LFL AT SEA

Sailing away from the small city of Nafplion, on the coast of Sparta, almost directly across the large peninsula from Katakolon, yesterday's port. I spent an overnight here in Spring 1993 and the town looks much the same, although there seems to be more cars and luxury watch stores. But I return now to one of the highlights of the first half of the cruise.

Monday, 20 July 2015
Dubrovnik, Croatia
The Zuiderdam docks under the Dubrovnik suspension bridge at 10am (it's nice to have the chance for a late wake-up). But since Will and I visited in 2010, I elect for an all-day tour that takes me up the magnificent Croatian and Bosnian coasts, then turns inland into Herzegovina (the southern part of Bosnia-Herzogovina), heading toward Mostar, which has many claims to fame. First, it is the most historic city in the Balkans, although it was brutally bombed during the war 23 years ago. Second, it is beautifully situated along the Mostar River, under snow-capped mountains. Third, during the summer it often records the highest temperature in Europe. But today the sun is shining and the weather is moderate and although the drive is long, we pass a dizzying array of different landscapes. From Croatia we pass the border into Bosnia for seven km of coastline, then pass back into Croatia and turn inland, later again passing into Bosnia--where the bus is held up for 30 minutes while the small town petty beaureaucrats check every passport. Since there are only 23 of us, the guide tells us we are lucky. Sometimes it takes up to 90 minutes at this particular crossing.

Shortly after the border checkpoint, we make a brief stop for coffee and restrooms in Numm, Bosnia. We stop in Bosnia rather than Croatia, because Bosnians will accept all kinds of currencies. Because Croatia is a member of the EU, but not yet using Euros, it is strictly forbidden to using anything other than Kunas, the official Croatian currency (dont ask me to explain the reasons). We next stop for a short visit to a village just north of Metkovic, in Herzegovena province, a place that exists solely for tourists to take pictures. But it is indeed quite authentic and quite photogenic.

It's a long drive from Dubrovnik to Mostar--almost four hours--but we pass thruogh such an incredible variety of landscapes that it is never boring. The Dalmatian Coast is magnificent and serene. The highway curves around low mountains and each turn revelas new islands in the Adriatic and bays and beaches carved tinto the shore. When we turn inland toward Bosnia-H, we are greeted by a high range of snow-capped mountains, with heavily irrigated farmlands in the valleys--this area is known as California Croatia. We finally reach Mostar at 2pm, incredibly one hour ahead of schedule, and begin our one-hour guided tour (although a stop for lunch at this point would be nice).

Mostar has been faithfully restored to its late Roman and early Medieval appearance. There is only one street that runs through the Old City and crosses the river on the famous reconstructed Old Bridge. The streets are cobblestones and the walk is slippery but the atmosphere is convincing, especially as we visit a small mosque (with magnificent backyard views of the Old Bridge) and the two-story home of a well-to-do Turkish family. I am too famished by now to hang on for the tour farewell, so I quickly duck out and backtrack to a restaurant I spied on the way for a terrace lunch of mixed salad and veal brochettes with rice pilaf and french fries. Like most of the off-ship restaurants I have visited the portions are huge and the food quite tasty and the prices very moderate.

The return bus ride covers the same route, with the same border crossings, six in all. We arrive back at the pier shortly before 8pm. Several passengers choose to go into the city of Dubrovnik for several hours (the Zuiderdam doesn't depart until midnight), but I head for the dining room on the ship.