Wednesday, 26 February 2014

Today is a sea day and many folk are taking the opportunity to turn bright red in the sun.  But my day starts with the adventure of the spoons in the Lido Restaurant for breakfast.  I decide to have a boiled egg, along with the usual accroutements, but I cannot find a small demi-tasse spoon with which to crack the shell and dig out the creamy yolk inside.  After putting my food down at a table, I search the service area for the right-sized spoon, but cannot find one smaller than the usual teaspoon--which won't do.  I ask several servers for help, but no one seems to know what I am asking for, until I find one of the chefs (you can identify him by his hat), who is able to find one for me.  When I get back to the table with my spoon, lo and behold, my egg and other food are gone (these people are very efficient).  So off I go to get another egg to eat with my new-found spoon, but when I return to the table, the spoon, as well as all the other silverware, has been cleared off the table.  I return to the location where the chef found the first demi-tasse spoon, but there are no more, so I scurry back to my table to find that this time all my food is gone again--except for five spoons of various sizes.  Sometimes too much efficiency is not a good thing!

My next venture is a little more successful.  The King Neptune Ceremony in honor of crossing the equator has been re-scheduled for 10:30am, and I find an unoccupied chair up against the railing on the deck just above the aft pool.  Although it has been a bright and clear morning, just before the ceremony begins the storm clouds gather and everybody runs from the brief shower.  But the show goes on and all the newby crew members who have not previously crossed the equator by ship, have the opporunity to "kiss the fish," and be given absolution by King Neptune (after a series of personal humiliations by the cruise director).

Thursday, 27 February 2014

This morning the Maasdam sails into the harbor of Vittoria, a modern city of 300,000 built on a series of islands connected by bridges.  Its sister city of Villa Vehla brings the metro area population up to about half a million.  This is a much more prosperous are than those we have previously visited, and certainly the most beautiful, with a port and beaches that suggest Rio itself on a smaller scale.  I am surprised to learn that not many tourists visit this area, The occasional cruise ship stop is about the extent of the tourist industry.  This area was the scene of major river flooding back in December (over 20 people killed), but there was not much damage to the cities themselves. 

My shore excursion begins with a drive from the port in Vittoria to the newer area of Villa Velha, crossing a 2km viaduct bridge over the bay (the 2nd longest in Brazil).  We transfer from large tour buses to smaller vans to make the journey up a winding road into the hills to visit a still-active Franciscan monastary--with spectacular panoramic views of the surrounding areas.  We also stop for short walks on two of the most popular and beautiful beaches in the area, with clean white sands and turquoise water.  The final stop is a visit to a local pottery that produces cooking utensils used in most ordinary Brazilian kitches.  Not very beautiful, but quite functional.

It really is quite remarkable how everything becomes cleaner and more efficient as we get nearer to Rio (which used to be the national capital before the creation of Brasilia in the interior), although this is also due to the many businesses headquartered here. 

Back on the Maasdam, the highlight of dinner is a very fine chicken piccata and the last bottle of my wine package.  We are supposed to depart from Vittoria at 5pm, but are rescheduled until 7pm due to the shallowness of the river currents--and then delayed until 8pm by the unexpected arrival of a very large tanker blocking our way.  The port is too narrow for the ship to turn around so we sail backwards during dinner until we reach a point where we can twirl to starboard.  After dinner, the night views of the city, with the illuminated churches and bridges, provide a lovely farewell to the city.

I wish I could be sharing photos with you, but I will have to wait until I return to Tucson.  I guess I will have to go back to taking my laptop with me, since the iPad doesn't work well with uploading photos to the blog and the computers on board don't have the ability to accept flashdrives. 

Last night the Maasdam travelled the relatively short distance from Recife to Maceio, capital of the state of Pernambuco, a city of about one million (and the subject of a song in Frank Loesser's early musical, Where's Charley?  Although it is not on the usual tourist circuit, Maceio does have charms of its own, especially a series of beautiful beaches.  Today's shore excursion presents a quick panoramic tour of several parts of this city on the Atlantic.  We begin with a drive from the pier, close to the center of the city, to the more southern suburbs, located on a fresh-water inland lake.  We stop at a small market and fishing village to visit the local shops and enjoy the cooler weather.  The guide on this tour speaks only Portuguese, but she is ably assisted by a young man from a small city close to Maceio, who speaks excellent English and provides a running translation of her remarks.

After a peaceful hour by the lake, we return to the congestion of the center of this city, not quite ready for the 21st century.  The state government  buildings and churches in the city center have been restored nicely, but stand amidst much that is falling down or never quite put up right.  This contrast of new and old is especially evident from the hilltop site that provides a panoramic view of the city and the harbor.  After spending some time in the heat of downtown we move on to the more affluent beach suburbs in the north, stopping for a 45-minute walk along the beautiful beach.  There are lots of high-rise hotels and condos (although there is a height limit in this part of the city) along the main street across from the beautiful white sands and sparkling green water of the beach.  The people aren't so pretty, but I'm hoping for better views when I get to Rio.  I do find a place to change American dollars into Brazilian Rials at a very good rate, so I will have some local currency for my arrival in Rio on Sunday.

Tomorrow is a sea day and the Neptune Ceremony, cancelled because of rain last week, has been rescheduled.  Fortunately, there has been no rain at all whenever we are in port.  The weather continues to be much better than  in the Caribbean--lower temperatures and humidity.  Now I am off to meet some new friends for drinks and then on to dinner (tonight I am looking forward to Rack of Lamb).

More later.

Monday, 24 February 2014

Today was a very busy day again after two quiet days at sea, as we have reached our second port in Brazil, the city of Recife ("city of reefs").

On Saturday, those passengers disembarking in Rio were invited to a Mariner's lunch, at which we received another blue and white Delft tile.  I have collected almost enough to create a backsplash for the kitchen--too bad the colors aren't right!  I won't bore you with more eating activities over the weekend, but I attended a culinary demonstration about making cinnamon rolls and a Philippino version of breakfast sweet rolls (ensaymadas)--lots of butter and cream.  On Sunday afternoon a large contingent of Indonesian crew members presented a program of song, dance, and comedy, with lots of colorful costumes.  The Showroom at Sea was filled to capacity with passengers wanting to show their support for the dining room staff.

Before going on to Monday's activities in Recife, I need to make one correction from the entry on Belem:  the rivers and bay at Belem make up the southernmost passage of the Amazon River basin into the Atlantic (not the northernmost).

Monday morning begins early as the rising sun floods light over the verandah; I hadn't closed the curtains all the way last night.  This city of several million stretches in a long line from north to south along the coastline, sheltered by a series of natural and man-made reefs.  An incredibly long series of skyscrapers and beaches march along the shore.  Unlike the unfinished state of Belem, the buildings here in Recife seem to be in much better shape, attesting to the more successful economic life of the city, originally based on the transport of sugar and fruit, but now much more diverse.  There is a good transportation that includes a light rail line as well as buses that reach every area of the city.

Today's shore excursion begins with a short drive to the northern suburb of Olinda, the site of the original establishment of the city of Recife.  It is now a Unesco World Heritage Site, and many of the old buildings have been conserved and restored.  The city rises along the slopes of a hill and the climate is more pleasant than in modern Recife--although I am pleased to report that the heat and humidity in Brazil are not as unpleasant as I expected.  After viewing the 17th century church and wandering the cobblestone streets, the tour takes us by bus from this northern suburb to the southern part of the city, Bio Viagem. 

This area is much newer and more prosperous, and the site of one of the best beaches in Brazil.  We have a brief opportunity to walk along the beach and sample the fine sand beneath our shoes.  A municipal law requires that all new buildings commission a contemporary artist to provide sculptures for the public (to break up the monotony of the parade of high rises).  After our beach walk, the tour returns to central Recife to visit both the Old City and the government center.  Sometimes called "the Venice of Brazil," the central area is an island connected to other parts of the city by a series of bridges.  Our guide, Baruch ("blessed" in Hebrew), takes us for a walk through the restored area of the city, with several monumental buildings from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, including the Government Palace, the Opera House, and the Museum of Sacred Art.  Although much has been restored and polished, there are still large areas of the city where homeless live on the streets.

Our last stop before returning to the ship is an old prison that has been converted into a crafts market.  Each cell is now a shop selling local artifacts.  Having seen several different parts of the city, we are ready to return to the Maasdam for a late lunch and a long nap.

Thursday, 20 February 2014

Today is a sea day as we head around the northern coast of Brazil and out into the Atlantic.  It is also the first day of rain--very convenient.  I spend a typical morning: breakfast in the Pinnacle Grill followed by a presentation of the highlights of Rio in the Showroom at Sea, and concluding with a presentation by the master chef on cooking Italian Food in the smaller Culinary Theatre.

In the afternoon I catch tour gruide Benjamin's presentation about the logistics of touring the various cities in Brazil that we will be visiting.  He has losts of good information, but is not the most dynamic speaker.  The outdoor "King Neptune Ceremony" in honor of crossing the Equator has been cancelled because of rain, so I watch "Papillon" on the TV in my stateroom and can verify the opening scenes were indeed filmed on the islands that we visited yesterday (at least the establishing long shots were).  I imagine the Neptune Ceremony will be rescheduled.  I enjoyed the one on last year's cruise and it promises to be another hoot.  We did, however, receive our certificates stating that we had crossed the Line during the night.

Dinner included a large slab of beautifully prepared Prime Rib and I started on wine bottle #5 (out of 7 in my package), a pleasant 2012 Argentinian Malbec which is quite refreshing.

Friday, 21 February 2014

I have been so frustated by my expensive and failed attempts to get pictures up on the blog, that I haven't paid much attention to other design aspects; so please forgive the unbroken blocks of text.

During the early hours of the morning, the Maasdam has been sailing upriver to the small port of Icoraci, a 45-minute drive from the city of Belem, the first really exotic port we are visiting.  The river becomes too shallow for the Maasdam to navigate any farther.  Although home to skyscrapers and over one million people, it is quite clear that Belem is a South American city, with its unique flavors and appeals.  The heat and humidity are high but not as bad as I expected, and the promised thunderstorms never materialize, so touring is actually rather pleasant (and, of course, the bus is freezingly air-conditioned). 

Before boarding the bus in Icoraci, however, we enjoy a 15-minute transfer by local boat rather than by ship's tenders.  These boats are larger and can convey passengers more quickly, and they begin to give a sense of being in a whole new world even before landing.  Everyone connected with the transport--especially the locals--are very accomodating and welcoming.  A friendly hello will bring a quick smiling response.  No one bothers us with persistent sales pitches (unlike on board), and no one charges for having his picture taken (as in Panama).  There are cool breezes on board the transfer vessel and we get a good view of where the bay ends and the estuary begins.  This body of water, whose name I will look up on my map later, is considered the northernmost tributary of the Amazon--so I can officially say I was in Amazonia.  From the banks of the river in the city itself, we can seen where two rivers, one dark and clear and one muddy and brown flow side by side for a mile or two before combining and moving out to sea.

Our guide gives us an overview of the history and economics of the area as we fight the traffic on the 45-minute drive into the center of Belem.  We pass through suburbs that are either put together in a hurried mishmash or are already falling down from overuse.  The poverty is quite evident, although everyone has a cellphone and the overhead wires attest to all the applicances available.  There seems to be little sense, however, of the need for any kind of planning or infrastructure.  As we drive into the city proper, we are greeted by rows of new (and uncompleted) high-rise condos and apartment buildings.  It's probably the climate and the quality of building materials that make things seem to be collapsing before even being built.

As we reach the "Old City," we are up against the shore of the river (about 1/2 mile wide and really a bay rather than a river--see above).  This part of town is home to the largest outdoor market in all of South America, but since this is a "Culture" tour we don't stop for shopping.  It is also starting to undergo some renovation and restoration that will appeal to a larger tourist base.  Our first stop in town is at the Botanic Garden and Bird Sanctuary.  This is a beautifully tended park with lovely covered platforms along the river.  There are many species of local fauna--including the most deeply red flamingos I have ever seen (from eating too much shrimp), white flamingos, white herons, ducks, iguanas, and other varieties of riparian birds.  The butterfly house (very popular in gardens all over the world right now), contains some wild plant life--including the largest water lilies I've ever seen), as well as many butterflies.  There are not many flowering plants, but everything is lush and densely green.

We next visit two art museums, both housed in historic buildings (one a former jail and one a former church), showcasing archaelogical and religious artifacts.  Unfortunately, all the explanations are in Portuguese (I'll have to do some research when I return home).  The collection of local minerals and gems is particularly impressive.  The museum has a good shop, but we have been warned that anything made of wood or plant products that we bring back to the ship will have to be put in a freezer for 24 hours to kill any bugs that might want to hitch a ride.  Some very beautiful contemporary pottery, but pieces too large and too expenseive to purchase while travelling.

We drive through several parts of town to witness the sharp contrasts between the moneyed few and the many poor--like everywhere else in this world today--although sometimes it seems as if we are passing the same places several times.  We then make the return drive to Icoraci and the local tender back to the ship in time for a very late lunch.

Nothing special for dinner except escargot, pate, and two lobster tails!

Wednesday

Although we are scheduled to arrive off the coast of Devil's Island (really Ile du Salut--but more about that later) at noon--the captain has sped through the night and we drop anchor just after 7am.  It is the best weather day since leaving Key West--low humidity and cool breezes (at least on board ship; the island has its own weather).  We are close enough to shore for me to take some decent photos from my veranda.  I'm not going on the island because this is the one port that requires a yellow fever vaccination, and on the advice of my physician, I have not had the shot (side effects can be worse than the disease).  On my cruise last year from Chile to Fort Lauderdale the same issue arose with one port in Ecuador and I elected to forego the shot on that trip too,
 
The former French penal colony occupies three small islands off the coast of Frnech Guiana.  The largest, Ile du Salut, housed the major component of the prison and today is the only part open to the public, with one small hotel and restaurant.  Ile du Diable is the smallest of the three and was used only for solitary confinement of the worst prisoners.  There are two showings of the film, "Papillion," on board today, so perhaps I'll check up on its acccuracy.  Those folks who ventured onto the island reported really intense heat and humidity, and the sighting of a few local monekys and tapirs.
 
Later in the afternoon, the waves picked up and some of the tenders had a difficult time maneuvering back to the ship.  A special surprise at dinner tonight has all the dining room personnel in old-fashioned striped prisoners' uniforms and the managers dessed as French policemen.  Some very interesting scenery!
 
Thursday is a day at sea as we cross the Equator and on Friday we reach our first port in Brazil, the Amazonian port city of Belem.
 
More from there later.

Today is a sea day so I wil try to catch up with my notes.  So. Back to Sunday in Trinidad and the visit to St Benedict's Monastery in the hills.  The original church is an historical landmark, but is no longer in use, having been replaced by a much larger structure,  The main attractions of the sprawling property are the views and the cooler than Port of Spain climate (kind of like Tucson compared to Phoenix).  The seminary has been closed down because they cannot find five live preisthood candidates in all of the Caribbean.  But because the Benedictines are noted for their hopitality, the guest house and retreat are busy all year.  At the conclusion of the guide's talk, we were treated to a taste of tea and various sweet breads in the guest house dining room.

The drive back to the city was highlighted by several police chases and blocked roads, but we still managed to return to the ship in time for a late lunch--at which I had the misfortune of the company of two gentlemen from Chile (part of the LGBT) group who complained incessantly about everyhting connected with the cruise and the shore excursions.  Another reminder why I choose to dine alone.

I broke my dine-alone rule again for dinner, but this time with much more pleasant results.  Patrick, a retired banker, who currently lives in the Chicago area, and I shared a table and a bottle of wine in the Pinnacle Grill, the ship's specialty steak and seafood restaurant.  Although the food in the Rotterdam Dining Room is always good, the steaks in the Pinnacle are quite extraordinary, and worth the extra charge (on which I get a discount for my 3-star Mariner membership).  Wonderful lobster bisque to begin with and tri-flavored creme brulee for dessert added to the pleasure of the evening.

Monday

Last night's sailing from Trinidad to Tobago takes 2.5 hours by ferry, but the Maasdam slowed down to 6 nms per mile so that we wouldn't arrive until morning.  Scarborough, the chief city, is much more tropical and slow than POS and therefore very pleasant to walk around.  The city tourist board offers a free walking tour with an excellent local guide, who is really knowledgeable in all aspects of Tobagan life, and was especially helpful as we go through the small but well-tended botanical gardens.  Monday is a quiet day in the street markets, but there are still enough stalls for browsing through the local items as he guides us back through the streets of town and down to the ship.

I am off to the third formal dinner tonight (Tuesday), so I'll continue my reporting tomorrow.

Saturday, 16 February

Another relaxing day at sea as we sail from the Lesser Antilles toward the coast of Venezuela, for tomorrow's landing in Trinidad (the southernmost of all the Caribbean Islands).  At this morning's tours presentation describing the first three ports in Brazil, I decide to add one more shore excursion to those I booked before sailing.  Since we will be anchoring near a small village about a 45-minute drive from Belem, I think a tour is a good idea, although HAL is providing free shuttle service into the city.

After a lazy Chinese lunch in the Lido--including light-colored hot & sour soup with shrimp (indeed very spicy)--I relax until dinner, which includes excellent aged beef carpaccio and lightly breaded chicken cacciatore (unfortunately the first dish which tasted overly salted--but I ate it anyway).  Since I napped in the afternoon I was able to stay awake for the 10pm show, starring the "Unexpected Boys," a quartet of not-unattractive young men from New Jersey, singing Broadway and Frankie Valle songs.

Sunday, 17 February

I awake just as we are sailing into Port-of-Spain, Trinidad (formally Trinidad and Tobago), harbor.  The city looks very industrial, with many multi-story commercial structures, but the surrounding hillsides provide welcome relief in varying shades of green.  I have room service breakfast in order to make my early morning shore excursion, but then face a long waiting line as the local authorities take their time in clearing the ship for entry.  The excursion begins with a drive through the city center, with everyone very busy getting ready for tonight's start of Carnivaal.  In Trinidad, Carnivaal
 is associated primarily with the celebration of the two-island 
nation's independence in 1962, rather than the spiritual associations of Rio's Carnivaal which is tied more closely to the pre-Easter calendar and thus on different dates.

The tour continues through more residential parts of POS, including one Strret where rich merchants built mansions in various European and Asian styles at the start of the 20th century.  We stop for a brief tour of the lovely Botanical Gardens, a tranquil spot in an otherwise crowded and hectic city, but we can still hear the drums of bands practicing for tonight's festivities.  After this stop we drive out of the city and up into the hills for a panoramic view of city and sea before continuing into the countryside for a visit to the hillside St Benedict's Convent.

But you will have to wait for the next posting for a continuation and the next day's adventures in Tobago.

Friday, 14 February

I stayed up very latre last night to watch from my veranda as the Maasdam set out to sea for the short overnight sail to Bonaire, the third of the Netherlands Antilles, saving the best for last.  Because I have an early shore excurion, I order room service breakfast before going to bed and it arrives promptly at 7am.  Good thing I set the alarm for 6:45

Although there is a long line of passengers waiting on the pier for this partiuclar tour, we are divided into three smaller groups, each having its own van, driver, and guide.  Our guide is a local-born young man who looks 15, but has celebrated birthday number 30.  Although he has attended universities in Curacao, the Netherlands, and Florida, it is not easy finding meaningful work locally.  Since his mother is American he can visit and work in the US without the rigamarole of extensive paperwork, and he plans to return to Miami as soon as the tourist season here is over.  His English is excellent, with a charming lilt brought over from the two other languages in which he is fluent, Dutch and the local indigenous languatge.

The tour is decribed as a drive around all parts of the island, with several stops for photos.  But it is significantly more interesting than I expectd, since  the landscape is quite varied, the seacoast is an amazing collection of different colored waters (based on water depth and temperature), and there is ample opporunity to see local wildlife, including colorful parakeets (larger than their American cousin), flying in the wild; parrots that change color to blend with their environments; sluggish iguanas; wild donkeys; and--pride of the island of Bonaire--one of the largest flamingo colonies in the Western Hemisphere.

Heading north on the east side of the island, we pass through severl suburbs of Kralendijk (the capital city), with houses ranging from $300,000 to $600,000.  There are scenic views along the road at every turn. When we reach the north end we turn eastward and inward past a lake with local flamingos (they turn from brown to pink around the age of 5 years from bacteria in their diet).  In the small town of Rincon, we visit a distillery that brews a local liquer and then head to one of the highest points on the island, for the panoramic views as well as the Christian monument at the top. 

The southern part of the island contains the salt pans--huge deposits of salt drained from water that has turned pink from (healthy) bacteria.  The contrast of blue-green ocean, pink water, and bright white salt stretching for miles is amazing.  We also visit some restored slave "houses" that were used for the original workers.  Back in Kralendijk, I return to the Maasdam for lunch and then go ashore again to explore the small downtown and the few craft shops.

Tomorrow is a sea day and I plan to do nothing at all!

Thursday

I set a wake-up call for 7am so I can watch the Pontoon Bridge across the harbort swing open for the passage of the Maasdam to its berth just past the much higher Queen Juliana Bridge in Willemstad, Curacoa.  But alas, I hit the snooze button and fall back to sleep until we are firmly docked at 8am.  Breakfast in the Pinnacle is excellent French Toast--with real maple syrup--and smoked bacon.  Then it's down the gangway for a morning walk through the city.

Willemstad is much more interesting than Oranjestad in Aruba.  Architecture has been beautiflly restored to Dutch-influenced originasl and aren't overwhelmed by signs for flip-flops and boogie boards,  There are, of course, the usual malls attached to the hotles, but at least these are tasteful--and I spend 45 minutes in Starbucks using their free wifi.

I return to the ship for lunch but go out again in the late afternoon, when the temperatures are lower, to watch the town lights come on and the other two cruise ships set sail.  We don't leave until midnight, so lots of people are planning to enjoy whatever nightlife Curacao has to offer.  There is a bright full moon as I head back to the ship for dinner.  Everyone shimmies to the Lido Deck at 9:30 for a pool party with lots of refreshments (free food; pay for drinks), band music with a singer who is a Chris Colfer (from Glee) clone, and crazy dancing.  Some of us choose just to be spectators.  Since I missed our entrace into the Willemstad harbor this morning I decide to stay up until midnight and watch from my veranda as the Maasdam sails out through the harbor, the pontoon bridge, and into the dark night.  Tomorrow is an early morning with a shore excursion in Bonaire, the third of the Netherlands Antilles, so I order room service breakfast before I turn in for the night.

So far, smooth sailing and sunny skies.  More later.

Tuesday

Today is a quiet day at sea as we head from the Caymans to the Netherlands Antilles, or ABC's:  Aruba, Bonaire, and Curaçao, with a full day on each of the islands.  My main activity today is the culinary demonstration at 1pm:  salmon and chocolate-almond creeps for Valentine's Day dinner.  The effervescent hostess provides running commentary as head chef Raj prepares the food (no samples today).  When I return to my suite I find the laundry I sent out yesterday, perfectly pressed and folded as I requested.

On my pre-dinner evening walk around the ship, I run into Patrick, another LGBT passenger, a retired banker from Chicago, who is also traveling by himself (that makes three solo sailors so far).  We chat over drinks in the Crow's Nest and make plans to dine in the Pinnacle Grill on a later night.  Dinner is prosciutto and cantaloupe over arugula, drizzled with balsamic vinegar (I think I shall have imbibed a quart before the cruise ends), with perfect-tasting melon; seasonal greens and garnishes (radishes, green peppers, etc), with low-fat lemon dressing; tuna fillet served over a salad of arugula and bell peppers (lots of healthy greens tonight).  The tuna is tasty but not prepared rare (for health reasons) so it doesn't quite match up to the quality of other main dishes; dessert is chocolate chip ice cream.

Wednesday

I enjoy another leisurely breakfast in the Pinnacle, since we don't reach Aruba until 1pm.  As we sail along the south coast toward the harbor I can see the glaringly pristine white sand beaches, the brightest I have ever seen, even from a distance.  The beaches are Aruba's chief attraction; the main town, Oranjestad, is mostly modern shopping malls dressed up to look like old Dutch architecture.  It's fun to walk around, especially away from the waterfront, where the crowds are thinner and the breezes cooler.

I return to the Maasdam with no purchases (actually things were easy to resist at the prices on offer), and as I'm dressing for dinner discover there is no COLD water (if there is a problem it's usually the hot water).  But a call to the concierge gets that fixed pretty quickly.  At dinner I am joined by David, a real estate wheeler dealer from Chicago, who does a great deal of traveling alone.  Although he usually eats at a large table, the other guests were all off ship this evening (we don't sail until midnight).  It was nice to have company for the meal--but I wouldn't want to do it every night.  David is trying to arrange for some more LGBT meetings as we go along to Rio.

Tomorrow morning we dock in Curaçao and I will write more from there.

Sunday

Today's day at sea provides a welcome rest after the hectic days (only 2) of arrival, unpacking, and visiting old haunts in Key West.  I enjoy a late continental breakfast in the Neptune Suites Lounge and then head for the captain and crew reception for suite guests.  Crew members very friendly and most, including the captain, are relatively young.  Free champagne and hors d'ouerves kind of set the tone for the day.

Dinner is first formal night and although I brought only sport coats and ties (and left my tuxedo at home), I looked remarkably well set-up with my red carnation flower (calling Oscar Wilde!), another suites perk.  Of course I have to have the concierge, a young woman from the Philippines, put it on for me after I stick my fingers several times with the pin.

Dinner is chilled shrimp cocktail, followed by an interesting salad of arugula and frisée topped with pear and mandarin orange slices.  Main course presents a dilemma of Beef Wellington and Rack of Lamb (two of my favorites).  I go with the lamb, hoping that the Wellington will return to the menu later in the cruise.  A chocolate soufflé with dark chocolate sauce rounds things out very nicely.

Since I met two of the entertainers on shore in Key West, I felt compelled to stay up for the 10pm show, "Bob Mackie on Broadway."  Costumes were great and the six singers (4 men, 2 women) all have good voices.  But the acoustics were not well balanced and there was little vocal subtlety to the performances.

Monday

Maasdam arrives George Town, Grand Cayman, at 7am.  8am breakfast in Pinnacle: traditional eggs Benedict and fruit plate (and the usual coffee, orange juice, and Danish).  Then for the best Neptune Suites perk (besides everything else), I just walk to the tender deck and boad the first boat to shore--no waiting in line for tickets, no waiting in line to board the tenders.  Having been here in early May of last year, I have no compelling agenda for sightseeing or shopping.  On my last visit, I enjoyed a shore excursion to the lovely Queen Elizabeth Botanical Gardens and the Pedro James Castle (sic), a still-occupied colonial estate.  Today I wander the streets of the small downtown and visit some shops (all selling very expensive merchandise) along the shore.  The best thing about Grand Cayman is that free Wifi is available almost everywhere (take that Holland America!).

After returning to the ship for lunch I enjoy a quiet afternoon.  The veranda provides a cooling breeze and the view of five other cruise ships anchored off the harbor.   I prepare my first list of laundry to go out (another free perk) and dress for dinner at 7:45pm.  Tonight's highlights include fresh tomato and Buffalo mozzarella drizzled with basil and balsamic vinegar, followed by a nicely prepared Caesar salad and sliced flank steak served over cheese polenta cake with French green beans and shallots in another balsamic reduction.  Tonight's wine is a French Pinot Noir and dessert is vanilla ice cream with chocolate sauce (forgoing the more elaborate desserts on offer). Chatted briefly with David from the LGBT group as he headed to his large table and the Dutch folk at the table next to mine.

I am presently in the Showroom at Sea waiting for tonight's performer--an old-time belter from Broadway.

Here I am on day 3 of the cruise, sailing toward the Cayman Islands, and already four days behind on the blog.  HAL has contracted with a new internet provider that is even sloooooower than the old one, so I don't know if I'll be able to do much witgh posting photographs; so everyone will have to wait for the thousands I will post when I return home.

So far all is good.  Delta flight from Tucson to Fort Lauderdale was delayed for 45 minutes due to failure of bolt on hydraulic brakes, but all was repaired and because of really pushy tailwinds we were able to make up most of the time and arrived only 15 minutes late. The flight to Fort Lauderdale left and arrived on time, with my luggage!  Private car was arranged to take me to Westin Hotel for overnight (of course, all this has to be paid for).  Flopped into bed as soon as I reached the room.

Friday 7 February 2014

Room service breakfast (very reasonably priced) and then an 11am shuttle bus for the 20-minute drive to Port Everglades and the ship.  The really good news is that about two hours before boarding I received an email from my extraordinary HAL cruise consultant, Crystal, offering me an upgrade to a Neptune Suite on the concierge level (Deck 10).  The stateroom is 625 square feet (about 2.5 times the regular stateroom), with a balcony twice as large as typical ones.  Lots of special perks and services too, that I will describe as the days pass.

Once settled on board I visited the special concierge lounge for free champagne (there's a full bottle in my suite also) and goodies to snack on.  After the usual ritual of locating my table in the dining room, I met a recently-married gay couple (even older than I am) from St Lake City.  I hope to make more contact as we sail for the next 3 weeks.  They, like many others, arson the whole 46-day cruise back to Fort Lauderdale.

After the required life boat safety drill and sail away party at 5pm (although we didn't actually sail until 6), I had a bratwurst and salad snack toehold me over til dinner (you will note that I didn't have lunch).  A short nap before dinner and I was ready forth emetine rituals in the dining room.  My servers seem very nice and extremely efficient.  Dinner was tuna & salmon tartare w/creme fraiche; button mushroom and baby spinach salad w/bacon,egg balsamic vinaigrette; grilled trout fillet over pasta w/ fresh tomato and Olive oil (just as I used to make at home in Richmond).  And my favorite Burgundy Cherry ice cream for dessert.

Hello Again

Greetings from Key West.  The Maasdam left Ft Lauderdale last night and arrived here this morning.  I have been busy visiting old haunts and getting used to high humidity.  I will be back later with more details and, hopefully, photos too.

Cruise News Update

I haven't set sail yet--not until next Friday--but want to let you know that I have received a Holland America upgrade to a Veranda Suite on the ms Maasdam.  The stateroom is the same size as the ocean view I booked, but HAL now calls all of its veranda staterooms "suites"--the wonders of relabeling.

I am, in fact, "on the road," rather than "at sea."  My partner, Will, has surprised me with a last-minute five-day trip to Las Vegas (in honor of my birthday last week) and I am writing this blog entry from our room on the 25th floor of the Bellagio Hotel.  I have stayed at eight different LV hotels over the years and while all have been quite comfortable, the Bellagio has the largest and most luxurious rooms.  We are doing all the usual LV activities:  lots of shopping (browsing really) at the many upscale malls attached to the different hotels and the Premium Outlets Mall, northwest of downtown; dining at fine restaurants (AquaKnox at the Venetian and Wolfgang Puck's casual Italian at City Center); viewing Cirque de Soleil's Zumanity (which came free with our package deal on Southwest Airlines); people-watching everywhere; comparing the extravagant architecture and design at each new hotel; and, of course, losing my allocated $30. at Video Poker.

We fly home to Tucson tomorrow afternoon and I then turn my attention to final preparations for the big trip to South America.

(I have added some photos and reported this blog entry)

Cucina & Pizzaria at Crystals Mall

Chinese New Year Decoration at the Bellagio

Crystals Mall Designed by Daniel Libeskind

Crystals Mall Exterior on the Strip