5 May 2015
Naples

This is my third visit to Naples, and the first time that I have felt comfortable being in this incredibly beautiful and incredibly crowded city. Back in May 1990 Will and I spent three days here, visiting Pompeii and Capri on our own, but otherwise confining ourselves to the hillside neighborhood of our hotel after several near-incidents in central Naples with motorbike thieves, unscrupulous taxi drivers, poorly-functioning Metro, and unceasing traffic (not to mention that the trash collectors were on strike).  We did enjoy some wonderful pizza, but also some very questionable "new" wine siphoned into our glasses directly from a hose behind the bar.

In October 2010, our cruise on Cunard's Queen Victoria stopped here for the day between the ports of Livorno in Tuscany and Tunis, capital of Tunisia.  We ventured out ourselves in the morning to visit the nearby Pza Plebescito, with its monumental church and views of Mt Vesuvius, and Galleria Emanuel II, with its fine shops lining the sides of the glass-enclosed gallery.  We also enjoyed a fine pizza at a small restaurant across from the Maritime Terminal and the ship.  In the afternoon we joined a shore excursion to the ruins of Herculaneum, perfect for a warm fall afernoon.  And while sailing from the harbor out into Naples Bay at sunset was delightful from the veranda on the ship, Naples itself was better remembered in photos than experienced first hand.

But today I spend several hours walking through the streets of the historical center, in the eastern part of the city, a neighborhood I have not previously explored.  Perhaps because there are five large cruise ships docked at the pier and the city is overrun with tourists, local criminals seem to have taken the day off and left everyone alone.  Many of the old streets surrounding the Cathedral and a number of other ancient churches have been pedestrianized and are lined with shops and cafes, as well as pizza stands on every corner.  I even find a unique gift for Will at a local art studio:  a flash drive in a credit-card sized plastic case with a drawing of Mt Vesuvius on the cover. Although the walk requires several uphill portions, returning downhill to the ship is much easier.

This was certainly a good visit to end the cruise.  It even made me want to come back to Naples to watch that sunset again.

Drago d'oro:  Via Monteoliveto

Monteoliveto Fountain

Facade of Church of Gesù Nuovo 

Basilica of Santa Chiara:  Campanile

Basilica of Santa Chiara:   Cloister Gateway

Cloister of Santa Chiara:  Majolica Columns

Cloister of Santa Chiara:  Majolica Columns

I know all my readers are waiting patiently for more specific information and pictures of the problems on the Zuiderdam; I will begin posting all the facts and details after I finish describing the remaining ports (Santorini and Naples) and the trip home to Tucson. 

3 May 2015
Santorini

I have sailed into and out of many beautiful ports around the world:  San Francisco, Acapulco, Cabo San Lucas, Rio de Janeiro, Vittoria (Brazil), New York City, Hong Kong, Oslo, Stockholm, Dover, Monte Carlo, Naples, Venice, Valletta (Malta), Kotor (Montenegro), Mykonos, and Lisbon.  But there is something extra special and unique about sailing into the volcanic caldera that is the port of Thira in Santorini.  As the ship drops anchor, I can see the "Burnt Isles" on one side--small lava remants that are positioned as islands in the middle of the sea-filled caldera--and the strip of white houses lining the top of the cliff on the other side.

Only small ships can dock at the port, so the Zuiderdam anchors off shore.  The first group of tenders (local boats used for this purpose), for those on HAL shore excursions, takes passengers to the only portion of coastline wide enough for tour buses to park.  After returning to the Zuiderdam, these same ships take independent travelers, like myself, to the port of Thira, located immediately below the town. There are three ways to reach the town from the port:  take the comfortable and quick cable car; hire a donkey to climb the winding hillside staircase; or compete with the donkeys by walking up the stairs yourself.  Today it's the cable car for me.

Thira itself as a one-street town that stretches from north to south along the top edge of the volcano.  The views over the edge of traditional white-washed architecture and the sea below defy imagination.  The street itself is lined with shops of various degrees of expense and restaurants and cafes.  As soon as I exit the cable car I choose a cafe that overlooks the sea and enjoy a $5.00 cappuccino that provides an hour of peaceful views.  There are other things to see on Santorini Island besides Thira.  The small town of Ia at the very north end of the island is a picture-postcard of traditional Cyclades architecture; the southern end of the island is home to black sand beaches and the recently discovered ruins of the city of Akrotiri.  When I spent three days here in 1993 I was able to see it all--some days using public transportation, other days taking tours, including one to the Burnt Isles themselves.  But today I am content to wander through the small town of Thira and to have a typical Greek lunch in a cafe at the port before boarding the tender back to the ship.

Tomorrow is a sea day and I hope to get most of my packing done so I can enjoy the following day in Naples, the final day of the cruise before disembarking at the Port of Rome.

ms Zuiderdam at Anchor in the Santorini Caldera

Hillside and Port Below Thira

Morning Coffee in Thira Cafe

View of Central Thira and Plains Beyond

ms Zuiderdam at Anchor in the Santorini Caldera

Donkeys and Riders Going Downhill from Thira to Port
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                                  Shopping in Thira

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Views Over the Caldera

ms Zuiderdam at Anchor in the Santorini Caldera

View from ms Zuiderdam at Anchor in the Santorini Caldera

View from ms Zuiderdam at Anchor in the Santorini Caldera
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Sailing from Santorini

2 May 2015
Rhodes

There are two important cities to visit on the island of Rhodes:  the capital city with its medieval old town completely surrounded by protective walls whose structure forms the basis for the design of most modern chess sets; and Lindos, with its Classical Acropolis perched high above the sea.  Although it is possible to visit both places in one day--either by shore excursion or public transportation--it is much more relaxing to stay in Rhodes to wander through the streets of the old town, browse in the many fine shops selling local leather goods, pottery, and jewelry, and enjoy lunch at a local taverna.  I spent four days here in 1993 and have seen all the important sights in both cities, as well as enjoying the pleasures of a large resort hotel in the newer part of the city, just a short walk from the old town gates.

ms Zuiderdam Docked Outside Old Town Walls

Central Square with Restaurants and Shops

Marriage Gate and Old Town Walls

Street of Inns of the Knights of Malta

Entrance to Castle of the Knights

Courtyard of Castle of the Knights

Monumental Staircase in Castle of the Knights

Part of Collection of Mosaics in Castle of the Knights

Turkish Mosque

Stopping for Lunch

Delightful Local Resident

Turkish Mosque and Shops

I have returned to finish up the blogging from my recent cruise.  At least I will be able to post more photos from home than when on board ship.

1 May 2015
Mykonos

The Zuiderdam approaches the island of Mykonos from the west and drops anchor within sight of the main town of Hora.  We are better off tendering in to shore today, because larger ships have to dock pretty far from all the attractions of the town.  Today is Europe's Labor Day and many of the traditional attractions, including the boat trip to Delos, are closed or cancelled.  But the shops and cafes are open, the sun is shining in an intense blue sky, and the breezes are soft and warm--and that's really all one needs to enjoy this most popular of all the Greek isles.  When I was here for three nights in 1993, I stayed at the Elisium Hotel, which is located just above the top of this first photograph.