Tuesday 9 August: Newcastle-upon-Tyne
This afternoon’s shore excursion begins with a coach ride north along the coast of Northumberland, sixth largest of Britain’s counties as well as the most sparsely populated. Because the county runs from the River Tyne in the south to the River Tweed in the north it has always been disputed territory between the Scots and the Brits, resulting in many ruined castles rising from the fertile landscape. But today’s destination is Alnwick (pronounced Annick) Castle, the second largest in Britain (after Windsor) and currently occupied by the 12th Duke of Northumberland. Among the Northumberland family descendants is Charles Smithson, creator and benefactor of the Smithsonian Institution in Washington.
The guided tour takes us around the outer grounds and through a number of family and state rooms (with four major Canaletto’s on the walls). The site is popular for family outings as a result of being used in the first two Harry Potter films. Unfortunately there are too many entertainers in Hogwarts costumes breaking the serenity and peace of the surroundings.
The bus takes us back to the Eurodam via the motorway, passing fields of pink and purple heather and giving great views of Cheviot, the highest of the Borders hills. Although the guide is quite good he insists on talking all the way back to the ship and I am sitting directly beneath the speakers that cannot be lowered in volume. Rather than go deaf, I ride the hour-long journey with my arms tightly wound about my head and ears—not a pretty picture but it keeps some of the sound out.
Dinner and Sail Away
We sail out of Newcastle about one hour late, and I have wonderful views as the ship glides up the River Tyne and out into the North Sea. Tonight’s late-night buffet is the famous “Chocolate Extravaganza,” a regular feature of every Holland America cruise. But since I enjoyed a wonderful deep-dish apple pie with vanilla ice cream for dessert, I head for bed and not for the buffet.