Palma de Mallorca, Balearic Islands, Spain
Monday, 20 November 2017

I have finally caught up with the last full day of the cruise as we sail into the wide harbor of Palma de Mallorca on a bright Monday morning.  The immense "Cathedral of the Sea," as it is called, can be seen from a distance quite far from the shore.  It's a long walk up several flights of outdoor stone steps to reach the front facade, and an even farther walk around the corner to reach the ticket office and entrance.

Cathedral Garden
(modelled on Seville's Alcazar)

The exuberant interior is well worth the climb and the expense.  Although the overall structure is decidedly Catalan baroque, the interior decoration is modern (early 20th-century) and flamboyant, including a high altar designed and decorated by Gaudi and a side chapel designed by his most prominent follower, Barcelo.

Gaudi Altar

Barcelo Chapel

Other parts of the cathedral are decorated in more traditional fashion, including the largest rose window in southern Europe:

Our visit to the cathedral, the highlight of Palma, comes when we set out on our own after a long morning tour that takes us outside the city to visit Bellaver Castle (outside visit only) for views over the city and harbor, an artificial pearl factory (a shopping stop, really, that was just a waste of time), and an historic country home, still partly occupied by its long-time resident family.

Bellaver Castle, atop a hill just outside the city, is the only fully remaining circular castle in Europe.  Our stop this morning does not include a visit inside, but I was able to tour inside on my previous visit this past spring (tap the link to 9 April 2017, at the bottom of the page, to see a photo).  The symmetrical circular galleries that line the two floors of the castle provide ample space for the weapons needed to protect the castle from invaders.  And the views from the very top level provide immense perspective.  But today we must be satisfied with the views, still very nice, from outside the castle.

We then enjoy/endure a 45-minute bus ride into the surrounding countryside, pleasant rural agricultural areas interspersed with large factories and office centers, before reaching the "Pearl Museum." The guided visit to watch bored workers packing artificial pearls into small gift boxes takes about five minutes; afterward, the group is led into an immense showroom and given 45 minutes to wander through long aisles with case after case of jewelry and watches at a variety of prices.  Not interested in the sales pitches, Anita, Will, and I head straight to the cafe area we enjoy cappuccinos that are both the tastiest (including the ones fashioned by the baristas on the Marina) and at 1 euro 10 cents--$1.20--the cheapest (except for the free ones on board the Marina) of the whole two-week cruise!

After this visit--actually the first shore excursion on the whole trip that was less than satisfactory--we head for the final, and finally most interesting, part of the tour:  a visit to the private estate of El Calderers, in the farming village of Sant Joan (Catalan for St John).   The main building dates from 1750 and our guide provides a wealth of detail as she takes us through all of the public rooms on the first level, several private bedrooms on the second level, and parts of the working granary and brewery.

We also have a chance to visit the gardens and see some of the lovely animals in their corrals and nearby fields.

As the Sheep Turn Their "Backs" to the Camera

Gray Pig Used for Prized Local Sausage

Back on board the Marina we celebrate Will's birthday with glasses of champagne, an excellent dinner, and a birthday cake (hidden by the wine glass) and birthday serenade by the serving staff.  

And one last view of the cathedral as pull away from the port at 6pm--a great way to end the last day of a wonderful cruise.

Malta, Day 2, Part 2
Saturday, 18 November 2017

We are standing outside the main gate to the city of Mdina, waiting for our guide to take us through the walls and into the city, the highlight of today's shore excursion.  This is my third visit to Mdina, one of those places--Olympia in Greece is another--of which I never grow tired and that reveal nuances of atmosphere at each re-visit.  The quiet streets of this city are evocative of another time and place; a slow walk through them constantly reveals new perspectives and new reflections.

Mdina, The Silent City

Outside the Main Mdina City Gateway

Outside the City Walls = Rabat

Inside the City Walls = Mdina

Just as in Valletta, in Mdina the Cathedral is the most important building for visitors to see.  Unlike the austere facade of the Co-Cathedral in Valletta, the exterior here approaches the exuberance of the interior decoration.

Sterling Silver Cellini Altarpiece

Local Street Scenes in Mdina:

I haven't said much about dining on the Marina, but we have eaten quite well.  Because Anita was with us we ate more than we usually do in the Grand Dining Room where the highlight was a superb herb-crusted rack of lamb.  We especially enjoyed our meals at the four specialty restaurants, eating twice at tow of them, Red Ginger and Toscana.  We even made it to High Tea one afternoon, and enjoyed many mid-morning specialty coffees prepared by the excellent barista, Mario (who doubled as the olive oil sommelier in Toscana--don't ask!).  And, of course, our Butler, Manny, served hot breakfast in our suite on the mornings on which we had early shore excursions.

Malta, Day 2, Part 1
Saturday, 18 November 2017

This morning we are ready for our shore excursion to the western side of Malta, visiting the Dingli Cliffs, the city of Rabat, and the former capital, Mdina, known as "The Quiet City," since no motor vehicles except those belonging to residents, are allowed within the walls.

The Dingli Cliffs stand at the highest point on Malta (not really very high at all, about 300 meters) and cascade down to the sea.  The sides of the cliffs are awash in lovely greens and have been cultivated with trees and small vegetable gardens.  Given its position, the site is also home to a radar outpost used by the Allies in WWII and by NATO in our own times.

The Dingli Cliffs:

Just inland from the cliffs sits the city of Rabat, which we are visiting to see the Christian catacombs beautifully excavated and preserved, with an excellent small museum providing background and history.  We enter one deep maze of underground tunnels through a long and steep stone staircase.  Our guide, who has started an historical introduction in the museum, continues her presentation underground.  Afterward, we are free to wander through the well-lit pathways connecting various grave sites.

Exhibit in the Above-Ground Museum

Diagram of Catacombs


Inside the Catacombs:

The short walk to and from the tour bus to the catacombs takes us through a residential part of Rabat, with houses exhibiting various shades of sandstone and limestone, depending on their exposure to sea and sun.  The newest are bright white, but the older ones age to a mellow beige and even a dark brown, the effect of the wind-blown sand etching the facades of the buildings.

Colorful Window Treatment Against Sandstone Facade

Imitation Gaudi Decoration?

Doorway Plaque

The Streets of Rabat:

The eastern edge of Rabat is the demarcation line for the medieval city of Mdina, former capital and current tourist favorite.  Buses and cars of visitors are allowed only in the Rabat area and must park outside the walls of Mdina itself.

I shall park here, also, and bring you into Mdina in the next blog entry.