I slept in until 9:30 this morning, since Kristiansand, close to the southernmost point of Norway, doesn’t have any must-see sights and I know the next few days will keep me very busy. At breakfast I told a gentlemen (probably not much older than I) who was filling two thermoses full of coffee to let through those of us who hadn’t had their first cup yet—especially since there is a notice that asks passengers not to fill bottles and containers. When he gave me a dirty look I told him that Holland America gives me extra mariner points (like frequent flyer miles) to call attention to assholes. I didn’t actually say that but I think it’s a good line to use in the future.
But now back to my narrative . . .
Tuesday 2 August: Another Day in Oslo
The panorama of Oslo that spreads directly outside my stateroom window is spectacular, covering the entire waterfront from the shopping district of Aker Brygge on the west to the Nobel Center and City Hall in front to Akershus Fortress (I’ll eventually get the spelling right) on the east. The early morning sunshine makes me an early rise and spend an hour on the computer in my stateroom before heading to the Lido for a breakfast of French Toast, patty sausage (the kind that Will likes), fresh fruit, and very hot coffee. Everyone has lightened up about the germ scare so self-service and real salt and pepper shakers have returned to the dining area (although hand sanitizing is available everywhere).
The Nobel Peace Center contains inter-active exhibits on the history of Norway’s role in European wars of the 20th century, as well as current issues of warfare and displaced persons. The Center is housed, ironically, in the former home of Quisling, the notorious Norwegian traitor. Across the square is the bleakly modernist Town Hall, with its iconic towers and clock face. The red brick exterior is stark, square, and dour, but the interior is richly decorated with wildly-colored murals, paintings, wall hangings and majolica tiles. There is a great view of the Eurodam (I can see my stateroom window) from the windows of the second-floor reception room.
I hop a tram for a 10-minute ride to the Norwegian Architecture Center, a private organization occupying an old converted warehouse. The current exhibit, about using gigantic windmills to both create energy and to house hotels and services for tourists, contains a worthy idea and a striking visual image. The Center also provides a brochure identifying all the historical structures in central Oslo. Another irony: right next door is a collection of tents in a living city protesting the plight of the homeless around the world.
Then another tram back to Central Station to find an ATM—remember how much time and trouble it used to take to exchange currencies—and a post office. I follow the map from the Architecture Center for the short walk to the National Architecture Museum (part of the system of National Galleries), which is much more interesting than the Center, with beautifully arranged displays with recent examples of the best of Norwegian projects around the world. From the Museum it’s a very short walk through the grounds of Akershus Fortress—just at the right time for the changing of the guard—to the ship for a very late lunch.
Sailing from Oslo
At 4 pm the Eurodam backs out of its berth, turns 180 degrees (on the proverbial kroner) in the harbor, and begins the four-hour sail back down the Oslofjord and then overnight to Kristiansand. The bow of the ship is open to passengers for this part of the cruise and Ian, the tour director (he’s still here), provides commentary.
Tonight’s dinner theme seems to be German, since there is both Wiener Schnitzel and Sauerbraten on the menu. I have the former, which is tender and golden-fried. Even better are the wonderful pan-fried potatoes and onions. I start a new bottle of wine, a Diseño Argentine Malbec from 2009, which is superior to the Cabernet I had been drinking. My next-table neighbors from Tucson have not appeared in the dining room for the past two nights—I guess they want to mingle with people NOT from Tucson—although the snowbirds across the way have been here regularly. I don’t think I will make it to the Norwegian buffet at 11 pm, even though it sounds very tempting.
Oslo City Hall
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