I am at home in Tucson, resting up from a wonderful trip. This was a really important trip for me psychologically, after five months of being really depressed about my retina problem, I needed to prove to myself that I really am okay and that I can handle the rigors of travelling again. Unfortunately, I pulled something in my back on the way home—probably from carting around a very heavy carry-on—but that’s a minor problem that rest and a heating pad seem to be resolving. So I will carry on with the final few days of the trip since I left you all in Newcastle-upon-Tyne.

Wednesday 10 August:  At Sea on the Eurodam

Today is a good day to relax and to start thinking about packingfor arrival in Dover on Friday. I don’t think I have mentioned the very handsome Assistant Head Dining Room Steward, who appears in dress uniform every evening to greet travelers in the main dining room. This morning I see him in the Lido Buffet having lunch—I haven’t seen him anywhere else on board except the dining room—so I decide to introduce myself and chat. Of course, while I am making small talk, the ship does a slight bump and the desserts I am carrying slide off the plate onto the table right in front of him—very ungraceful and embarrassing. At least it all landed on the table and not his lap!  

The other event of the day is getting back my passport (which I surrendered when boarding in Copenhagen) and going through British immigration (to speed things up when we land in Dover).

Tonight’s final formal dinner has all my favorites:  escargot Bourgignon, Caesar Salad, and Surf and Turf, which my waiter kindly transforms to Surf and Surf—two very large and wonderful lobster tails, skillfully de-tailed for me at the table.  He offers to bring the steak as well, or another lobster tail, but I demure, saving myself for the Baked Alaska dessert—a traditional Holland America pageant on the final formal night of every cruise. I finish wine bottle number four tonight and will give number five a go tomorrow. I probably should have ordered individual bottles rather than the package, but I sure enjoyed the imbibing and slept very well.

Thursday 11 August:  Zeebrugge and Bruges

The final day of the cruise brings the Eurodam to Zeebrugge, Belgium, the port of Bruges. Holland America provides free shuttle-bus service from the ship to Blankenberg, a 15-minute drive, from where I catch the train for another 15-minute ride to Bruges, the charming medieval city that is on everyone’s European must-see list. I have been several times before and although the city still retains its architectural charm, like everywhere else it has become highly commercialized, with literally rows of “famous Belgian chocolate” shops on every street.

After the return journey to the ship I finish packing and decide to give an extra gratuity to my two dining room server and wine steward--al of whom have been excellent. An automatic daily gratutity fee is added to every passenger's bill for the cabin and dining room steward--this is how it works on almost all cruise lines now--and extra tipping isn't necessary. But I think it's importat to reward especially good service,even if it's only a small amount of cash and a personal note.

Luggage has to be outside the cabin door by 2 am, so it's time to go through all the paper and  brochures I've managed to collect and decide what is really necessary to cart home.

The next blog entry will finsh up with London and theatre.
 

I have checked in for my flight tomorrow and have my ticket for the Heathrow Express from Paddington Station.  Now I just have to get back to the hotel and pack--before I go out for dinner and one more play.

Wednesday, 10 August 2011:  At SeaIt's another restful day as we sail down the North Sea from Newcastle to Zeebrugge, Belgium. Tonight's final formal dinner is surf and turf--but I opt for surf and surf (two lobster tails without the steak). It is also time to start the packing process and gather all my dirty clothes--even though I have had laundry done several times, everything still seems to be dirty again.

Thursday, 11 August 2012:  Zeebrugge and Bruges

I spend a very nice day in Bruges today but I will save the details for when I have more time to post.

Sunday, 14 August 2011:  London

Another short posting from London just to keep things going.  Almost all the important Underground lines are closed for maintenance this weekend--lucky me.  But the buses do quite nicely.

Have seen the harrowing production of Journey's End, about the trenches in WWI, and the revised version of Sondheim's Bounce which is now know as Road Show.  Will try for one more show tomorrow. Enjoyed a posh lunch at the restaurant atop the National Portrait Gallery, with wonderful views over Trafalgar Square and the London Eye.  I guess I will get around to taking the Eye sometime, but the lines are just much too long now.

London is very crowded but the sun is shining and everyone is in good spirits.  I had a good night's sleep at the Hilton last night, but I swear the waves were quite high as I sloshed about in the bed. Was rougher than the 12 nights at sea.

More when I return to the US.

Friday, 12 August:  London

Just a short entry today to let you all know I am in London, getting used to being on land again--and having to find my own places to eat.

London is very crowded and hectic--am I getting too old?  But I do have some theatre tix and the weather is good so I won't complain.

I will continue with my adventures in a couple of days.

Bye for now.

We sail to Dover late tonight, so this may be my last post until I get set up in London. But don't worry I will continue with the rest of the trip--even if I have to do it from home in Tucson.

Tuesday 9 August:  Newcastle-upon-Tyne

This afternoon’s shore excursion begins with a coach ride north along the coast of Northumberland, sixth largest of Britain’s counties as well as the most sparsely populated. Because the county runs from the River Tyne in the south to the River Tweed in the north it has always been disputed territory between the Scots and the Brits, resulting in many ruined castles rising from the fertile landscape. But today’s destination is Alnwick (pronounced Annick) Castle, the second largest in Britain (after Windsor) and currently occupied by the 12^th Duke of Northumberland. Among the Northumberland family descendants is Charles Smithson, creator and benefactor of the Smithsonian Institution in Washington.

The guided tour takes us around the outer grounds and through a number of family and state rooms (with four major Canaletto’s on the walls).  The site is popular for family outings as a result of being used in the first two Harry Potter films. Unfortunately there are too many entertainers in Hogwarts costumes breaking the serenity and peace of the surroundings.

The bus takes us back to the Eurodam via the motorway, passing fields of pink and purple heather and giving great views of Cheviot, the highest of the Borders hills. Although the guide is quite good he insists on talking all the way back to the ship and I am sitting directly beneath the speakers that cannot be lowered in volume. Rather than go deaf, I ride the hour-long journey with my arms tightly wound about my head and ears—not a pretty picture but it keeps some of the sound out.

Dinner and Sail Away

We sail out of Newcastle about one hour late, and I have wonderful views as the ship glides up the River Tyne and out into the North Sea. Tonight’s late-night buffet is the famous “Chocolate Extravaganza,” a regular feature of every Holland America cruise. But since I enjoyed a wonderful deep-dish apple pie with vanilla ice cream for dessert, I head for bed and not for the buffet. 

Monday 8 August:  South Queensferry and Edinburgh

It’s another beautiful day in spite of the captain’s dire predictions; doesn’t he have the Weather Channel up on the bridge? The internet has been VERY SLOW and sometimes impossible to use at all.  So I will keep writing the blog and then publish them all at the same time.

After a waffle breakfast in the Lido I take the 11 am tender from the ship, which is anchored just downward from the famous Firth of Forth bridges.  The older one is for railway only and has appeared in many famous movies, the most iconic of which is Hitchcock’s original version of The 39 Steps. The newer one takes auto traffic. The tender deposits us in the village of South Queensberry.  There is a very long line waiting for buses and taxis into Edinburgh, so I choose to walk the 135 steps up to the forest path that leads to the local train station at Dalmeny. From here it’s a 20-minute ride into Edinburgh’s Waverley Station.

To save myself from walking up too many more hills, I forego the Medieval part of town with its Castle and Ladymile Walk.  I’ve done that a number of times. Instead I concentrate on the New Town, developed in the 18^th century. It’s a lovely walk past rows of three and four story townhouses built of stone, facing a series of public gardens. In the center of town I visit the National Gallery for a snack and a smattering of culture. From the museum back to Waverley Station is a walk through Prince’s Gardens and the central shopping district.

I make the 3:08 pm train back to Dalmeny and the walk down to South Queensferry. South Queensferry is a lovely firth-side village composed of one street lined with quaint shops and houses. I indulge in some take-away chips (that’s French fries for the uninitiated). After taking a gazillion pictures of the bridges, I tender back to the ship

Dinner and Sail Away

The Eurodam does not sail until 1 am on Tuesday (tomorrow) and lots of folk have opted to take the nighttime tour that includes performances of the “Edinburgh Royal Tattoo,” so the dining room is pretty empty at 8 pm.  In fact I am the only diner in the small section of five tables where I regularly sit.  The tomato caprese salad is not great (it’s the tomatoes’ fault), but the London Broil is prepared perfectly—in fact, the most tender and tasty London Broil I’ve ever eaten. It comes with the usual root vegetables and a twice-baked potato. Titus, my primary dinner steward, has been upset that I haven’t been eating enough desserts, so I have vanilla ice cream with chocolate sauce just to make him happy.

Saturday 6 August:  A Quiet Day at Sea

It was a bit rocky at sea last, so I decided to use a patch behind my ear just in case—but by morning things had settled down to a calm sway.   My plan for the day is to relax and catch up on eating, sleeping, and blogging.

I do not recognize many of the crew; Holland America rotates them among their 12 other ships after each two-year contract is up. I do learn that Anthony, my former wine steward, is now on the Noordam, and I chat briefly with Ian, the tour guide, who has been on the Eurodam for several years now.

Mariner’s Lunch

Passengers who have sailed with Holland America previously are invited to a “Mariner’s Brunch” at 11:30 am in the Main Dining Room, with free drinks and wine, and the presentation of another blue-and-white tile to add to my collection. Lunch is a warm salmon and arugula salad, broccoli and cheddar quiche, and a white-and-dark chocolate tart.  I am currently a 2-star Mariner but this cruise will put me in the three-star category (the equivalent of 75 day and spending point).  It takes 200 points to reach the top four-star category—so it may be a while before I make that one.

In the early evening I call Will in Tucson on my cell phone.  It gets better service here at sea than it does at home.  For some reason, the phone works only when we are at sea, not while in port (even though the internet works all the time).  I actually make it to the daily LBGT mixer at 7 pm, but since I am the only person there I don’t think I’ll stay long.  I have seen a good number of fellow gay passengers around the ship, so maybe they have been at the earlier mixers.

Tonight’s second formal dinner consists of duck pate brioche, roasted shallot and butternut squash soup with sliced beet garnish, and Osso Buco over mushroom risotto, and strawberry ice cream for dessert.

Sunday 7 August:  Invergordan and the Scottish Highlands

I’ll continue on for a while with the start of my Scottish adventures.

I have room service breakfast as we sail up the Cromety Firth to dock at the village of Invergordan.  Today is the only day of real rain and, of course, it’s an all-day outing down the lochs and over the hills and munros (Scottish for anything over 3,000 feet). We drive down the western side of Loch Ness, looking in vain for Nessie (and her boyfriend) hiding in the misty waters.  We pass the ruins of Urquhart Castle before turning inland and westward across the glens to Ailan Donan Castle, one of those quintessential medieval castles (that has been rebuilt and remodeled many time over the centuries).  I’m told that the castle has appeared in a number of films but I don’t recognize it at all.  After a tour of the castle, we each receive a catered box lunch, with typically Scottish fare:  smoked salmon, shortbread cookies, local caramel, fruit and juices. The rain stops briefly enough to enjoy lunch at a picnic table overlooking the castle.

Before returning to Invergordon, the bus takes us over the bridge to the Island of Skye, the largest island off the Scottish coast.  We then head back on a different route that follows the railroad from its end point at Kyle of Lochais through the glens and alongside four small firths. There is purple and pink heather everywhere, softening the rocky crags of the hills. We make a brief stop in the Victorian spa town of Strathpeffer before returning to the Eurodam in time for our 5 pm sail away.

The captain is predicting a rough day for tomorrow as we anchor in the Firth of Forth and tender in to South Queensferry.  Here’s hoping he is just as wrong about tomorrow as he was about the weather for Oslo.

Friday 5 August:  Ålesund

At last we reach what I expected to be quintessential western Norwegian scenery.  The small city of Ålesund (pronounced Olsun) is on a series of small islands connected by bridges and tunnels. The Norwegians just love building tunnels.

Most of the city was destroyed by a mammoth fire in the early part of the 20^th century when almost everything was built frrom the easily-available wood from nearby forests.  A few wooden structures by the fish market survived the fire, but everything else not made of stone, brick or concrete was destroyed. Today only non-wooden structures are permitted in the city center. The result of the fire (in which no one lost his life) was the rebuilding of the city in the then-popular Jugendstil (Art Nouveau).  Although Alesund doesn't quite rank with Nancy in France, there is a fine museum and some lovely painted building decorations.

After spending a couple of hours walking in the city—and making judicious stops at cafés and galleries--I head back to the ship for lunch and the four-hour shore excursion that begins at 2:30 pm. This tour is the highlight of the cruise, so far.  After a drive through the city, the coach takes us to two different viewpoints above the city (Aksla and Hessa) for views that extend over the islands and nearby fjords. Then it’s a two-hour small-boat cruise on the Hjungerfjord, a narrow and deep channel that cuts it way through verdant valleys and high mountains still covered with snow and the last remnants of the glaciers that carved the fjord.

When we return to the ship around 7 pm, I make the mistake of walking across the Lido Pool Deck where there is an international buffet with a huge selection of foods from around the world. I swear I will have only one Bratwurst to keep me going until dinner—but one Bratwurst has a way of becoming two—and there is an array of side dishes and desserts.  So tonight I will not make it to the dining room.

We sail away at 8:30 pm and I look forward to a quiet day at sea tomorrow, but will first have to suffer a somewhat rough night tonight--but more on that tomorrow.



First some photos of wooden houses Kristiansand

Thursday 4 August:  Bergen

I wake with the light to early morning rain, but the sky clears as we pass under two suspension bridges that connect Bergen, the capital of the fjords, with the rest of Norway.  Large bridges are not a common sight in Norway, since it is the tunnel-building capital of the world (more on the tunnels later)—as well as the per capita pizza consumption capital (who knew?).

Since this my second visit to Bergen, I decide to take an all-day tour to the Hardangerfjord. On my fist visit in 1968 I was a poor graduate student spending some nights on trains to avoid the expensive hotels of Scandinavia (expensive for Europe even then in 1968). After departing from Bergen the bus crosses the Fusafjord by a 10-minute ferry ride.  We drive through the countryside for two hours—much too quickly—and without many stops (unfortunately); the changing landscapes seem to whiz by.  We do make a brief stop at the Holdhus church, built entirely of wood in 1726 (on the foundation of an earlier 1306 Stave church). And then another hour on the bus until we reach the fjord-side Hardangerfjord Hotel for a buffet lunch of all the choice goodies of Norwegian cuisine (several kinds of salmon, herring, salads, and breads).

After enjoying the scenic beauty of the hotel we are driving again alongside the fjord.  This particular fjord is one of the widest and deepest in Norway.  The return ride over and under the mountains to Bergen is much shorter than the outbound trip.  We make stops at a waterfall you can walk under and several other viewpoints. There are about 35 tunnels cutting through the countryside between the fjord and Bergen. The deep rock drilling the Norwegians developed for their oil industry is used for infrastructure that connects the cities without destroying the environment. The highlight of the trip back to the ship is the tour guide’s reading of several typical Norwegian fairy-tales, involving three brothers who have a marked resemblance to Cinderella and her sisters.

Although I enjoyed the scenery and took lots of pictures, this excursion involved too much bus riding and by the time we returned to the ship there wasn’t any time to see Bergen again at all.

Sail Away and Dinner

As the ship prepares to leave Bergen at 5 pm, I finally run into Tom (from Tucson) who tells me that he and Melody have decided to forgo the formalities of the dining room. We sail north up the coast during dinner:  veal and mushroom ragout in puff pastry, Caesar salad with anchovies, Coho salmon in teriyaki sauce, and a fruit platter—along with the start of a bottle of Pinot Grigot. There is much too much to eat.  I really shouldn’t have had that pizza snack at 4 pm.

I’m way behind in keeping up the blog, so I will skip the chit-chat for today and get right back to . . .

Wednesday 3 August:  Kristiansand

After my morning sleep-in, I leave the ship around 10:30 am. Kristiansand is a small city (Norway’s second largest) that reminds me very much of Christchurch, New Zealand. Situated at the very southernmost point of Norway, it’s a place for strolling and lolling, since there are no “must-see” attractions. But there is a new opera house under construction right at the seafront where the Eurodam docks and the results of a sand-sculpture contest at the town beach not too far away. The cathedral and town hall sit at the center of the city and there is (as in most European cities) a pedestrians-only shopping zone. The highlight of Kristiansand is the Poselyn neighborhood, five square blocks of wooden houses that survived the fire of 1892. I think the theme of this trip will be “domestic architecture,” since Norway provides such a variety of wonderful examples.

I return to the ship for a late lunch (corned beef and Swiss cheese sandwich) and at 4 pm we slip out of the harbor heading west and north to Bergen. So far it has been very smooth and quiet sailing—and I seem to have lucked out and planned my visit for Norway’s two-week summer weather.

First Formal Night

Tonight is the first formal night and my blue blazer and red tie will have to do.  There aren’t many tuxedoes in the dining room and I’m glad I decided to leave mine home for this cruise. Tonight’s dinner is jumbo shrimp cocktail, duck paté in warm puff pastry, and rack of lamb with mustard-garlic sauce. The dining staff is excellent and I am continually reminded how much better the food and service is on Holland America than it was on the Cunard Mediterranean cruise last October.

The sun doesn’t set until well after 10 pm and after dinner I stroll the decks and watch the gently rolling shoreline as we sail quietly up the North Sea.

The web is very slow tonight, so no pictures--will try to add some tomorrow.

Wednesday Afternoon 3 August:  Kristiansand to Bergen

I slept in until 9:30 this morning, since Kristiansand, close to the southernmost point of Norway, doesn’t have any must-see sights and I know the next few days will keep me very busy.  At breakfast I told a gentlemen (probably not much older than I) who was filling two thermoses full of coffee to let through those of us who hadn’t had their first cup yet—especially since there is a notice that asks passengers not to fill bottles and containers. When he gave me a dirty look I told him that Holland America gives me extra mariner points (like frequent flyer miles) to call attention to assholes.  I didn’t actually say that but I think it’s a good line to use in the future.

But now back to my narrative . . .

Tuesday 2 August:  Another Day in Oslo

The panorama of Oslo that spreads directly outside my stateroom window is spectacular, covering the entire waterfront from the shopping district of Aker Brygge on the west to the Nobel Center and City Hall in front to Akershus Fortress (I’ll eventually get the spelling right) on the east.  The early morning sunshine makes me an early rise and spend an hour on the computer in my stateroom before heading to the Lido for a breakfast of French Toast, patty sausage (the kind that Will likes), fresh fruit, and very hot coffee. Everyone has lightened up about the germ scare so self-service and real salt and pepper shakers have returned to the dining area (although hand sanitizing is available everywhere).

The Nobel Peace Center contains inter-active exhibits on the history of Norway’s role in European wars of the 20^th century, as well as current issues of warfare and displaced persons. The Center is housed, ironically, in the former home of Quisling, the notorious Norwegian traitor. Across the square is the bleakly modernist Town Hall, with its iconic towers and clock face.  The red brick exterior is stark, square, and dour, but the interior is richly decorated with wildly-colored murals, paintings, wall hangings and majolica tiles.  There is a great view of the Eurodam (I can see my stateroom window) from the windows of the second-floor reception room.

I hop a tram for a 10-minute ride to the Norwegian Architecture Center, a private organization occupying an old converted warehouse. The current exhibit, about using gigantic windmills to both create energy and to house hotels and services for tourists, contains a worthy idea and a striking visual image. The Center also provides a brochure identifying all the historical structures in central Oslo. Another irony:  right next door is a collection of tents in a living city protesting the plight of the homeless around the world.  

Then another tram back to Central Station to find an ATM—remember how much time and trouble it used to take to exchange currencies—and a post office.  I follow the map from the Architecture Center for the short walk to the National Architecture Museum (part of the system of National Galleries), which is much more interesting than the Center, with beautifully arranged displays with recent examples of the best of Norwegian projects around the world.  From the Museum it’s a very short walk through the grounds of Akershus Fortress—just at the right time for the changing of the guard—to the ship for a very late lunch.

Sailing from Oslo

At 4 pm the Eurodam backs out of its berth, turns 180 degrees (on the proverbial kroner) in the harbor, and begins the four-hour sail back down the Oslofjord and then overnight to Kristiansand. The bow of the ship is open to passengers for this part of the cruise and Ian, the tour director (he’s still here), provides commentary.

Tonight’s dinner theme seems to be German, since there is both Wiener Schnitzel and Sauerbraten on the menu.  I have the former, which is tender and golden-fried. Even better are the wonderful pan-fried potatoes and onions.  I start a new bottle of wine, a Diseño Argentine Malbec from 2009, which is superior to the Cabernet I had been drinking.  My next-table neighbors from Tucson have not appeared in the dining room for the past two nights—I guess they want to mingle with people NOT from Tucson—although the snowbirds across the way have been here regularly.  I don’t think I will make it to the Norwegian buffet at 11 pm, even though it sounds very tempting.

Oslo City Hall

 Oslo City Hall-Main Reception Room

Oslo City Hall-Main Reception Room

Norwegian Architecture Center

Tuesday Evening 2 August:  Oslo to Kristiansand

After a second beautiful day in Oslo and another marathon eating session at dinner, I plan on a quiet night and a late morning wake-up tomorrow in Kristiansand, Norway’s southernmost port.  For some reason, Deck 10, at the top of the ship has some internet reception problems.  The techie in the computer center suggested I try it with my stateroom door open—and behold, it works quite well.

Monday 1 August:  Sailing to Oslo

The sun rises very early and doesn’t set until close to 10 pm, so these are some very long days. It takes about four hours this morning to sail up the Oslofjord. Yesterday the captain predicted rain, but it has turned out to be a beautiful and warm day (mid 70s).  At some points the fjord is so narrow you feel you can touch both shores with a long paddle; at other times it widens, dotted with green islands.  It is like a much tamer version of Alaska, but without the forbidding sense of chill and ice. The mountains are much lower, of course, and lushly green.  The shore is dotted with small towns and isolated cabins, but grows more crowded as we approach Oslo.  From the upper decks, it seems as if the ship is gliding silently between the shores, accompanied by random sail and motorboats. In the dim distance ahead, I can see the Royal Caribbean ship that left Copenhagen just before the Eurodam.

We dock in Oslo at noon, one hour ahead of schedule. The dock is almost directly opposite City Hall and alongside the Akerhaus Fortress.  From my window at the front of the ship I can see the panorama of the city spread before me. I decide to try the “Hop On-Hop Off” tourist bus that the ship’s tour guide recommends in every city.  The entire route takes about 90 minutes to circle the main sights of the city, but it’s not really my cup of tea and I prefer to use mass transit.  However, I take the bus ride up the hills to Frogner Park, site of the Viegeland sculpture garden. It all seems rather tacky and kitsch today compared to my memories from 1968, when it seemed immense and extraordinary.

Then it’s a tram and subway ride back to the city center.  Oslo seems to have returned to normalcy after last week’s tragic events, but even the visiting Liverpool football fans in their ubiquitous red jerseys seem somewhat subdued (thank goodness). There are make-shift memorials in various places around the city and it reminds me eerily of 9/11.  I manage to walk to the National Theatre, the Storget (Parliament), Cathedral, Railway Station, ending with the day’s highlight:  the newly-built Opera House, a spectacular 21^st-century building that dominates the cityscape as much as the mid 20^th-century Sydney Opera House does. The immense lobby is constructed of marble, glass and Norwegian wood.  The exterior roof slopes down from the top of the stage at the rear to the plaza in the front—and is open for strolling and other outdoor activities, providing extensive views over the city and harbor.

Evening on the Eurodam

I choose to have a short nap before dinner and skip the GLBT mixer—it’s a sign of the times that they don’t call it “Friends of Dorothy” anymore.  Dinner begins with a yogurt-based chilled cranberry soup, followed by Caesar salad with anchovies, beef tenderloins (four large slices) in wild mushroom sauce with roasted potato logs and mixed vegetables. Dessert is a “chocolate platter,” with three kinds of chocolate (“corn flakes,” dark chocolate bar, white chocolate garnish). I almost finish off the bottle of Cabernet from last night and tipsily make my way back to my stateroom.

More of Oslo tomorrow.

 

Docking in Oslo

Frogner Park

Memorial at Cathedral

Oslo Opera House

Monday Evening 1 August:  Overnight in Oslo

The Eurodam sailed quietly up the beautiful Oslofjord to dock directly in front of the Askerhus Fortress and within spitting distance of City Hall and the city center.  The captain had predicted rain but it has been a day of warm sunshine and lilting breezes—a wonderful cliché of Scandinavian weather.  I hope he is a better mariner than meteorologist.  But first back to Sunday in Copenhagen.

Sunday 31 July:  A Short Morning in Copenhagen

The breakfast buffet at the hotel is a typically Scandinavian affair with enough eggs, cold cuts, fruits, salads, and breads to stuff Hans Christian Andersen (if he hadn’t eaten those pastries yesterday).  The dining room has an amazing machine that brews seven different kinds of coffee with the push of a button—from straight black to cappuccino to caffe latte.

After breakfast I use the bus and metro to visit Christianshavn, the small island just east of city center with a mix of neighborhoods ranging from the remnants of the old fishing village to gentrified town houses and the new opera house.  Lots of small boutiques and craft shops line the narrow, cobbled streets—but window shopping only since it’s Sunday morning.  There are, however, many coffee shops open with patrons enjoying the outdoor sunshine along with their newspapers and coffees.

Then a taxi back to the hotel to get my stuff together for checkout and another taxi ride to the northern part of the city where several cruise ships are docked and the Eurodam is waiting.  The taxi driver is a young man from Somalia, who just recently gained his Danish passport.  When I asked about the difficulty of learning the Danish language, he replied that it was as difficult as the effort a person puts into it.  But it took him about two years just to learn enough Danish to make basic communications. Needless to say, he also speaks English quite well. I keep forgetting that this is NOT America and no one expects a tip; my small gratuities are received with graciousness and often a surprised thank you.

Boarding the Eurodam

No free upgrade to a verandah this trip, but I am very happy with my extra-large stateroom on the top deck with a large window looking directly over the bow.  The cabin seems almost twice the size of the one Will and I had on Cunard last fall.

A light lunch in the Lido Buffet—where there is no self-service until two days after we leave Copenhagen to cut down the chances of spreading GI ailments.  I have been through this drill before and you get used to washing your hands and using hand sanitizer everywhere you go on board. As Captain Nemo once said, “Better clean than scary.”  Highlights of lunch are country pate and gravalax—with wonderful chocolate ice cream for dessert.

After making sure that I have a solo table to myself in the dining room, I decide to order the five-bottle wine package.  Just because I’m not travelling formal this time, doesn’t mean I have to travel sober.  I am sorry to learn that my wine steward friend, Anthony, is no longer on the Eurodam, although the staff members I ask remember him quite well.

Sail Away and Dinner

At the 5 pm sail-away party, the crew serves up a real American-style cookout beside the Lido Deck pool.  The aromas are overpowering and I am forced to have a second lunch (it’s been a very active day):  barbecue chicken, ribs, and a skewer of vegetables. Yummy.

My dining table is situated perfectly in the center of a small defined area suspended over the atrium that looks down on the lower floor of the two-level room.  There are just five two-person tables in the area and it’s quite like having a private dining room.  I can see over both sides of the atrium as well as the second floor dining room that surrounds the area.  Anthony may be gone, but wine steward Maya, a young woman from the Philippines, makes a charming substitute.  The main server, Titus, is perfect too.

But the most amazing thing is that on this first night three of the five tables in the area are occupied—ALL by people from Tucson!  Did someone plan this or did some diabolical computer decide to play a wicked joke?  What are the odds with 2000 passengers on board?  The couple at the table to my right (Melody and Tom) moved from Chicago to Tucson about the same time Will and I arrived and live in the Tucson Mountains, just west of Ina and Silverbell (for other Tucsonans who might be reading this). The couple at the table across from me are snowbirds, who spend half the year in Calgary and half the year in Tucson.  Just amazing!

All this magic almost makes me forget to talk about food.  Dinner begins with smoked duck carpaccio with figs in a balsamic reduction, with a garnish of creamy coleslaw, followed by hot tomato soup Florentine, with fresh spinach and pine nuts, spice-crusted prime rib (cooked perfectly), with mashed potatoes, carrots, and asparagus, topped off with my favorite dessert:  Burgundy cherry ice cream.

Then it’s off to bed and sweet dreams.

The next blog entry will take you to Oslo.

Christianshavn

Christianshavn

Sailing from Copenhagen

Sunday Evening 31 July:  Sailing from Copenhagen

I have just finished my first dinner in the dining room and—very drunk and very full and very satisfied—I am heading to bed while the ship sails north from Copenhagen through the Oresund and into the very long Oslofjord, arriving in Oslo just after noon tomorrow.

Since this is really my first major posting since leaving Tucson, I will fill in the details of travel getting to Copenhagen and the ship—that should cover Thursday, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday.  So keep awake while you read.

Thursday 28 July-Friday 29 July:  New York City Again

Early morning Delta flights take me from Tucson to Atlanta to New York-LaGuardia for a one night stay with Helen on 15^th Street.  The weather is much cooler than it was during my visit last week, so on Friday morning I head out for Union Square and a trip to Macy’s to buy last minute stuff for the trip.  I had a computer battery death just before I left Tucson, so I had Dell rush deliver a new battery to Helen’s; it arrives at 3 pm and by 3:10 the old battery is out and the new battery in (really easy to do).  Good thing the delivery was on time since the car service to JFK picks me up at 5:30 pm.  Getting through the Midtown tunnel is hell; the short trip from 15^th Street through the tunnel takes 45 minutes—twice as long as it takes from the tunnel to JFK.

My 10:10 pm Delta flight from JFK to Copenhagen boards on time, but we sit at the gate for an hour while they fiddle with the “entertainment” system.  Then it’s another hour while we taxi and wait for take-off.  We finally get into the air two hours late, but make up an hour during the seven-hour flight.  The “Comfort Economy” seat is very nice:  extra leg room and reclining pitch—I can stretch my legs out all the way.  But strangely, the plane is a Boeing 757, a jet with one aisle and three seats on each side.  On the Delta booking page it was supposed to be a wide-body, with four aisle seats in each row (instead of the two on the 757).  Needless to say there are a number of unhappy pilgrims who thought they had booked aisle seats but ended up in the middle.  I am lucky and land my requested aisle seat.

After a quick dinner of spinach and bell pepper pasta, I settle in for a good five-hour sleep (with the aid of drugs, of course).

Saturday 30 July:  Copenhagen

After a very skimpy breakfast, we arrive to sunny skies in the early afternoon and my new “Jeep” luggage (don’t ask) survives the trip quite well and keeps my clothes freshly pressed (there is nothing as good as a cheap suitcase).  The Hotel First Vesterbrogade is well-located, just two blocks from the center of Copenhagen—City Hall and Tivoli.  And what a treat (for a Tucsonan) to have ice cold water fresh from the tap in the bathroom!

After a quick shower I head for a walk through town, with the help of some very fine pastries from the Hans Andersen Bakery (there was a three for the price of two special).  I have an early dinner at an outdoor café in the Stroget, the city’s pedestrians-only main shopping street—the highlight was an ice-cold Tuborg draft.  Then back to the hotel and a long night’s rest.

And speaking of rest, I will conclude this entry for now and continue the next blog entry with Sunday morning in Copenhagen and the late afternoon sail away on the Eurodam.

My hotel in Copenhagen (above)

Painted elephants all over Copenhagen (above)

Good night to all.