Monaco and Monte-Carlo
Another beautiful day as we glide into the Monaco cruise pier at Port Hercule, situated just below the Old City, site of the Palace and Cathedral, and within walking distance of Monte-Carlo, the commercial center of the principality. Ian, the tour director, provides a running commentary as we are guided into the pier alongside million dollar yachts with private helicopters (sometimes two!) on their top decks. We have striking views of the three corniche (mountain roads) and their bridges that hug the hillsides at various levels.
Although the Old City is situated on the top of a steep and rugged cliff-like projection and the Eurodam is parked down at the bottom, Monaco has provided a series of elevators and escalators hidden inside the stones that take visitors and residents up to the top level. (There is also a large multi-level parking deck hidden inside the cliff.)
I emerge at the top near the world-famous Oceanographic Museum and walk through the Saint Martin Gardens that cling to the edge overlooking the bay and suburb of Fontvieille (yes, even tiny Monaco is densely populated enough to have suburbs). The hillsides surrounding the port and Old City are so packed with high-rise condos and apartments that there is barely a spot of earth or nature visible. But there are many parks and gardens to offset the concrete and glass. At the other end of the town are two famous landmarks: the Opera House and the Casino, which is closed for a year’s renovation. But don’t worry—there are many other gambling venues in the city so tourists will be able to contribute to the economy whenever they choose.
I visit the Cathedral, which is the final resting place for the remains of the Grimaldi Family, the ruling princes (and now ruling princesses, since they recently passed a law allowing for women to assume the throne; a good thing, too, since Prince Albert doesn’t have any legitimate heirs yet, and thus his sister is next in line for the throne). Then a short walk to the square outside the Royal Palace, guarded over by toy soldiers in their colorful but quaint uniforms. I’ve been through the Royal Apartments before so I’ll skip them on this visit, especially since the walking I do is painful. But I try to grimace and bear it—with the help of a lot of pills.
Back to the Ship
I return to the ship in the afternoon for lunch and rest, spending the remainder of the day on the internet trying to make alternate travel arrangements. It’s interesting that my cell phone works perfectly while we are at sea (with clearer and faster connections than I get at home), but doesn’t work at all in port (although I can use the phone’s calendar and address book features). I can’t wait until I get my next Sprint bill, since calls from sea go at $2.78 per minute! My next task is packing; my bag has to be packed, labeled, and outside my stateroom door by 1 am if I don’t want to have to carry it off myself. I am scheduled for a very early departure by bus from Civitavecchia (where we disembark) to Fiumicino (Rome’s airport location). I know I won’t be getting on a plane, but I had pre-booked transportation to the airport (about a 90-minute ride), and I have a one-night reservation at the Marriott Courtyard Hotel just outside the airport. At least I won’t have to spend the nights in the airport, a fate particularly fearsome since the neuropathy pain prevents me from wearing socks and shoes for more than a few hours at a time. “Barefoot in the Rome Airport” doesn’t sound like much of a comedy to me.
Sunday Dinner
• Antipasto (with duck pâté)
• Chef Rudi’s master salad
• Peach-braised salmon (with a sauce that is much too sweet)
• Burgundy cherry ice cream
No wine tonight, since I still have some packing to do and a wake-up call for 6:30am.
More to follow.
__03.jpg)