Tuesday, 18 November 2025
Ceuta, Spanish Morocco 

Spain has two political enclaves carved out of the Mediterranean coast of Morocco, Ceuta (sway-ta) and Melilla. Will and I have now visited both of them. We stopped in Melilla in spring 2024 on a previous Seabourn cruise. I am always amazed that Spain makes a very big deal about the British occupation of Gibraltar but seems perfectly content with continuing their own presence in North Africa. Compared to Melilla, which is an exciting place to spend time, Ceuta is a bit of a bore for the tourist, although I am told that the shopping is very good for visiting Europeans. Like Melilla, Ceuta follows the rules of Spain and the European Union, and the euro is the primary currency.

Since I thoroughly enjoyed our shore excursion in Melilla, I have signed up for a three-hour tour of Ceuta. Will decides to avoid the walking and to stay on board the Encore.

The approach by sea--the only way to reach the city without going through the hassles of the Moroccan border--is quite pretty, especially with the clouds hovering over the nearby mountains.

The tour begins with a 20-minute bus ride to an old fortress above the city. The view is very nice, but the fortress is part of the military headquarters and cannot be visited.

We head back down to the Maritime Park, which is empty and devoid of interest since the tourist season is over. One lonely cat is hanging about a series of empty pools.

We are given some free time to explore the main shopping street in the center of town. It is an attractive thoroughfare with expensive shops and elaborate Christmas decorations.

The "Pillars of Hercules" stands against the harbor at the bottom end of the street.

At the top of the streets stands Nuestra Señora de Africa (17th cent), with a strikingly brilliant altar.

Beyond the city walls a deep green moat further separates the old and new towns. A walk along the moat and fortress brings us back to our bus and the brief ride back to the ship.