Tuesday, August 9, 2011

Friday 5 August:  Ålesund

At last we reach what I expected to be quintessential western Norwegian scenery.  The small city of Ålesund (pronounced Olsun) is on a series of small islands connected by bridges and tunnels. The Norwegians just love building tunnels.

Most of the city was destroyed by a mammoth fire in the early part of the 20th century when almost everything was built frrom the easily-available wood from nearby forests.  A few wooden structures by the fish market survived the fire, but everything else not made of stone, brick or concrete was destroyed. Today only non-wooden structures are permitted in the city center. The result of the fire (in which no one lost his life) was the rebuilding of the city in the then-popular Jugendstil (Art Nouveau).  Although Alesund doesn't quite rank with Nancy in France, there is a fine museum and some lovely painted building decorations.

After spending a couple of hours walking in the city—and making judicious stops at cafés and galleries--I head back to the ship for lunch and the four-hour shore excursion that begins at 2:30 pm. This tour is the highlight of the cruise, so far.  After a drive through the city, the coach takes us to two different viewpoints above the city (Aksla and Hessa) for views that extend over the islands and nearby fjords. Then it’s a two-hour small-boat cruise on the Hjungerfjord, a narrow and deep channel that cuts it way through verdant valleys and high mountains still covered with snow and the last remnants of the glaciers that carved the fjord.

When we return to the ship around 7 pm, I make the mistake of walking across the Lido Pool Deck where there is an international buffet with a huge selection of foods from around the world. I swear I will have only one Bratwurst to keep me going until dinner—but one Bratwurst has a way of becoming two—and there is an array of side dishes and desserts.  So tonight I will not make it to the dining room.

We sail away at 8:30 pm and I look forward to a quiet day at sea tomorrow, but will first have to suffer a somewhat rough night tonight--but more on that tomorrow.