Wednesday at Sea
Wednesday was a sea day. The weather turned cooler and my clothes finally matched the climate. I had Eggs Benedict made to order in the Lido Buffet this morning and they were as good as in the Rembrandt Dining Room. The travel guide gave a talk on Bilbao and that was about it for a taxing day.
Wednesday evening brought TWO catastrophes! First, the waistband on my tuxedo pants must have expanded since Sunday, because I know I haven’t lost any weight. But as I was dressing I just couldn’t keep the pants up! Called the room steward who brought several large safety pins, but the pants fabric is so thick the pins wouldn’t hold. Finally wore a very high tight belt around the waist (like one of Martin Short’s characters)—it had to be tight because there were no pants loops to hold it on—then my tuxedo vest and jacket thankfully covered the belt nicely and all was well.
Second catastrophe was more serious—there were three equally beckoning entrees for dinner and I was torn by the decision-making: 1. traditional Beef Wellington, with pate and pastry wrapping; 2. crumb-crusted rack of lamb with mint pesto on the side; 3. sugar-charred Alaska salmon.
Holland America’s traditional “dessert extravaganza” was presented on the Lido Deck at 10:30 pm, beginning with a parade of chefs accompanied by cheers from the passengers. I had already eaten dessert with dinner (a fine flourless chocolate decadence cake with raspberry coulis), because I knew I didn’t want to fight the hordes as they descended on the display tables. But I did take pictures of some of the fancier creations.
Wednesday was a sea day. The weather turned cooler and my clothes finally matched the climate. I had Eggs Benedict made to order in the Lido Buffet this morning and they were as good as in the Rembrandt Dining Room. The travel guide gave a talk on Bilbao and that was about it for a taxing day.
Wednesday evening brought TWO catastrophes! First, the waistband on my tuxedo pants must have expanded since Sunday, because I know I haven’t lost any weight. But as I was dressing I just couldn’t keep the pants up! Called the room steward who brought several large safety pins, but the pants fabric is so thick the pins wouldn’t hold. Finally wore a very high tight belt around the waist (like one of Martin Short’s characters)—it had to be tight because there were no pants loops to hold it on—then my tuxedo vest and jacket thankfully covered the belt nicely and all was well.
Second catastrophe was more serious—there were three equally beckoning entrees for dinner and I was torn by the decision-making: 1. traditional Beef Wellington, with pate and pastry wrapping; 2. crumb-crusted rack of lamb with mint pesto on the side; 3. sugar-charred Alaska salmon.
Holland America’s traditional “dessert extravaganza” was presented on the Lido Deck at 10:30 pm, beginning with a parade of chefs accompanied by cheers from the passengers. I had already eaten dessert with dinner (a fine flourless chocolate decadence cake with raspberry coulis), because I knew I didn’t want to fight the hordes as they descended on the display tables. But I did take pictures of some of the fancier creations.
And for the sake of truth-telling, I had the salmon for dinner (it’s a preparation I often make at home). Instead of starting a new bottle of wine, I had a glass of champagne in honor of my pants staying up.
Thursday Morning
The Eurodam docked in the estuary of Bilbao, about a 30 minute drive from the city center. Holland America provided free shuttle buses for those who were touring independently, but I had signed up for an excursion—and I was happy that I did.
The coach takes us into Bilbao while the guide (again, very impressive performance) talks about history and current politics, as well as the Basque economy. As we enter the city he provides a running commentary as we pass each major work of contemporary architecture—and there is a great deal more than just the Guggenheim—rattling off the names and nationalities of architects and dates of construction. In addition to the completed buildings, a large number of projects are in various states of completion.
We stop in the old town (Casco Viejo) for a one-hour walking tour that covers more ground than I had expected. Bilbao was (and apparently still is) part of a secondary pilgrim route to Santiago de Compostela; the main route goes through Burgos. You can identify today’s pilgrims by the large seashell that hangs from their backpacks or belts.
The coach does a circuit of both sides of the river as we drive to the Guggenheim, where we have two hours to visit: a one-hour guided tour and one hour on our own. Of course the building itself exceeds all expectations and is difficult to capture in pictures. What is especially remarkable is the way Gehry’s late 20th-century pure architectural forms are molded into the fabric of the city’s historical ambience, including a vehicular bridge built in the 1960’s which runs through one edge of the building.
As much as the building impresses, however, even more the large and very large and very very large works of art show to magnificent advantage. The museum has only two permanent works installed, instead focusing on a series of temporary displays by the most “now” artists. Some of the highlights currently on view:
Richard Serra’s magnificent and monumental “The Matter of Time” (2005) completely fills the large exhibition space (indeed, the largest open exhibition space in any museum anywhere) with five larger-than-life steel and copper constructions that can be walked through.
Thursday Morning
The Eurodam docked in the estuary of Bilbao, about a 30 minute drive from the city center. Holland America provided free shuttle buses for those who were touring independently, but I had signed up for an excursion—and I was happy that I did.
The coach takes us into Bilbao while the guide (again, very impressive performance) talks about history and current politics, as well as the Basque economy. As we enter the city he provides a running commentary as we pass each major work of contemporary architecture—and there is a great deal more than just the Guggenheim—rattling off the names and nationalities of architects and dates of construction. In addition to the completed buildings, a large number of projects are in various states of completion.
We stop in the old town (Casco Viejo) for a one-hour walking tour that covers more ground than I had expected. Bilbao was (and apparently still is) part of a secondary pilgrim route to Santiago de Compostela; the main route goes through Burgos. You can identify today’s pilgrims by the large seashell that hangs from their backpacks or belts.
The coach does a circuit of both sides of the river as we drive to the Guggenheim, where we have two hours to visit: a one-hour guided tour and one hour on our own. Of course the building itself exceeds all expectations and is difficult to capture in pictures. What is especially remarkable is the way Gehry’s late 20th-century pure architectural forms are molded into the fabric of the city’s historical ambience, including a vehicular bridge built in the 1960’s which runs through one edge of the building.
As much as the building impresses, however, even more the large and very large and very very large works of art show to magnificent advantage. The museum has only two permanent works installed, instead focusing on a series of temporary displays by the most “now” artists. Some of the highlights currently on view:
Richard Serra’s magnificent and monumental “The Matter of Time” (2005) completely fills the large exhibition space (indeed, the largest open exhibition space in any museum anywhere) with five larger-than-life steel and copper constructions that can be walked through.
Cai Guo-Qiang’s “Reflection—a Gift from Iwaki” (2004) is the remains of a shipwrecked wooden longboat filled with and surrounded by immense piles of broken white pottery tableware (plates, cups, and serving dishes). Remarkably, part of the exhibition of this piece is the re-construction of the remains of the boat and the breaking of the pottery for each new installation.
Takasha Murakami’s video- and manga (comic book)-inspired work doesn’t move me, but is very popular as it incorporates the latest in electronic media. I admire the vibrant colors on the flat minimalist surfaces, but the works don’t touch me in any way.
I return to the ship at 2 pm thoroughly exhausted and exhilarated—at which point I will conclude this long blog, even though like Tristram Shandy I am falling behind the farther we sail.
Hope you are enjoying!
I return to the ship at 2 pm thoroughly exhausted and exhilarated—at which point I will conclude this long blog, even though like Tristram Shandy I am falling behind the farther we sail.
Hope you are enjoying!
__03.jpg)