefits of my unscheduled visit.

More to come.