Tuesday, 12 May 2009 (2)

Monday Morning

I awoke early (6:30) to find the ship sailing silently backward for over an hour into Rotterdam Harbor, which is the official European home of Holland America, and the second largest port in the world. I take the shuttle from the ship to Central Station and catch the 9:28 train to Amsterdam. The train cars are double-decker and I sit downstairs for the 50 minute ride, not realizing that the “silent” section is upstairs: Europeans are even worse than Americans with their cell phones and loud conversations.

Instead of following my pre-planned walk in Amsterdam, I just wander and window-shop, including a stop at Concerto, a really amazing music store which I had somehow missed on all my previous visits to the city. The shop is located in a series of inter-connecting canal houses, with rickety stairways and narrow passages going from section to section. A wonderful shop, but it deserved more time than I had—gives me a reason to return to Amsterdam to shop.

I board a bus at Central Station and head for the eastern part of the city—I learned my lesson from walking too much in Le Havre and London—today I use local transportation all day (a 24-hour pass is only seven Euros = a little over $9.00). The eastern section is the former Jewish area of Amsterdam and the site of five historic synagogues (which I’ve seen on previous visits). But I head for the Entropot Dock, which is flanked by a row of 82 former maritime warehouses (1827-40) that have been restored as professional offices, apartments, and shops.

I walk by the entrance to the zoo and catch a tram to return to the central part of the city. I zigzag along narrow streets and canals under a sky that is almost as brightly blue as Tucson’s although the temperature is significantly cooler. I stop for a quick lunch in the food hall of Vrees & Droom department store and for dessert I indulge in the best (and chocolatiest) chocolate croissant I’ve ever eaten. I don’t have a picture, but I probably still have chocolate goo on my fingers 24 hours later.

Monday Afternoon

Since today is my final Euro day (Denmark still uses krone), I decide to shop out my remaining Euros, reserving enough for an extra gratuity for Anthony, the wine steward. (An automatic gratuity of $11.00 per day per passenger is divided among all the service staff so there is no need to tip unless someone has been particularly helpful).

SKIP THIS PARAGRAPH IF YOU DON’T LIKE BLOOD: After buying a nice gift for Will—my blog is everyone else’s gift—and some socks for me to finish the trip, I run to catch a tram back to Central Station, trip over my own feet and the lumpy pavement (no, my shoes are NOT untied), and land flat on my knees. Fortunately the brim of my Holland America cap protects my face and glasses from hitting the ground. Several people come over to help me up and to make sure I’m ok, but the only damage I can detect is scrapped knees under my jeans, a light abrasion on one palm and one very bloody fingertip; no harm to my clothes. I even make the next tram and have time to wash my hands before catching the train back to Rotterdam (this time in the upper “silent” compartment).

I’m sorry I don’t have more time to explore Rotterdam, because it certainly has changed in the past 12 years. Post-modern office towers and the largest public collection of outdoor sculpture in the Netherlands create a striking effect. The captain provides narration as we head back out the 45-mile port, going forwards this time instead of backward as this morning.

Monday Evening

Tonight’s Farewell Dinner was the last formal night. I gave up on the tuxedo, but wore my black sport jacket, blue striped shirt and black bow tie. Escargot again (serving number 4) precedes broiled lobster tail (the waiter neatly removes the shell for you). Dinner is followed by the Parade of Chefs and the serving of Baked Alaska (another Holland America tradition). While waiting for the dessert ceremony, we were served a plate of cookies and chocolates to help the time pass.