I know it has taken me longer than usual to get this blog going, but I hope you are still with me because I will be visiting many beautiful ports, having already been to Messina and Malta. I am enjoying a sea day at last to catch my breath and catch up on all the usual travel chores.  It has been a messy start to the cruise and my opinion of Holland America has sunk quite a bit--but more of that later.

Tuesday, 14 April
Fiumincino to Civitivecchia

After an ample buffet breakfast at the Golden Tulip Hotel, the shuttle bus takes me quickly back to the airport.  The trouble begins when there are no HAL personnel to meet me at the airport. I was told they would be at the arrivals hall from 6:30am, but there is none in sight when I arrive at 8:15.  And no one at 8:30, 9:00, 9:30, 10:00am, and I start to get a little concerned about getting to the port, which is a good 45 minutes away.  So even though I prepaid HAL for the shuttle, I decide to move forward on my own.  A private car is the only last-minute option available, although it costs more Euros than I spent for last night's hotel.  I will admit that the ride is quite smooth and takes me right to the cruiseport door.  But as you can imagine, I am not in very good spirits, and the more than one hour delay in boarding the Zuiderdam doesn't lighten my mood.

Once on board I head for the Mariner's welcome lunch in the main dining room: fresh fruit salad with yogurt-vinaigrette dressing, warm cream of broccoli soup (great taste, but too much salt), angel hair pasta with roasted vegetables and plump cherry tomatoes. Unlike in the Lido Buffet, the Dining Room does not observe special health rules during the first 48 hours.  Passengers are informed that there have been reports of both the flu and the infamous gastrointestinal virus floating around the ports we are visiting, but so far not on this ship.

Tuesday Afternoon

After lunch I begin the arduous task of unpacking.  The cabin is quite adequate for one person, but there is certainly not enough storage to carry four passengers, for which the cabin is advertised. And the standard rule certainly applies here:  the larger the ship, the smaller the cabins.  I'm used to sailing on HAL's smaller ships, holding from 800-1400 passengers.  The Zuiderdam carries 1900. 

At 3:00 the required safety and lifeboat drill, now with electronic attendance recording, goes very quickly.  The sail-away at 4:30 includes FREE drinks and snacks, which is a nice change back to earlier cruises, but, strangely, there is no live music.

Tuesday Evening

I plan to attend the LGBT social at 7pm, but my nap lasts a littler longer than planned, so at 7:15 it is time to spruce up for dinner at 8.  I have my requisite table for one on the second level of the dining room, next to the glass railing that looks down upon the first floor.  The head table steward, Dana, an amiable and unmarried young man from Bali, and his assistant, look very promising. I set up my usual dinner ritual that begins with a chilled bottle of Pellegrino on the table.  I will probably order a wine package (since I get a 50% discount), but tonight I start off with a glass of Chandon Moët Dry California Champagne.  Dinner is excellent: prosciutto with cantaloupe and arugula in a balsamic drip; Caesar salad; and prime rib--perfectly prepared--with baked potato and al dente vegetables.  Dessert is simple but satisfying vanilla ice cream.

But then the troubles begin:  My television has a large crack crossing the screen, the safe in the closet is locked and can't be opened and the newly-installed toilet is broken.  All this on a ship that has just come out of a $5 million upgrade!  Someone needs to get a better inspection team.

But enough for my troubles; hopefully they will be resolved quickly. If not, they will be publicized widely and loudly.  But as I end my day I would rather hope that tomorrow will be better as we sail to our first port, Messina, on the island of Sicily.

Golden Tulip Hotel, Rome Airport