Sunday, 27 November

Hobart, Tasmania, Australia

After all my activities in Port Arthur yesterday,  I was ready for an early bedtime after dinner. Although I could see many passengers getting off the Westerdam to explore Hobart after we arrived at 7pm, I was content to stay in my stateroom in dreamland.

But today, Sunday, I am ready for a special and exciting trip to MONA (Museum of Old and New Art). It would take me too long to give my readers the full story of MONA. If you wish to learn more about this extraordinary and controversial museum, check it out by pasting the following website in your browser (it's not an automic link): https://www.mona.net.au/museum

I learned about MONA while I was at home in Tucson doing my research to prepare for this cruise. I was pretty astonished by what I found, so instead of just touring Hobart or doing a shore excursion to various places, I pre-booked MONA instead. The only way to reach MONA (unless you are driving your own car) is by dedicated catamaran ferry from Hobart; the trip upriver takes about 20 minutes (the same coming back). Timed reservations are required for the ferry trips and for entrance to the museum.

Catamaran Ferry Awaits Passengers in Hobart

Leaving Hobart Harbor Behind Us

The River Narrows Close to MONA Ferry Landing

Once reaching the MONA ferry landing, it is necessary to climb 99 steps (and the same number coming down when you leave)--there is no other way! Inside the museum, there are elevators to take you down to/up from the deepest level. There is also an outdoor sculpture garden and places for refreshments.

The museum is the eccentric (and erotic) private art collection of Tasmanian David Walsh. The museum structure extends deeply downward three levels into Tasmanian rock. In many ways the structure is more interesting than most of the artworks, but I will provide some photos (flash is not permitted and some of the spaces are very dark). None of the objects in the museum have identifying labels. You have to download the MONA app on your smartphone to find information about the artist and the work you are looking at.

The Round Glass Elevator Reaches the Bottom Level

Satiric and Erotic Artworks

Don't Ask, Because I Don't Know

Bar Void, on the Lowest Level

Long Corridor with Limestone Walls

Round Interior Doorway and Inner Path

Artwork Panels Line an Interior Curving Wall
(above and below)

This Is Part of a Special Exhibit Called "Cloaca"

And, at Last, a Plastic Sports Car

After my time in the museum, I take a short walk through the sculpture garden.

Wooden Pyramid in Picnic Area

Children's Playground

It's time to descend the 99 steps to board the 12:15 ferry back to Hobart. I share the view from the back open deck with some animal "companions."

As we get closer to Hobart, the scenery changes rapidly from country  bucolic to industrial horror.

View from the Stern

Government House in a Park Close to the City

A Large Industrial Site, Used for Processing Zinc

After leaving the ferry and the dock, I take a short walk to see what is of interest in the city itself. Not much! It soon starts to rain, so I do a quick walk back to the Cruise Port and the Westerdam.

Just before sailing at 5pm today, the Captain announces that the coming day-and-a-half to Adelaide will be very rough--the fault of two lows moving into the area. So I use my cane when I am walking about the ship, since it would be very easy to fall whenever the Westerdam rocks from part to starboard and back again.

Although this is somewhat rougher than the crossing from Auckland to Sydney (last week), with gale-force winds and seas approaching nine feet. We are scheduled to arrive in Adelaide tomorrow afternoon at 2pm, and then spend an overnight with next-day departure at 11pm. Hopefully the weather will improve and the waves will get smaller.

Saturday, 26 November

Port Arthur, Tasmania, Australia

Welcome to Tasmania, southernmost state in Australia, an island separated from the rest of the country/continent, "discovered" by Abel Tasman (from Holland), and home to the infamous Tasmanian Devils. No, not an Australian football team, but nasty little animals that have recently become endangered because of disease that spreads so quickly through the packs. If you aren't planning a trip here, you can see these little buggers at the San Diego Zoo.

The Westerdam is anchored in Carnarvon Bay, close to Port Arthur's most important historical site:  The Penitentiary of 1857 and the surrounding buildings and grounds, covering about 100 acres. 

After room-service breakfast, I stop by Shore Excursions to get an ID sticker for my afternoon tour, which has been moved up to 11:30am, since the captain expects heavy winds later in the day, and intends to sail the short distance to Hobart two hours earlier than planned. (Although the winds never materialize, the Westerdam still departs from Port Arthur at 3:30 rather than 5:30pm.) With my sticker I will be able to join the tour directly from the Port Arthur Historical Site, rather than returning to the ship for the official meeting on board.

As a four-star Mariner on HAL I receive expedited entry to the tender and I am off the ship by 8:30am. (One of the few useful privileges besides free laundry and pressing.)

Port Arthur Historical Site has been beautifully maintained and provided with excellent signposts and information:

The Penitentiary Building (1857)

The Penitentiary Building (1857), with Law Courts (1846) Behind 

Guard Towers (1835)
(above and below)

Commandant's House (1853-56)

Rear View of Law Courts and Penitentiary

Floral Display

The Church (1837)

After a quick lunch and coffee at the visitor center, I am ready to board the coach for my 11:30am three-hour shore excursion: Geological Panoramas of the Peninsula. This tour visits several remarkable sites along the bay and sea coasts of the southeastern peninsula of Tasmania.

Tasman's Arch (above and below)

The Devil's Kitchen

We pass through the tiny town of "Doo" where all the beach houses and business have added "doo" to their names and signs, such as "Dr Doo-little," "Dirigy Doo," "Doo Drop," and the snack caravan below:

The coach returns to the tender landing dock at the Penitentiary Historic Site and ten minutes later we are back on board Westerdam as she sets sail for the three-hour journey to Hobart, where we will spend the night and all day tomorrow.

As we sail out of the bay and round the end of the peninsula, I get a close-up look at the incredible limestone rock formations, millions of years old, from my starboard veranda:

I have had a very active day since leaving the Westerdam early this morning, so after dinner I am ready for an early bed-time. Tomorrow is another day in Hobart and I have big plans for the morning hours.

 Friday, 25 November

Sailing to Tasmania, Australia

Since today is a sea day as the Westerdam sails from the Emerald Coast south to Tasmania for a two-day visit, I will provide some data from the first 23 days of my journey, including 16 days on the ship so far—before an account of my day in Eden (a’den) and Merimbula.

# photos / videos taken = 1,522

# photos posted on LFLatSea = 266

Which means I have many more photos and videos to share with anyone interested. Of course, some of these are duplicates or of poor quality. They will eventually be deleted.

Fitbit Results

# steps walked per day / location 

Day 01: Tucson to LA / 6,248 steps / 0 floors / 2.81 miles 

Day 02: In Transit

Day 03: Arrive Sydney / 6,479 steps / 5 floors / 2.81 miles 

Day 04: Sydney / 18,538 steps / 9 floors / 8.46 miles 

Day 05: Sydney / 21,852 steps / 13 floors / 9.97 miles

Day 06: Sydney / 22,536 steps / 33 floors / 10.27 miles

Day 07: Leave Sydney / 22,473 steps / 33 floors / 10.26 miles

Day 08: At Sea / 18,538 steps / 9 floors / 8.46 miles

Nov 09: At Sea / 15,237 steps / 23 floors / 6.91 miles

Nov 10: At Sea / 6,938 steps / 66 floors / 3.16 miles

Nov 11: Milford Sound / 9,739 steps / 67 floors / 4.43 miles

Nov 12: Dunedin / 11,065 steps / 9 floors / 5.01 miles

Nov 13: Christchurch / 9,096 steps / 3 floors / 4.12 miles

Nov 14: Wellington / 20,681 steps / 12 floors / 9.44 miles

Nov 15: Wellington / 9,146 steps / 5 floors / 4.17 miles

Nov 16: Napier / 12,388 steps / 2 floors / 5.63 miles

Nov 17: Gisborne / 10,302 steps / 11 floors / 4.68 miles

Nov 18: Tauranga / 9,922 steps / 6 floors / 4.52 miles

Nov 19: Tauranga / 17,736 steps / 14 floors / 8.08 miles

Nov 20: Auckland / 16,513 steps / 5 floors / 7.5 miles

Nov 21: At Sea / 6,025 steps / 36 floors / 2.74 miles

Nov 22: At Sea / 5,098 steps / 29 floors / 2.29 miles

Nov 23: Sydney / 18,658 steps / 15 floors / 8.50 miles

Nov 24: Eden / 12,913 steps / 14 floors / 5.88 miles

New Zealand Impressions

Besides the various beauties of the landscapes, the friendliness of the people and the number of sheep, I was most impressed by how far New Zealand has advanced to a cashless society (Australia as well, but a little less so than NZ). It is difficult to find a business or service that is willing to take cash, even for the smallest amounts--sometimes even less than two or three dollars. Credit cards do everything, even on public transportation. In both countries, you tap your credit card on an electronic reader before getting on, and then tap again after you get off--that's it!

I have hardly used any of the NZ$ or A$ that I brought with me and will have to trade them back for US$ before I leave for home.

Holland America Impressions

I am saddened to have to report my disappointment with HAL. The food is well-prepared and usually hot, but the choices have become very limited and no longer served with the flair of the past, even in the Main Dining Room, where I have a solo table reserved for me every evening at 7:45. On past cruises I wouldn’t be finished before 9:15 on most nights. On this cruise I am usually finished in 45 minutes at most. Yes, it is efficient and the serving people are friendly and helpful, but the whole experience has changed. Call me a snob (snob!), but pleasant, extended dinners are one of my great pleasures when sailing.

HAL has also become very de-personalized. If you wish to do something on the ship or a shore excursion; if you wish to find out any information, or make any reservations—it all gets done on your smartphone. In fact, it isn’t easy finding any staff to engage with.

But the worst? It feels like I am on a 28-day shopping trip. There are a few activities of interest—a retired linguist gave a talk about how languages change today—but 2/3 of every day’s activities are about buying things. And the other 1/3 involve physical exertion. I know cruise lines lost a lot of money during Covid, but the constant nickel-and-dimeing for everything outside the dining venues—including paying for water—is really too much.

Last November when Covid was a much bigger problem, I cruised for 16 days on Oceania, from Rome to Miami. Other than special precautions for Covid, including a reduced population, everything was the same as pre-Covid. But Carnival, which owns HAL and 10 other major cruise lines, is desperate to make up their loss.

And another almost worst:  no more chocolates on your pillow at night unless you make a special request. And then a few days later the room steward conveniently forgets your request. (Snob! Snob!)

There are other deficiencies as well, but I will save them for later. It’s a good thing I am enjoying the ports.

Thursday, 24 Nov 2022 

Eden and Merimbula, NSW, Australia

The Westerdam docks in Eden on another beautiful morning. Eden and Merimbula, 28k north, are small bay-front towns notable for oyster harvesting and hosting summer vacationers. Neither town has much of cultural or historical significance. But it is nice to visit places outside the large cities. So here are some photos:

Views of Eden

View from My Veranda as Westerdam Docks in Eden

On the Shuttle from the Port to the Town

Traditional Eden Residential Architecture

Restored Australasia Hotel

Views of Twofold Bay from Eden Lookout
(above and below)

Views of Merimbula

Mural Outside Public Toilets

After my day on the Emerald Coast I return to a very nice Thanksgiving Dinner on board the Westerdam as we sail toward Tasmania. I'll post some food pictures next time.