Monday, 24 February 2014

Today was a very busy day again after two quiet days at sea, as we have reached our second port in Brazil, the city of Recife ("city of reefs").

On Saturday, those passengers disembarking in Rio were invited to a Mariner's lunch, at which we received another blue and white Delft tile.  I have collected almost enough to create a backsplash for the kitchen--too bad the colors aren't right!  I won't bore you with more eating activities over the weekend, but I attended a culinary demonstration about making cinnamon rolls and a Philippino version of breakfast sweet rolls (ensaymadas)--lots of butter and cream.  On Sunday afternoon a large contingent of Indonesian crew members presented a program of song, dance, and comedy, with lots of colorful costumes.  The Showroom at Sea was filled to capacity with passengers wanting to show their support for the dining room staff.

Before going on to Monday's activities in Recife, I need to make one correction from the entry on Belem:  the rivers and bay at Belem make up the southernmost passage of the Amazon River basin into the Atlantic (not the northernmost).

Monday morning begins early as the rising sun floods light over the verandah; I hadn't closed the curtains all the way last night.  This city of several million stretches in a long line from north to south along the coastline, sheltered by a series of natural and man-made reefs.  An incredibly long series of skyscrapers and beaches march along the shore.  Unlike the unfinished state of Belem, the buildings here in Recife seem to be in much better shape, attesting to the more successful economic life of the city, originally based on the transport of sugar and fruit, but now much more diverse.  There is a good transportation that includes a light rail line as well as buses that reach every area of the city.

Today's shore excursion begins with a short drive to the northern suburb of Olinda, the site of the original establishment of the city of Recife.  It is now a Unesco World Heritage Site, and many of the old buildings have been conserved and restored.  The city rises along the slopes of a hill and the climate is more pleasant than in modern Recife--although I am pleased to report that the heat and humidity in Brazil are not as unpleasant as I expected.  After viewing the 17th century church and wandering the cobblestone streets, the tour takes us by bus from this northern suburb to the southern part of the city, Bio Viagem. 

This area is much newer and more prosperous, and the site of one of the best beaches in Brazil.  We have a brief opportunity to walk along the beach and sample the fine sand beneath our shoes.  A municipal law requires that all new buildings commission a contemporary artist to provide sculptures for the public (to break up the monotony of the parade of high rises).  After our beach walk, the tour returns to central Recife to visit both the Old City and the government center.  Sometimes called "the Venice of Brazil," the central area is an island connected to other parts of the city by a series of bridges.  Our guide, Baruch ("blessed" in Hebrew), takes us for a walk through the restored area of the city, with several monumental buildings from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, including the Government Palace, the Opera House, and the Museum of Sacred Art.  Although much has been restored and polished, there are still large areas of the city where homeless live on the streets.

Our last stop before returning to the ship is an old prison that has been converted into a crafts market.  Each cell is now a shop selling local artifacts.  Having seen several different parts of the city, we are ready to return to the Maasdam for a late lunch and a long nap.