Tuesday, 10 December 2024

Harvest Caye, Belize

This morning the Marina is anchored off the port of Harvest Caye, Belize. This private island is owned by Norwegian Cruise Lines, the parent company of Oceania and Regent. Oceania’s newest cruise ship, ms Vista, is already docked at the only pier. As we sail toward the island early this morning the sky is ominously dark and soft rain is falling quietly on the sea. But by 9am, when Marina drops anchor, the clouds and rain are gone and the sun shines brightly on the blue-green water.

We have made-to-order eggs for breakfast in the Terrace Cafe. Of course, we have all the usual accompaniments of juice, coffee, yogurt, fresh fruit, and sausage. Along with this we have fresh croissants, traditional ones for both of us, plus one chocolate for Will, and one almond for me.

Today we are going on an Oceania shore excursion, “Placencia Lagoon Wildlife & Mangrove.” Tour participants meet in the Marina Lounge at 9:00 and we are called very quickly to board the large tenders supplied by the island management, instead of the smaller lifeboats from the ship. As we walk toward the gangway, something truly extraordinary happens:  for the very first time on all my 35 cruises I discover that I left my Marina keycard, absolutely necessary for getting off and on the ship, in our stateroom. I pull Will out of the tender line, borrow his keycard to open our stateroom, and sprint from midship deck four to the elevators to aft starboard on deck 10, find my keycard on the table and sprint in reverse the journey to the tender. We are the last two passengers to fit on the tender, but we make the tour in time.

From the busy tour center we board a small boat that will take us around Palencia Lagoon in search of its inhabitants. Besides the boat pilot, we are accompanied by Edward, an excellent local guide, and his assistant who serves up rum punch for those who wish to imbibe. The lagoon's brackish water is home to a variety of fish, birds, reptiles, and mammals, including a sub-species of the Florida manatee. These large sluggish mammals spend most of their lives underwater in shallow areas where they constantly feed on the sea grass that thrives there. Because they breathe through their nostrils (like humans), they must surface every 28 minutes, even when asleep. They are difficult to spot because their heads surface for about four seconds before going back underwater for another 28 minutes. In fact, we do not see any during our ride.

Edward, Our Excellent Guide

Our Boat Awaits Us at the Dock

A Fake Lighthouse Support a Real Zipline for Tourists

Not Statues at Sea, But Tourists Looking for Manatees

But we do see many large birds and several colorful iguanas. Because these waters are a natural conservation area, the inhabitants do not fear their human visitors.  In fact, some of them seem to enjoy posing for us as we glide along quietly. 

A Large Sea Bird Is Ready for Her Close-up

A White Heron Reflects Herself in the Lagoon

A Striped Iguana Sunbathes on a Residential Lawn

Did You Know Iguanas Like to Climb Trees?

A Collection of Cormorants

Harvest Caye itself is totally devoted to tourism, but other small islands are used as shipping ports, primarily bananas and sugar. We also pass the bottom end of a peninsula that stretches from Belize mainland, with roads and cars and some expensive housing occupied mainly by expatriates from the US and Europe.

Our journey ends back at the cruiseport where we are able to catch a motorized tram to take us to the waiting tender to return us to the Marina. On board we have Reuben sandwiches for a late lunch in the Waves Cafe.

Tonight we enjoy another fine meal--and another bottle of Montaudon Champagne-- in the Grand Dining Room. Will begins with a crab cake with remoulade sauce, followed by grilled salmon with Chiron sauce, green beans, and rice. I have a shrimp cocktail with horseradish sauce and sirloin roast with roast potato and vegetable timbale. Dessert is key lime pie for Will and strawberry sorbet for me.