Tuesday, 19 March 2019
Almost at Shanghai Again
The Westerdam continues to hug the coast of China as we sail north to Shanghai.   Our one long day in Hong King introduces 1,300 new passengers, as many of the people I would greet every day have now disappeared into the vast miasma of former fellow travelers.  Wifi has become very erratic, since China and Google are not the best of friends.  I assume this will reach my readers sometime, but cannot predict precisely when.

I have used the past two sea days to relax, rest, and eat—not necessarily in that order.  My major dinner attendant, Yuda, from Indonesia, provides ample food and entertainment almost every evening.  Although staff and crew members usually change positions whenever a new large group of guests appear, I was able to convince the Dining Room director that I could not possibly continue to eat unless Yuda and his assistant server, Dewa,  remained as waiters.  The director only partially obliges by assigning Yuda to continue at my table.   

I also learnd that Yuda has a younger brother, Yoga, who works on the Westerdam, primarily in the Lido. I will have to spend the remaining days of the cruise looking for him.  A third sibling remains at home in Indonesia.

Sunday, 17 March 2019
A Long Day at an Airport Very Far Away 

Although returning to the bustle of Hong Kong is always exasperating and exhilerating at the same time, today's logistics are more complicated than in the past. I first visited here in 1986, on an escorted tour with my mother (actually two visits, one at the start of the trip and another short one at the end), on our way to visiting my brother, who was living in Tokyo at the time.  I returned with Will in 2004, at the end of our 18-day land tour of China.  My two other past visits were for boarding ships that sailed to Southeast Asia (Holland America's Veendam in 2014 and Oceania's Nautica in 2015).  Both ships are significantly smaller than the Westerdam and docked at the old cruise port, which is literally half a block from the Hotel HongKong, where I usually stay.  There is also direct access from this cruise port to two of the largest malls in Kowloon--Harbour City and Ocean Plaza.

But because Westerdam carries almost 1,900 passengers we must use the still-developing cruise port at Kai Tek, Hong Kong's former major airport.  Although this new cruise port is closer to the city than the new airport, it is still about 16 miles away.  Since it is so far from any of the attractions or businesses of the city, very few taxis come out here unless they have to.  So if one is disembarking and heading for the new airport, it is a major hassle to find appropriate help and transportation.  For the 300 passengers returning to the ship, free shuttle buses (one every half hour) transport us to a major mall and Metro station, still rather far from the city center, but at least accessible.

My day in Hong Kong is a long one--we dock at 7:00am and do not sail until 11:00pm.  The weather is good for tourists today, but having seen many of the major attractions, I have only one specific goal:  Shanghai Egg Rolls at my favorite Chinese restaurant in Kowloon, Din Tai Fung.

My day in ultra-modern Hong Kong Kong actually begins with a walk through a traditional area in Kowloon, eventually leading to Shanghai Street (deja vu), with its long rows of shops and signs.

I eventually reach Nathan Road, one of the major shopping and transportaion arteries of Kowloon, with its touts and shoppers.  Every once in a while commerce is interrupted by a traditional temple or peaceful park.

Steps in Kowloon Park Connecting Nathan and Canton Roads, the
Two Busiest Shopping Streets

While Nathan Road has its roots in 19th-century British commerce, Canton Road, one long block to the west, is strictly 21st-century high fashion, with flagship stores of every major brand squeezed between malls reaching to the clouds above and several stories below the surface as well.

Shoppers Lining Up to Be Admitted to a Gucci Showroom

The west side of Canton Road is lined with malls topped with hotels.  Behind the row of hotels is one of the largest malls, in fact a series of inter-connected malls--Ocean Plaza and Harbour City--through which one passes to reach the older cruise port I decribed above.

A Chinese Cruise Ship Reflected in the Mirrored Walls of the Mall

At the end of Canton Road stands the old Clock Tower and the  Star Ferry that connects Kowloon to Hong kong Island.

Today, however, passage to the ferry is blocked by a religious parade of bright colors and heavy floats.

So it is time to take a taxi back to the new cruise port to re-board the waiting Westerdam, which remains in Hong Kong until 11pm, presenting wonderful views of the lights of both Kowloon and Hong Island as we prepare to sail.  From Hong Kong we will continue to hug the coast of China as we sail north to Shanghai, our next port.   The one long day in Hong Kong is the mid-point of my cruise and introduces 1,300 new passengers, as many of the people I have greeted or avoided every day, have disappeared into the vast miasma of former and forgotten travel companions.