Saturday, 17 April 2010


Barcelona

Barcelona is a very large city with an enormous number of attractions that run the gamut from the medieval architecture of the Cathedral to the Modernist domestic architecture of the Eixample neighborhood to the 21st century sports and dock facilities. Add to that some first-class museums (including one dedicated to early Picasso works), an excellent metro and bus system, a stunning physical setting where the mountains meet the Mediterranean, and the all-pervasive smile-inducing spirit of Gaudi—and there is enough to keep one busy for a week. Fortunately the city is divided into geographic and cultural sections that make it easy for the visitor to spend a half day or so in each. Of course, I have only one short day, but since I’ve been here three times previously and hope to be here again (with Will) in the fall, I’ll relax and just let it all saunter by.

I take a taxi from the new cruise line pier, which juts out from the Christopher Columbus statue at the end of Las Ramblas (the long, wide boulevard that cuts through the heart of the city), to Playa de Cataluyna (plaza), from where I can walk to the Gothic Quarter, where my first task is to find a café for a late morning coffee and croissant. I find one (of many) stationed directly in front of the Cathedral. Mission accomplished, I spend some time in the Cathedral, built over a period of 150 years and completed in 1450. The space inside is immense, and although some parts are modern reconstructions, much of the original decoration remains intact. A new attraction is a visit to the roof (by elevator and a series of intricate metal walkways), that provides panoramic views of the city, including a misty view of Gaudi’s unfinished Sagrada Familia in the distance. Not quite as architecturally impressive as the roof of the Cathedral in Milan, but still worth a visit.

Coffee at the Cathedral

Cathedral
Nave

Cathedral

Roof

After coming down from the heights, I spend a few hours leisurely exploring the narrow streets and alleys of the Gothic Quarter and walking part of Las Ramblas, which on a beautiful Saturday is thronged with locals and tourists. The art of posing mimes has been taken to extraordinary lengths here and I am greeted by an enormous variety of garish, and sometimes ghoulish, living tableaux.

Shared bicycles
are a big part

of urban
transportation

in many European
cities; this is a
bicycle stand
in Barcelona 

Las Ramblas

Volcano Rumblings

I return to the ship for a late afternoon “Disembarkation Presentation,” since there are only two nights left for the cruise. By now, everyone is aware of the growing problems caused by the Icelandic eruption, but the ship people know little more than the rest of us. They do, however, try to help out by offering free internet time for people trying to make new arrangements. The Eurodam will be continuing on to Greece for 10 more days and then returning to Rome, but will remain in Rome for two nights instead of one so that new passengers will be able (they hope) to make their way to the ship. I try to find out if I can get a cabin for the extended passage, but at this time everything is booked up.

I have already started to make alternate plans for getting to London after leaving the ship in Rome in two days, including a hotel for one night at the Rome airport and a hotel in central Rome for the next three nights after that (what did we do before the Internet?). I am still hopeful that I will make it to London before the QM2 sails next Thursday; after all, I have three days to get there and I am sure that something will be flying by then. I have been in contact several times a day with both Will and my travel agent Elaine via internet and telephone, and Elaine has been arranging some alternate flights to London. [As we know, however, none of these plans will work.]

Saturday Dinner in the Pinnacle Grill

But for now the main task is getting ready for the final formal night and my second dinner in the Pinnacle Grill at 7 pm:

• Tonight’s amuse bouche:  mushroom cappuccino (a drinkable warm mix of pureed mushrooms and cream in a small glass cup)

• Caesar salad the old-fashioned way (mixed at the table)

• Broiled lobster tail wrapped around steamed spinach, with drawn butter, scalloped potatoes, and sautéed mushrooms

• Lemon sorbet

Tonight is the dessert extravaganza on the Lido Deck at 11 pm—but I don’t think I’m going to make it.

More to follow.