LFL AT SEA

Thursday, 30 October 2025
Rhodes Island, Dodecanese, Greece

Today we visit the large and popular island of Rhodes, capital of the Dodecanese archipelago. We have both been here before. In May 1993 I spent four days here after flying in from visits to Athens, Mykonos, and Santorini. I returned on cruises in April 2015 and November 2017 (with Will).

Rhodes is located in the eastern Aegean Sea. It is famous for its medieval Old Town, the largest inhabited medieval town in Europe. Since we already know the city well, we are taking a shore excursion, "Panoramic Rhodes," that will give us a five-hour tour of other parts of the island, including the ancient site of Lindos, halfway down the west coast.

Cruise ships dock right outside the gates of the walled city.

Our tour begins with a ride through the more modern 19th- and 20th-century urbanization outside the walls, with mid-level buildings constructed in fascist-style by Italians who took over the island. But we soon reach the northernmost point of the island and begin our drive south along the western coast, lined with fine beaches and expensive hotels.

Interestingly, all hotels here are owned by local families; you won't find any Hiltons or Marriotts on the island.

In about 30 minutes we reach the small town of Lindos, situated under the ancient Acropolis (restored by the Italians in the 1960s).

In classical times the Acropolis of Lindos was dominated by the massive temple of Athena Lindia, which attained its final form around 300 BC. In Hellenistic and Roman times the temple precinct grew as more buildings were added. In early medieval times these buildings fell into disuse, and in the 14th century they were partly overlaid by a large fortress built on the acropolis by the Knights of St John to defend the island against the Ottomans.

Our tour brings us to a pleasant cafe outside the town for refreshments. We can view the Acropolis, but we will not be making the arduous climb up the steps to reach the summit. In 1993, I visited the Acropolis by riding a donkey half way up and then ascending a frightful set of stairs, and then walking all the way down.

Photo from May 1993

After our refreshments we drive up along the eastern coast of the island, stopping at a pottery studio for a demonstration of the art and an opportunity to shop.

We don't buy anything because the plate in the middle of the above picture is a duplicate of one I purchased on a previous trip to Greece which now sits in a glass cabinet in our apartment in Tucson.

We do stop for a photo taken by a fellow passenger from Pennsylvania.

The drive takes us back to the walls of the Old Town and the gangway of the Encore. Will reboards the ship, but I walk the short distance to the Gate of the Virgin, and enter the Old Town in search of an authentic chicken souvlaki sandwich for lunch. Along the way I pause for photos at familiar sights.

After this long day of touring, we have our first reserved dinner in Solis, the specialty Mediterranean restaurant, where the service is even more polished than in the Restaurant.