Monday Morning
I enjoy a cooked-to-order breakfast in the Lido Buffett this morning and must add that the coffee service is excellent. Coffee is a trifle strong—but always very hot. And on this cruise, the staff comes around to refill coffee cups at regular intervals (much better than some other ships I have been on).
Monday Afternoon
It takes a little over two hours to sail up the Tagus Estuary, but all of the north bank’s attractions are lined up as we pass: the beach resorts of Cascais and Estoril, the outer suburbs with high-rises on the cliffs, and shops and restaurants along the shore, and the historic sights of Belem (see next paragraph). We pass under the 24th of April suspension bridge with a perfect view of Cristo Rei (Christ the King) at its southern end. The 362-foot high monument was built in 1959 to match the one in Rio (Christ the Redeemer). I am very glad I brought along binoculars. The ship docks in Lisbon at 2 pm, about two hours ahead of schedule, and passengers are allowed off at 2:30.
The pier is halfway between the center of Lisbon and the western section, Belem, site of several important attractions: The Monument to the Discoveries, The Belem Tower, and the Monastery of Jeronimos. There are easy train, bus, and tram connections in both directions (west to Belem and Cascais and east to the center of town). Since my time is limited, I will skip the Belem area (but I do have many pictures from my earlier visit in 1996; just ask).
I plan to ride the urban railway two stops to the city center. But before I can do that, I become unofficial tour guide at the railway ticket machine, explaining how to use it, what destinations to select and even how to find the train in the right direction (they run opposite to the normal traffic flow). It’s good to know I haven’t lost my travel know-how, even though it’s been a long while since my last time on the Continent, and most everything is written in Portuguese.
It’s a quick rail trip into town and then a short ride on the Metro to Rossio Square where I begin my walk through the lower city, or Baxia. Lisbon is built on a series of hills (cliffs actually) encircling three quarters of the city, with the Tagus River on the south. The shifts between the lower city and the surrounding upper areas create the need for elevadores in various spots. The oldest of these is an actual huge iron elevator (constructed by a disciple of Eifel) that starts at ground level and rises up 10 or 12 stories next to a business building, where you walk out onto a new street level (at the very top of the same building). The other elevadores are small trams that ride narrow rails up very steep hills (think San Francisco, only much narrower streets). These machines are part of the daily transport life of Lisboans, but they are also a great treat for tourists.
I’m using The Eyewitness Travel Series book, Top 10 Lisbon—a fine guide for short-time visitors. I follow the suggested walking tour (using public transportation whenever I can), “Baixa to Restauradores” (in case you have access to the guide):
• Praça do Comercio, the post-1755 earthquake square that looks out on the river and frames the city and hills surrounding it;
• Rua Augusta, the primary shopping street closed to automobile traffic and paved in the black-and-white mosaics that are ubiquitous throughout the city;
• the Eifel-Tower-like Elevador de Santa Justa (see above);
• and two interesting crafts shops (just looking).
I enjoy a cooked-to-order breakfast in the Lido Buffett this morning and must add that the coffee service is excellent. Coffee is a trifle strong—but always very hot. And on this cruise, the staff comes around to refill coffee cups at regular intervals (much better than some other ships I have been on).
Monday Afternoon
It takes a little over two hours to sail up the Tagus Estuary, but all of the north bank’s attractions are lined up as we pass: the beach resorts of Cascais and Estoril, the outer suburbs with high-rises on the cliffs, and shops and restaurants along the shore, and the historic sights of Belem (see next paragraph). We pass under the 24th of April suspension bridge with a perfect view of Cristo Rei (Christ the King) at its southern end. The 362-foot high monument was built in 1959 to match the one in Rio (Christ the Redeemer). I am very glad I brought along binoculars. The ship docks in Lisbon at 2 pm, about two hours ahead of schedule, and passengers are allowed off at 2:30.
The pier is halfway between the center of Lisbon and the western section, Belem, site of several important attractions: The Monument to the Discoveries, The Belem Tower, and the Monastery of Jeronimos. There are easy train, bus, and tram connections in both directions (west to Belem and Cascais and east to the center of town). Since my time is limited, I will skip the Belem area (but I do have many pictures from my earlier visit in 1996; just ask).
I plan to ride the urban railway two stops to the city center. But before I can do that, I become unofficial tour guide at the railway ticket machine, explaining how to use it, what destinations to select and even how to find the train in the right direction (they run opposite to the normal traffic flow). It’s good to know I haven’t lost my travel know-how, even though it’s been a long while since my last time on the Continent, and most everything is written in Portuguese.
It’s a quick rail trip into town and then a short ride on the Metro to Rossio Square where I begin my walk through the lower city, or Baxia. Lisbon is built on a series of hills (cliffs actually) encircling three quarters of the city, with the Tagus River on the south. The shifts between the lower city and the surrounding upper areas create the need for elevadores in various spots. The oldest of these is an actual huge iron elevator (constructed by a disciple of Eifel) that starts at ground level and rises up 10 or 12 stories next to a business building, where you walk out onto a new street level (at the very top of the same building). The other elevadores are small trams that ride narrow rails up very steep hills (think San Francisco, only much narrower streets). These machines are part of the daily transport life of Lisboans, but they are also a great treat for tourists.
I’m using The Eyewitness Travel Series book, Top 10 Lisbon—a fine guide for short-time visitors. I follow the suggested walking tour (using public transportation whenever I can), “Baixa to Restauradores” (in case you have access to the guide):
• Praça do Comercio, the post-1755 earthquake square that looks out on the river and frames the city and hills surrounding it;
• Rua Augusta, the primary shopping street closed to automobile traffic and paved in the black-and-white mosaics that are ubiquitous throughout the city;
• the Eifel-Tower-like Elevador de Santa Justa (see above);
• and two interesting crafts shops (just looking).
I then hop the Metro for two stations (including one change of trains) to the north-most part of the Baxia, to catch the Elevador de Gloria (one of the tiny trams) to the Barrio Alto (Upper Town).
This area of the city was first constructed in the 16th century, but contains remnants from all the periods following (at least those that survived the earthquake, so inimitably rendered in Voltaire’s Candide). I follow only the second half of the suggested walking tour, concentrating on a long, narrow street of small apartment blocks, shops, restaurants, and bars, ending in the major commercial street of the district, Rua do Loreto, where I stop for a flaky pastry at a local bakery. There’s another elevador here, heading down to the harbor, but I choose to walk a few blocks to the Metro which will return me to the urban railway station and the train back to the ship.
I am still in the upper town and know that the Metro will be buried deeply here, but I am not quite prepared for the staircase followed by six long double-escalators (up and down, thank goodness), deeper than any Metro station I can remember in London or anywhere else. I return to the ship shortly before 7 pm, with just enough time to talk to Will on the phone and dress for dinner.
Monday Evening
I started a bottle of 2008 Blackstone Sauvignon Blanc to go along with dinner: prosciutto on garlic crostini; grilled romaine with vegetables (wonderful roasted eggplant); fettuccine with fresh tomato, basil, and grilled chicken; Burgundy Cherry ice cream for dessert (second time for that choice).
Looking forward to a full day in Lisbon tomorrow.
This area of the city was first constructed in the 16th century, but contains remnants from all the periods following (at least those that survived the earthquake, so inimitably rendered in Voltaire’s Candide). I follow only the second half of the suggested walking tour, concentrating on a long, narrow street of small apartment blocks, shops, restaurants, and bars, ending in the major commercial street of the district, Rua do Loreto, where I stop for a flaky pastry at a local bakery. There’s another elevador here, heading down to the harbor, but I choose to walk a few blocks to the Metro which will return me to the urban railway station and the train back to the ship.
I am still in the upper town and know that the Metro will be buried deeply here, but I am not quite prepared for the staircase followed by six long double-escalators (up and down, thank goodness), deeper than any Metro station I can remember in London or anywhere else. I return to the ship shortly before 7 pm, with just enough time to talk to Will on the phone and dress for dinner.
Monday Evening
I started a bottle of 2008 Blackstone Sauvignon Blanc to go along with dinner: prosciutto on garlic crostini; grilled romaine with vegetables (wonderful roasted eggplant); fettuccine with fresh tomato, basil, and grilled chicken; Burgundy Cherry ice cream for dessert (second time for that choice).
Looking forward to a full day in Lisbon tomorrow.
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