Sunday, 7 April 2024

Another Sea Day on ms Sirena

We left the Cape Verde Islands at 8pm last night, just after a spectacular sunset and while we were still enjoying dinner in the Grand Dining Room. Today promises to be a very busy day on board Sirena, so I will have much to report in the next blog. But for now I return to Friday at sea and Saturday in Porto Grande, the city of Mindelo, and exploration of the dramatic island landscape of Sao Vincenze.

Friday, 5 April 2024

Still Crossing the Atlantic

Land is finally on the horizon as we prepare to arrive in Cape Verde tomorrow at noon. We haven't yet reached Europe because the islands are considered part of Africa and lie off the coast of Mali and Mauritius.  We are supposed to be docked in Porto Grande at 11am, but strong winds have slowed us down a bit so we will arrive one hour late. In spite of the winds, it is still very smooth and pleasant sailing and the shining sun hasn't failed us for a single day. 

This Friday is another busy sea day. After breakfast in the Grand Dining Room, I attend a "Beginner Bridge Lesson" led by David, the resident expert. He is a good instructor and I understand the basic principles of counting card points and bidding. There are eight participants making for a perfect two tables. I soon figure out, however, that some of the players are not really beginners. We play a contract game--I am dealt a terrible hand, of course. But I decide there is too much counting and too much trying to remember numbers of cards to make the game enjoyable for this "language person." So this will be my first and last lesson. I hope my friends Mary Ann and Barbara will forgive me.

At the conclusion of the lesson, all the passengers descend to the Sirena Lounge for a more interesting presentation of the history of "Cape Verde & the Portuguese," presented by guest speaker Dr. Gulliver (what an appropriate name for a traveling lecturer). Will joins me for this presentation, which rounds out the morning

We have another lunch in the Waves Cafe, enjoying the fresh air, sunshine, and Heineken.

We skip the film showing of The Boys in the Boat and another high tea.  At 5:45 I attend the by-special-invitation-only cocktail reception for frequent Oceania cruisers (Will is invited to one on Sunday). There are lots of free cocktails and Champagne circulating the room, along with hot and cold finger food. Fine French Champagne is our drink of choice on this cruise since we had a free full bottle awaiting us when we boarded, as well as free supplies at every meal. During the reception the Captain and his Assistant present awards to folks who have sailed on Oceania many times--I mean really many--some close to 2,000 days at sea. I am at a piddling 72 days! Awards are also presented to five crew members who have served on Oceania for many years, the longest stint being a member of the sommelier team who has been with the company for 25 years. There is entertainment and dancing as well.

At 7:30 we have our second dinner in the Tuscan Grill, with more Champagne. Will starts with another "colossal" shrimp cocktail and I have escargot in a warm cream sauce. 

Will has a mixed salad and I have a Caesar salad prepared table-side. Will's main course is surf and turn, a filet mignon and Maine lobster tail, with mashed potatoes. I repeat the NY Strip I had previously (it is that good!), with creamy polenta. I have tramisu and will enjoys creme brûlée for dessert.

After all that we are very ready to settle in for the night.

Saturday, 6 April 2024

Porto Grande, Mindelo, Sao Vincente, Cape Verde Islands

We spend a quiet morning on Sirena as she sails the last nautical miles into Porto Grande, where we dock at noon. The uninhabited islands were first discovered by the Portuguese in 1642, but San Vincente was not really developed until the 19th century because of extremely arid conditions--mostly desert with very little rain. Today Cape Verde is an independent nation with a population mostly of African origins, with a mixing of West Europeans. There is actually a very large diaspora population or Cape Verdeans in New England, primarily in coastal fishing towns.

Today, Will and I are taking separate shore excursions. Will's tour, "Highlights of Cape Verde," is an hour shorter than my tour, "Spectacular San Vincente," and doesn't involve extensive walking. Although both tours visit a number of the same places, my tour begins with a 90-minute walk through Mindelo city, which would be very difficult for Will.

Sailing into Porto Grande, Cape Verde

Another "Big-Ass" Rock--This Time Just Off the Coast of San Vincente.
Can You See the Long Staircase Going Up to the Lighthouse from the Keeper's Residence?

It's a very short drive in a mini-bus from the ship to Mindelo, where my tour first stops at a small beach-front fishing center, from where we have a fine view of Sirena, topped by the low layer of white cloud that surrounds Sao Vincente all afternoon.

I can easily see another part of the town and coast from where the fisherman work . . . 

. . . as well as fisherman cutting and cleaning the new catch of the day.

Across the street from the fishermen stands a row of Colonial houses and shops, with their typical Cape Verdean balconies.

The picture above is taken from the entrance to the Belem Tower, site of the Museum of the Sea.

The building is a miniature reproduction of the early Renaissance tower in Belem, a seaside suburb of Lisbon. There are excellent views from the top floors, but the winding staircase to the second level is enough for me to enjoy this view:

The museum contains exhibits from Cape Verde's relationship with the sea, including many local shipwrecks that yielded interesting treasures, such as the pocket watch below:

The tour visits several local markets, including the fish market and the crafts market at Praça Estrela, both pictured below:

Local Fabrics on Display at the Crafts Market

Even more interesting than the crafts market is the Quintal des Artes, a cooperative run by local artists and studios:

The tour of central Mindelo continues as our guide takes the group to various squares and sights that represent the best of the city. Mindelo is a mostly clean and newly-built area, but there are vestiges of its colonial past.

Another Historic Market

Mural of the Island's Most Popular Singer, Cesária Évora

A Refreshment Kiosk in Praça Nova

It is now time to re-board the mini bus for the long and winding bumpy road up to the highest point on the island, the top of Monte Verde, a long dormant volcano. The first part of the road is a smooth new highway, but about one-quarter the way the road changes to a narrow, two-way, curving stretch, hand-paved with very bumpy lava stones. When we reach the top we have a brief commanding view of the island before the low clouds start settling in. Then it's a slightly faster ride down the lava-stone road.

View from the Bus Driver's Seat

When we reach the well-paved highway, we head east instead of west back to Mindelo. We are driving to a series of beaches along the unspoiled coastline of Baia das Gatas.

Fellow Passengers from Sirena Walk on the Beach

While we are stopped beside the beach, our excellent tour guide, Suzi, demonstrates some local dances with the tour guide from the mini-bus following ours.

We have one more stop after the beaches. We head south to the village of Calhau. We change from well-paved highway, to lava-stone road, to un-paved dirt track to get to the easternmost village on the island--from where we have an excellent view of neighboring islands in the Cape Verde archipelago. We also have a short visit to a turtle refuge where rescued animals are given care and then returned to the sea. But it's Saturday and there is no one to show us around. Our guide explains that the turtles we see in the rehabilitation tanks must be returned to the sea without any human touch, which would destroy their sense of place and direction.

Tour Buses Parked in Calhau

View of Lava Rocks, Surf, and Santa Lucia Island in Upper Left Corner

Fishing Boats in Calhau

From this westernmost point of San Vincente Island, the mini-bus takes a direct but very bumpy road back to Mindelo and the Sirena. Will arrives from his later-starting, shorter tour soon after I do. He has visited all the places I have, except Calhau. And he enjoyed a drive-through tour of Mindelo instead of the 90-minute walk.

This has been a very long blog so I will leave Saturday evening and all-day Sunday (with lots going on), for the next entry.