The Zuiderdam continues to be more a construction site than a cruise ship and my resentment at the front office staff's cavalier treatment of these problems as mere "inconveniences" drives me mad.  No one on board took up my offer to send me home from Venice, so I have kept my complaints below the radar since then (although I have quite a list with photographic evidence)--until yesterday when the construction noise on the still-closed observation deck was headache-producing in the finally-opened Crow's Nest lounge.  So next time you desire to spend your vacaqtion on a moving contruction site, make sure you check with Holland America.

Thursday, 30 April 2015
Kusadasi and Ephesus, Turkey

This morning we are docked at the very  modern (i.e. lots of shopping) port of Kusadasi, which is the jumping off point for excursions to Ephesus, one of the most important classical sites in Asia Minor.  Yes, today I am in Asian Turkey (although not for the first time; I spent 4 days in Istanbul--on both continents--in 1993).

I am glad to do a shore excursion today, and lucky that our guide knows all the secret ins and outs--like visiting the supposed house of Mary, JC's mother, before all the other tour buses arrive.  Mary moved here after the crucifixion, with the apostle John, whose tomb we visit later today.  There is no hard evidence that she lived in this specific house, but it is from the period and scholars know she spent a number of years in this area.

On the Road from Kusadasi

Buses Waiting to Park at Mary's House

From Mary's house, we continue on twisting mountain roads offering wonderful views of countryside and sea, and soon reach Ephesus iself.  Much like other classical sites, the ruins are in a variety of conditions.  The recently excavated "terrace houses" reveal layers of wonderful wall paintings that were protected by mud and sand for centures.  The large theatre is also very complete, but the site all visitors come to see is the well-preserved three-story facade of the Celsius Library, the second in size and importance after the one in Alexandria, Egypt.  

Terrace House Wall Painting

Celsius Library Facade

The weather has become much warmer and the mid-day sun is already brutal, even this early in May.  It must be intolerable in the summer (just like Tucson, although at home I don't spend the day walking through ruins).  But the tour group gets a chance to cool off and sit down for lunch on the terrace of a beautiful sea-side hotel, built in layers on the hillside just outside of Kusadasi.  

After lunch we have one more tour stop--at a rug merchant in the city.  This is a very large and well-established business, that has a guarantee agreement with Holland America (and probably other cruise lines as well).  The sales staff put on a spectacular show displyaing a variety of types of rugs--much more dramatic and choreographed than the one Will and I saw in Tunisia in 2010.  There is absolutely no pressure to buy anthing, but once you express a serious interest the sales staff make sure to close the deal.  There were  many rugs I would have loved to take home (have delivered, actually), but I dared to spend on only one (even though the owner, who just happened to be my salesperson, tried to make me an offer I couldn't refuse on a second one--I could and did refuse).  On the whole, it was a very comfortable and low-key buying experience.  My limited knowledge of carpet-making was less important than finding a rug that suited my tastes perfectly.  The pattern is quite unique and the angora wool is hand-knotted almost as tightly as silk, giving the rug a sheen and sparkle.  Unlike the Chinese silk rugs I purchased in Hong Kong in 1986 (and which still hang on the wall in Tucson), this 4'x6' rug is designed to be used on a floor.  I am not going to post a photo until the rug is delivered in three to five weeks (to keep Will in suspense). He, by the way, has been on his own rug-buying binge in Tucson, at an oriental carpet store that is going out of business.  I can't wait to see what purhases he has made!

Tonight we turn westward and sail to the first of three famous and uniquely different Greek islands:  Mykonos, Rhodes, and the most spectacular, Santorini.